Frommer's Portable Vancouver (Frommer's Portable) - PDF Free Download (2024)

P O R T A B L E

Vancouver 3rd Edition

by Donald Olson

Here’s what critics say about Frommer’s: “Amazingly easy to use. Very portable, very complete.” —Booklist

“Detailed, accurate, and easy-to-read information for all price ranges.” —Glamour Magazine

P O R T A B L E

Vancouver 3rd Edition

by Donald Olson

Here’s what critics say about Frommer’s: “Amazingly easy to use. Very portable, very complete.” —Booklist

“Detailed, accurate, and easy-to-read information for all price ranges.” —Glamour Magazine

Published by:

WILEY PUBLISHING, INC. 111 River St. Hoboken, NJ 07030-5774 Copyright © 2005 Wiley Publishing, Inc., Hoboken, New Jersey. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording, scanning or otherwise, except as permitted under Sections 107 or 108 of the 1976 United States Copyright Act, without either the prior written permission of the Publisher, or authorization through payment of the appropriate per-copy fee to the Copyright Clearance Center, 222 Rosewood Drive, Danvers, MA 01923, 978/750-8400, fax 978/646-8600. Requests to the Publisher for permission should be addressed to the Legal Department, Wiley Publishing, Inc., 10475 Crosspoint Blvd., Indianapolis, IN 46256, 317/572-3447, fax 317/ 572-4355, E-Mail: [emailprotected]. Wiley and the Wiley Publishing logo are trademarks or registered trademarks of John Wiley & Sons, Inc. and/or its affiliates. Frommer’s is a trademark or registered trademark of Arthur Frommer. Used under license. All other trademarks are the property of their respective owners. Wiley Publishing, Inc. is not associated with any product or vendor mentioned in this book. ISBN 0-7645-7790-5 Editor: Aliyah Vinikoor Production Editor: M. Faunette Johnston Photo Editor: Richard Fox Cartographer: Roberta Stockwell Production by Wiley Indianapolis Composition Services For information on our other products and services or to obtain technical support, please contact our Customer Care Department within the U.S. at 800/762-2974, outside the U.S. at 317/572-3993 or fax 317/572-4002. Wiley also publishes its books in a variety of electronic formats. Some content that appears in print may not be available in electronic formats. Manufactured in the United States of America 5

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Contents 1

List of Maps

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Planning Your Trip to Vancouver

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1 Visitor Information & Entry Requirements . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .1 2 Money . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .6 3 When to Go . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .7 Vancouver Calendar of Events . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8 4 Specialized Travel Resources . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .14 5 Getting There . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .16 Frommers.com: The Complete Travel Resource . . . . . . . . . . .21

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Getting to Know Vancouver

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1 Orientation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .22 The Neighborhoods in Brief . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .23 2 Getting Around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .29 Fast Facts: Vancouver . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .32

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Where to Stay in Vancouver 1 2 3 4

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Bed & Breakfast Registries . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .36 Downtown & Yaletown . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .37 The West End . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .50 The West Side . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .57 The North Shore (North Vancouver & West Vancouver) . . . . .61

Where to Dine in Vancouver 1 2 3 4 5 6 7

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Downtown & Yaletown . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .64 Gastown & Chinatown . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .74 The West End . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .77 The West Side . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .83 The East Side . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .91 The North Shore . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .93 Coffee, Sweets & Ice Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .95 Caffeine Nation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .96

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Exploring Vancouver

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Sightseeing Suggestions . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .98 1 The Top Attractions . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .99 Granville’s Greatest Hits . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .107 The Other Suspension Bridge . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .113 2 Vancouver’s Plazas & Parks . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .113 3 Especially for Kids . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .117 4 Organized Tours . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .122 5 Outdoor Activities . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .126 6 Spectator Sports . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .139

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Vancouver Shopping

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1 The Shopping Scene . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .141 2 Shopping A to Z . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .142

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Vancouver After Dark 1 2 3 4 5 6

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The Performing Arts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .158 Laughter & Music . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .163 Bars, Pubs & Other Watering Holes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .165 Dance Clubs . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .169 Gay & Lesbian Bars . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .171 Other Diversions . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .173

Index

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General Index . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .175 Accommodations Index . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .181 Restaurant Index . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .181

List of Maps Vancouver Neighborhoods 24 Where to Stay in Downtown Vancouver 38 Where to Dine in Downtown Vancouver 66

Where to Dine in Kitsilano & the West Side 84 Downtown Vancouver Attractions 100 Stanley Park 103

ABOUT THE AUTHOR Donald Olson is a novelist, playwright, and travel writer. He has published several novels, most recently The Confessions of Aubrey Beardsley and, under the pen name Swan Adamson, My Three Husbands and Confessions of a Pregnant Princess. His plays have been staged in Europe and the U.S. Donald Olson’s travel stories have appeared in The New York Times, Travel + Leisure, Sunset, National Geographic books, and many other publications. He is the author of Frommer’s Vancouver & Victoria, England For Dummies (winner of the 2002 Lowell Thomas Travel Writing Award for Best Guidebook), London For Dummies, Germany For Dummies, Frommer’s London from $90 a Day, Frommer’s Portable London from $90 A Day, and Frommer’s Irreverent Guide to London.

AN INVITATION TO THE READER In researching this book, we discovered many wonderful places—hotels, restaurants, shops, and more. We’re sure you’ll find others. Please tell us about them, so we can share the information with your fellow travelers in upcoming editions. If you were disappointed with a recommendation, we’d love to know that, too. Please write to: Frommer’s Portable Vancouver, 3rd Edition Wiley Publishing, Inc. • 111 River St. • Hoboken, NJ 07030-5774

AN ADDITIONAL NOTE Please be advised that travel information is subject to change at any time— and this is especially true of prices. We therefore suggest that you write or call ahead for confirmation when making your travel plans. The authors, editors, and publisher cannot be held responsible for the experiences of readers while traveling. Your safety is important to us, however, so we encourage you to stay alert and be aware of your surroundings. Keep a close eye on cameras, purses, and wallets, all favorite targets of thieves and pickpockets.

FROMMER’S STAR RATINGS, ICONS & ABBREVIATIONS Every hotel, restaurant, and attraction listing in this guide has been ranked for quality, value, service, amenities, and special features using a star-rating system. In country, state, and regional guides, we also rate towns and regions to help you narrow down your choices and budget your time accordingly. Hotels and restaurants are rated on a scale of zero (recommended) to three stars (exceptional). Attractions, shopping, nightlife, towns, and regions are rated according to the following scale: zero stars (recommended), one star (highly recommended), two stars (very highly recommended), and three stars (must-see). In addition to the star-rating system, we also use seven feature icons that point you to the great deals, in-the-know advice, and unique experiences that separate travelers from tourists. Throughout the book, look for: Finds

Special finds—those places only insiders know about

Fun Fact

Fun facts—details that make travelers more informed and their trips more fun

Kids

Best bets for kids and advice for the whole family

Moments

Special moments—those experiences that memories are made of

Overrated

Places or experiences not worth your time or money

Tips

Insider tips—great ways to save time and money

Value

Great values—where to get the best deals

The following abbreviations are used for credit cards: AE American Express DISC Discover DC Diners Club MC MasterCard

V Visa

FROMMERS.COM Now that you have the guidebook to a great trip, visit our website at www. frommers.com for travel information on more than 3,000 destinations. With features updated regularly, we give you instant access to the most current trip-planning information available. At Frommers.com, you’ll also find the best prices on airfares, accommodations, and car rentals—and you can even book travel online through our travel booking partners. At Frommers. com, you’ll also find the following: • • • •

Online updates to our most popular guidebooks Vacation sweepstakes and contest giveaways Newsletter highlighting the hottest travel trends Online travel message boards with featured travel discussions

1 Planning Your Trip to Vancouver I

t’s no wonder Vancouver has gained international buzz for its urban sophistication and seductive lifestyle. The city, hugged by jagged mountain peaks, sandy beaches, and clear blue waters, also has a downtown that boasts a world-class shopping and restaurant scene. This is a place where people want to live. Where else can you ski in the morning and sail in the afternoon? Or stumble upon your favorite movie stars shooting in this veritable “Hollywood North”? Or get a taste of the Far East without ever leaving the Western mainland? And with the Winter Olympics coming in 2010, Vancouver’s free-spirited magnificence is about to be broadcast the world over, so you’d better get here fast, before the whole world discovers how seductive it really is. Whether you’re visiting Vancouver for business or shopping, dining or dancing, beach walking or backwoods trekking, or all of the above, here are some tips to help you plan your trip.

1 Visitor Information & Entry Requirements VISITOR INFORMATION Tourism Vancouver’s Tourist Info Centre, 200 Burrard St., Vancouver, BC V6C 3L6 (& 604/682-2222; www.tourismvancouver. com), can help you with everything from booking accommodations to making suggestions for what to see and do. If you’re planning to spend time outside the city, you may also wish to call or write the Vancouver Coast and Mountains Tourism Region, 250–1508 W. 2nd Ave., Vancouver, BC V6J 1H2 (& 800/ 667-3306 or 604/739-9011; www.vcmbc.com). For travel information on Vancouver Island and the Gulf Islands, contact the Tourism Association of Vancouver Island, 203–335 Wesley St., Nanaimo, BC V9R 2T5 (& 250/754-3500; www.seetheislands.com). For cultural information, check out the website for Vancouver Magazine at www.vanmag.com. The website www.allianceforarts.

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com provides an extensive weekly events calendar and pages of information on the arts in Vancouver. Also check out www.mybc. com for a wide range of Vancouver events, nightclubs, shopping, and sports.

ENTRY REQUIREMENTS If you’re driving from Seattle, you’ll need to clear Customs at the Peace Arch crossing (open 24 hr.) in Blaine, Washington. You’ll pass through Canadian Customs (& 800/461-9999 within Canada or 204/983-3500) to enter Canada, and U.S. Customs (& 360/3325771) on your departure. If you fly directly into Vancouver International Airport from another country, you’ll go through Customs in the new International Terminal. Once you clear passport control, you and your luggage will go through Customs before you leave the terminal. (Even if you don’t have anything to declare, Customs officials randomly select a few passengers and search their luggage.) Visitors arriving by ferry from the U.S. pass through U.S. Customs before boarding and Canadian Customs upon arrival. For an up-to-date country-by-country listing of passport requirements around the world, go to the “Foreign Entry Requirement” Web page of the U.S. State Department at www.travel.state.gov/ foreignentryreqs. DOCUMENTS FOR U.S. CITIZENS

Bring your passport! U.S. citizens or permanent U.S. residents need to show proof of citizenship and residence to enter Canada. Note: Border security has been increased and there is still some confusion and conflicting information as to what constitutes proper identification. A valid U.S. passport is now required to enter Canada. A driver’s license is no longer considered sufficient, although some border agents may accept a driver’s license (don’t count on this, however). Naturalized citizens should carry their naturalization certificates. U.S. citizens don’t require visas to enter Canada. Permanent U.S. residents who are not U.S. citizens should carry their passports and Resident Alien Card (U.S. form I-151 or I-551). Foreign students and other noncitizen U.S. residents should carry their passports or a Temporary Resident Card (form 1688) or Employment Authorization Card (1688A or 1688B), a visitor’s visa, I-94 Arrival-Departure Record, a current I-20 copy of IAP-66 indicating student status, proof of sufficient funds for a temporary stay, evidence of return transportation, and possibly a visitor’s visa. Note: With changing security regulations, it is advisable for all travelers to

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check with the Canadian consulate before departure to find out the latest in travel document requirements. You will also find current information on the Canada Border Services Agency website, www.cbsa-asfc.gc.ca; follow the links under “FAQ.” If you’re bringing children into Canada, you must have proof of legal guardianship. Lack of it can cause long delays at the border because there have been cases of parents involved in custody cases abducting their children and attempting to flee to Canada (despite the fact that the Canadian and U.S. governments cooperate closely to resolve matters of this sort). If you’re under 18 and not accompanied by a parent or guardian, you should bring a permission letter signed by your parent or legal guardian allowing you to travel to Canada. Visitors arriving by ferry from the U.S. must fill out International Crossing forms, which are collected before boarding. D O C U M E N T S F O R C O M M O N W E A LT H C I T I Z E N S

Citizens of Great Britain, Australia, and New Zealand don’t require visas to enter Canada, but they do need to show proof of commonwealth citizenship (such as a passport), as well as evidence of funds sufficient for a temporary stay (credit cards work well here). Naturalized citizens should carry their naturalization certificates. Permanent residents of commonwealth nations should carry their passports and resident status cards. Foreign students and other residents should carry their passports or temporary resident cards or employment authorization cards, a visitor’s visa, arrival-departure record, a current copy of student status, proof of sufficient funds for a temporary stay, evidence of return transportation, and possibly a visitor’s visa. Note: With changing security regulations, it is advisable for all travelers to check with the Canadian consulate before departure to find out the latest in travel document requirements. You will also find current information on the Canada Border Services Agency website, www.cbsa-asfc.gc.ca; follow the links under “FAQ.”

CUSTOMS REGULATIONS Your personal baggage can include the following: boats, motors, snowmobiles, camping and sports equipment, appliances, TV sets, musical instruments, personal computers, cameras, and other items of a personal or household nature. If you are bringing excess luggage, be sure to carry a detailed inventory list that includes the acquisition date, serial number, and cost or replacement value of each item. It sounds tedious, but it can speed things up at the border.

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Customs will help you fill in the forms that allow you to temporarily bring in your effects. This list will also be used by U.S. Customs to check off what you bring out. You will be charged Customs duties for anything left in Canada. Here are a few other things to keep in mind: • If you bring more than US$10,000 (about C$13,300) in cash, you must file a transaction report with U.S. Customs. • Never joke about carrying explosives, drugs, or other contraband unless you want to have your bags and person searched in detail, plus face arrest for conspiracy. Remember, Canada is a foreign country. The officials don’t have to let you in. • Some prescription medicines may be considered contraband across the border. If you’re bringing any, it’s best to check with your doctor and bring a copy of your prescription, or contact the Canadian Customs Office (& 800/461-9999 within Canada or 204/983-3500). • If you’re over 18, you’re allowed to bring in 40 ounces of liquor and wine or 24 12-ounce cans or bottles of beer and ale, and 50 cigars, 400 cigarettes, or 14 ounces of manufactured tobacco per person. Any excess is subject to duty. • Gifts not exceeding C$60 (US$45) and not containing tobacco products, alcoholic beverages, or advertising material can be brought in duty-free. Meats, plants, and vegetables are subject to inspection on entry. There are restrictions, so contact the Canadian Consulate for more details if you want to bring produce into the country, or check the Canada Border Services Agency website, www.cbsa-asfc.gc.ca. • If you plan to bring your dog or cat, you must provide proof of rabies inoculation during the preceding 36-month period. Other types of animals need special clearance and health certification. (Many birds, for instance, require 8 weeks in quarantine.) • If you need more information concerning items you wish to bring in and out of the country, contact the Canadian Customs Office (& 800/461-9999 within Canada or 204/9833500). You can also find information on the Canada Border Services Agency website, www.cbsa-asfc.gc.ca. W H AT YO U C A N TA K E H O M E F R O M C A N A D A

Returning U.S. citizens who have been away for at least 48 hours are allowed to bring back, once every 30 days, US$800 (about C$1,067) worth of merchandise duty-free. You’ll be charged a flat

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rate of 4% duty on the next US$1,000 (about C$1,330) worth of purchases. Be sure to have your receipts handy. On mailed gifts, the duty-free limit is US$200 (about C$267). With some exceptions, you cannot bring fresh fruits and vegetables into the United States. For specifics on what you can bring back, download the invaluable free pamphlet Know Before You Go online at www.customs.gov (click on “Travel,” then click on “Know Before You Go Online Brochure”). Or contact the U.S. Customs Service, 1300 Pennsylvania Ave. NW, Washington, DC 20229 (& 877/287-8867) and request the pamphlet. Citizens of the U.K. returning from a non-E.U. country have a Customs allowance of: 200 cigarettes; 50 cigars; 250 grams of smoking tobacco; 2 liters of still table wine; 1 liter of spirits or strong liqueurs (over 22% volume); 2 liters of fortified wine, sparkling wine, or other liqueurs; 60cc (ml) perfume; 250cc (ml) of toilet water; and £145 worth of all other goods, including gifts and souvenirs. People under 17 cannot have the tobacco or alcohol allowance. For more information, contact HM Customs & Excise at & 0845/010-9000 (from outside the U.K., 020/8929-0152), or consult their website at www.hmce.gov.uk. The duty-free allowance in Australia is A$400 or, for those under 18, A$200. Citizens can bring in 250 cigarettes or 250 grams of loose tobacco, and 1,125 milliliters of alcohol. If you’re returning with valuables you already own, such as foreign-made cameras, you should file form B263. A helpful brochure available from Australian consulates or Customs offices is Know Before You Go. For more information, call the Australian Customs Service at & 1300/363263, or log on to www.customs.gov.au. The duty-free allowance for New Zealand is NZ$700. Citizens over 17 can bring in 200 cigarettes, 50 cigars, or 250 grams of tobacco (or a mixture of all three if their combined weight doesn’t exceed 250g); plus 4.5 liters of wine and beer, or 1.125 liters of liquor. New Zealand currency does not carry import or export restrictions. Fill out a certificate of export, listing the valuables you are taking out of the country; that way, you can bring them back without paying duty. Most questions are answered in a free pamphlet available at New Zealand consulates and Customs offices: New Zealand Customs Guide for Travellers, Notice no. 4. For more information, contact New Zealand Customs, The Customhouse, 17–21 Whitmore St., Box 2218, Wellington (& 04/473-6099 or 0800/428-786; www.customs.govt.nz).

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2 Money CURRENCY The Canadian currency system is decimal and resembles both British and U.S. denominations. Canadian monetary units are dollars and cents, with dollar notes issued in different colors. The standard denominations are C$5 (US$3.75), C$10 (US$7.50), C$20 (US$15), C$50 (US$38), and C$100 (US$75). The “loonie” (so named because of the loon on one side) is the C$1 (US75¢) coin that replaced the C$1 bill. A C$2 (US$1.50) coin, called the “toonie” because it’s worth two loonies, has replaced the C$2 bill. Note: If you’re driving, it’s a good idea to have a pocketful of toonies and loonies for parking meters. Banks and other financial institutions offer a standard rate of exchange based on the daily world monetary rate (check www.xe. com/ucc for up-to-the-minute currency conversions). Avoid C$100 bills when exchanging money, as many stores refuse to accept these bills. The best exchange rates can be had by withdrawing funds from bank ATMs (automated teller machines). Hotels will also gladly exchange your notes, but they usually give a slightly lower exchange rate. Almost all stores and restaurants accept American currency, and most will exchange amounts in excess of your dinner check or purchase. However, these establishments are allowed to set their own exchange percentages and generally offer the worst rates of all. The exchange rate between Canadian and U.S. dollars should always be kept in mind. The figures charged in hotels and restaurants in Vancouver are about the same or incrementally higher than in comparable U.S. cities; the cost, even factoring in the loonie’s rapid appreciation in 2003, is about 25% less. Canada, though not as cheap as when the loonie traded at US65¢, remains a bargain.

TRAVELER’S CHECKS Traveler’s checks in Canadian funds are the safest way to carry money and are universally accepted by banks (which may charge a small fee to cash them), larger stores, and hotels. If you are carrying American Express (& 604/669-2813) or Thomas Cook (& 604/ 641-1229) traveler’s checks, you can cash them at the local offices of those companies free of charge.

ATM NETWORKS The easiest and best way to get cash away from home is from an ATM. The Cirrus (& 800/424-7787; www.mastercard.com) and PLUS (& 800/843-7587; www.visa.com) networks span the globe;

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look at the back of your bank card to see which network you’re on, then call or check online for ATM locations at your destination. Be sure you know your personal identification number (PIN) before you leave home and be sure to find out your daily withdrawal limit before you depart. Also keep in mind that many banks impose a fee every time a card is used at a different bank’s ATM, and that fee can be higher for international transactions (up to US$5 or more) than for domestic ones (where they’re rarely more than US$1.50). On top of this, the bank from which you withdraw cash may charge its own fee. The 24-hour PLUS and Cirrus ATM systems are widely available in Vancouver and throughout the rest of British Columbia. The systems convert Canadian withdrawals to your account’s currency within 24 hours, so don’t panic if you call your bank and hear a oneto-one balance immediately after conducting a transaction. Cirrus network cards work at ATMs at BMO Bank of Montreal (& 800/ 555-3000), CIBC (& 800/465-2422), HSBC (& 888/310-4722), Royal Bank (& 800/769-2511), TD Canada Trust (& 866/5678888), and at all other ATMs that display the Cirrus logo. None of these ATM systems provides your current balance. You must know your PIN to access Canadian ATMs.

CREDIT & DEBIT CARDS Major U.S. credit cards are widely accepted in British Columbia, especially American Express, MasterCard, and Visa. British debit cards like Barclay’s Visa debit card are also accepted. Diners Club, Carte Blanche, Discover, JCB, and EnRoute are taken by some establishments, but not as many. The amount spent in Canadian dollars will automatically be converted by your issuing company to your currency when you’re billed—generally at rates that are better than you’d receive for cash at a currency exchange. You can also obtain a PIN on your credit card and use it in many of the ATMs to obtain a cash advance. Please keep in mind that you usually pay interest from the date of withdrawal and often pay a higher service fee than when using a regular ATM card. However, in a pinch, it’s a great backup.

3 When to Go CLIMATE Vancouver gets about 47 inches of rain a year, most of which arrives in the wintertime, when, with a 30-minute drive to the mountains, you can trade the rain for snow. Skiing and snowboarding are

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popular from mid-December until the mountain snowpack melts away in June. Except in Whistler, hotels in the winter are quiet and the restaurants are uncluttered. This is also the time when Vancouver’s cultural scene is at its most active. Around mid-February, the winds begin to slacken, the sun shines a bit more, and the buds on the cherry trees begin to poke their heads out, timid at first, but gaining more confidence with each day until, by the beginning of March, there’s a riot of pink blossoms on every street. By April the azaleas and rhododendrons are in full bloom. The sun comes out, and stays out. From then until the rains close in again in mid-October is prime visiting time for sun junkies. Of course, that’s also when most other visitors arrive.

HOLIDAYS The official British Columbian public holidays are as follows: New Year’s Day, Good Friday, Easter, Easter Monday, Victoria Day (in mid- to late May, the weekend before U.S. Memorial Day), Canada Day (July 1), BC Day (first Mon in Aug), Labour Day (first Mon in Sept), Thanksgiving (in mid-Oct), Remembrance Day (Nov 11), Christmas, and Boxing Day (Dec 26).

VANCOUVER CALENDAR OF EVENTS Festivals held in Vancouver draw millions of visitors each year and reflect an extraordinary diversity of cultures and events. Things may seem a little quiet in the winter and early spring, but that’s because most residents simply head for the ski slopes. Resorts such as Whistler and Blackcomb (& 866/2189690; www.whistlerblackcomb.com) have events happening nearly every weekend. If no contact number or location is given for any of the events listed below, Tourism Vancouver (& 604/682-2222; www.tourismvancouver.com) can provide further details.

January

Polar Bear Swim, English Bay Beach. Thousands of hardy citizens show up in elaborate costumes to take a dip in the icy waters of English Bay. Call & 604/665-3418 for more information, or visit www.city.vancouver.bc.ca. January 1. Annual Bald Eagle Count, Brackendale. Bald eagles gather en masse every winter near Brackendale to feed on salmon. In January 1994, volunteers counted a world-record 3,700 eagles. The count starts at the Brackendale Art Gallery (& 604/898-3333). First Sunday in January. Meet at 9am at the Art Gallery for a guided tour.

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February

Chinese New Year. This is when the Chinese traditionally pay their debts and forgive old grievances to start the new lunar year with a clean slate. Vancouver’s Chinese community launches a 2week celebration, ringing in the new year with firecrackers, dancing dragon parades, and other festivities. Call & 604/415-6322 for information, or visit www.sunbritefestival.com. Usually earlyor mid-February. March

Vancouver Playhouse International Wine Festival. This is a major wine-tasting event featuring the latest international vintages. Each winery sets up a booth where you may try as many varieties as you like. Cheese and pâté are also laid out on strategically placed tables. For more information, call & 604/8733311 or visit www.playhousewinefest.com. Late March or early April. April

Baisakhi Day Parade. The Sikh Indian New Year is celebrated with a colorful parade around Ross Street near Marine Drive and ends with a vegetarian feast at the temple. Contact Khalsa Diwan Gurudwara Temple (& 604/324-2010) for more information. Mid-April. Vancouver Sun Run. This is Canada’s biggest 10K race, featuring over 40,000 runners, joggers, and walkers who race through 10 scenic kilometers (6.2 miles). The run finishes at BC Place Stadium. Call & 604/689-9441 for information or register online at www.sunrun.com. Mid-April. May

Vancouver International Marathon. Runners from all over the world gather here to compete in a run through the streets. For information, call & 604/872-2928 or visit www.vanmarathon. com. First Sunday in May. New Play Festival. Emerging playwrights show off their latest works at Granville Island. Call & 604/685-6228 or visit www.playwrightstheatre.com for more information. Early May. Cloverdale Rodeo, Cloverdale, Surrey. Professional cowboys from all over North America compete in roping, bull and bronco riding, barrel racing, and many other events. There are pony rides for kids, great food, and a country-fair atmosphere. For information, call & 604/576-9461 or visit www.cloverdalerodeo.com. Third week in May.

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International Children’s Festival. Activities, plays, music, and crafts for children are featured at this annual event held in Vanier Park on False Creek. For information, call & 604/708-5655 or visit www.vancouverchildrensfestival.com. Late May or early June. June

VanDusen Flower and Garden Show. Presented at the VanDusen Botanical Garden, 5251 Oak St., at 37th Street (& 604/ 878-9274; www.vandusengarden.org), this is Vancouver’s premier flora gala. Early June. National Aboriginal Day Community Celebration. This event offers the public an opportunity to learn about Canada’s First Nations cultures. Many events take place at the Vancouver Aboriginal Friendship Centre, 1607 E. Hastings at Commercial Street. Call & 604/251-4844 for information. Late June. Alcan Dragon Boat Festival. Watch the races from False Creek’s north shore, where more than 150 local and international teams compete. Four stages of music, dance, and Chinese acrobatics are presented at the Plaza of Nations, 750 Pacific Blvd. For more information, call & 604/683-4707 or visit www.canadadragon boat.com. Third week in June. Vancouver International Jazz Festival. More than 800 international jazz and blues players perform at 25 venues ranging from the Orpheum Theatre to the Roundhouse. Many are free performances. Call the Jazz Hot Line (& 604/872-5200) or visit www.jazzvancouver.com for more information. Late June/early July. Bard on the Beach Shakespeare Festival, Vanier Park. The best backdrop for Shakespeare you will ever see! The Bard’s plays are performed in a tent overlooking English Bay. Three different plays are performed every summer. Call the box office (& 604/ 739-0559) or check www.bardonthebeach.org. Mid-June to late September, Tuesday through Sunday. Festival d’Eté Francophone de Vancouver/Francophone Summer Festival, various venues, includes street festival at West 7th and Granville streets. This is a 4-day festival celebrating French music. Performers often include well-known Quebec artists. Call & 604/736-9806 for information or check www.ccfv.bc.ca. Mid-June. July

Canada Day. Canada Place Pier hosts an all-day celebration that begins with the induction of new Canadian citizens. Music and

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dance are performed outdoors throughout the day. There’s a 21gun salute at noon, precision aerobatics teams perform overhead during the afternoon, and a nighttime fireworks display on the harbor tops off the festivities. Granville Island, Grouse Mountain, and other locations also host Canada Day events. For more information, call & 604/647-7390 or check www.canadadayatcanada palace.com. July 1. Steveston Salmon Festival, Steveston. Steveston celebrates Canada Day with a spectacular parade, marching bands, clowns, a carnival, traditional salmon bake, and more. Call & 604/2776812 for more info, or visit www.tourismrichmond.com. Every July 1. Ecomarine Kayak Marathon. Competitors race sea kayaks in the Georgia Strait’s open waters. The Ecomarine Kayak Centre (& 604/689-7575), at Jericho Beach, hosts the race and can provide details. Mid-July. Harrison Festival of the Arts, Harrison Hot Springs, lower mainland. This arts festival in the Fraser River valley, just east of Vancouver, attracts an array of performing artists from around the world. Call & 604/796-3664 for more information, or visit www.harrisonfestival.com. Second week of July. Dancing on the Edge. Canadian and international dance groups perform modern and classic works at the Firehall Arts Centre and other venues. For information, call & 604/689-0691 or visit www.dancingontheedge.org. Early to mid-July. Vancouver Folk Music Festival. International folk music is performed outdoors at Jericho Beach Park. Contact the Vancouver Folk Music Society at & 604/602-9798 for more information, or visit www.thefestival.bc.ca. Second or third weekend in July. Illuminares, Trout Lake Park. Evening lantern procession circling Trout Lake is a phantasmagoric experience, complete with drums, costumes, fire-breathing apparitions, and lots of elaborate handcrafted lanterns. Various performances start at dusk. For info, call & 604/879-8611 or visit www.publicdreams.org. Third Saturday in July. Molson Indy. Vancouver’s fastest summer event features 3 days of practice, qualifying, and world-class racing action. For information, call & 604/280-INDY; to view the 2.85km/1.8mile circuit or to purchase tickets, visit www.molsonindy.com/ vancouver. Third week in July.

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HSBC Celebration of Light. Three international fireworks companies compete for a coveted title by launching their best displays accompanied by music over English Bay Beach. Don’t miss the big finale on the fourth evening, which attracts as many as 500,000 spectators to the West End. Other prime viewing locations include Kitsilano Beach and Jericho Beach. Call & 604/ 641-1293 for information, or check www.celebration-oflight.com. End of July through first week in August. Caribbean Days Festival, North Vancouver. The Trinidad and Tobago Cultural Society of BC hosts the city’s premier Caribbean event at Waterfront Park in North Vancouver, featuring live music, authentic Caribbean food, arts, crafts, and a parade. For info, call & 604/512-2400 or visit www.caribbeandayfestival. com. Third or fourth weekend in July. Vancouver International Comedy Festival. Comedians from all over Canada and the United States perform at a variety of venues around town. Contact Ticketmaster for tickets at & 604/6830883 or check www.comedyfest.com for more information. Last week of July, first week in August. August

Festival Vancouver. National and international artists perform orchestral, choral, opera, world music, chamber music, and jazz concerts in concert halls throughout Vancouver. For information, call & 604/688-1152 or visit www.festivalvancouver.bc.ca. First 2 weeks in August. Powell Street Festival. An annual festival of Japanese culture includes music, dance, food, and more. Contact the Powell Street Festival Society (& 604/739-9388) for information. First weekend of August. Vancouver Pride Parade. This colorful gay- and lesbian-pride parade covers a route along Denman and Davie streets, beginning at noon. Celebrations at many local gay and lesbian nightclubs take place around town on the same long holiday weekend (BC Day weekend). For more information, contact the Vancouver Pride Society (& 604/687-0955; www.vanpride.bc.ca). First Sunday in August. Abbottsford International Air Show, Abbottsford. Barnstorming stuntmen and precision military pilots fly everything from Sopwith Camels to VTOLs and Stealth Bombers. This is one of the biggest air shows in the world. Call & 604/852-8511 or visit www.abbotsfordairshow.com for more information. Second weekend in August.

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Harmony Arts Festival, West Vancouver. This event highlights the talent of North Shore artists, offering free exhibitions, demonstrations, studio tours, theater, concerts, markets, and workshops. Call & 604/925-7268 or visit www.harmonyarts.net for more information. First 2 weeks of August. Pacific National Exhibition. Offerings at the city’s favorite fair include one of North America’s best all-wooden roller coasters, many other rides, big-name entertainment, and a demolition derby. Special events include livestock demonstrations, logger sports competitions, fashion shows, and a midway. Call & 604/ 253-2311 or visit www.pne.bc.ca for more details. Mid-August to Labor Day. Wooden Boat Festival, Granville Island. This free event is a must for wooden-boat aficionados. Call & 604/688-9622 for more info, or visit www.granvilleisland.com. Last weekend of August. September

Vancouver Fringe Festival. Centered around Granville Island and with venues around the Commercial Drive area (the Havana and the Cultch) and Yaletown’s Roundhouse, the Fringe Festival features more than 500 innovative and original shows performed by over 100 groups from around the world. All plays cost under C$12 (US$9). Call & 604/257-0350 or see www.vancouver fringe.com for more info. First and second week of September. The North Shore Heritage Weekend. A full weekend of walking and boat tours, craft and historic displays, a vintage-car exhibition, and afternoon teas at various locations on the North Shore, from Deep Cove to Horseshoe Bay. Call & 604/9875618 for info. Third weekend in September. Mid-Autumn Moon Festival, Dr. Sun Yat-Sen Garden. This outdoor Chinese celebration includes a lantern festival, storytelling, music, and, of course, moon cakes. For info, call & 604/6623207 or visit www.vancouverchinesegardencom. Early to midSeptember, according to the lunar cycle (15th day of the 8th month of the Chinese calendar). October

Vancouver International Film Festival. This highly respected film festival features 250 new works, revivals, and retrospectives, representing filmmakers from 40 countries. Asian films are particularly well represented. More than 140,000 usually attend. Call & 604/685-0260 or visit www.viff.org for details. Late September and first 2 weeks of October.

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Vancouver International Writers and Readers Festival. Public readings conducted by Canadian and international authors as well as writers’ workshops take place on Granville Island and at other locations in the lower mainland. Call & 604/681-6330 or check www.writersfest.bc.ca for details. Mid-October. Parade of Lost Souls, Grandview Park. A bizarre and intriguing procession takes place around Commercial Drive to honor the dead and chase away bad luck. For more information, call & 604/ 879-8611. Last Saturday of October. November

Remembrance Day. Celebrated throughout Canada, this day commemorates Canadian soldiers who gave their lives in war. Vintage military aircraft fly over Stanley Park and Canada Place, and, at noon, a 21-gun salute is fired from Deadman’s Island. November 11. Christmas Craft and Gift Market, VanDusen Botanical Garden. Popular craft and gift market in a beautiful garden setting. For info, call & 604/878-9274 or check www.vandusengarden. org. November and December. December

Carol Ship Parade of Lights Festival. Harbor cruise ships decorated with colorful Christmas lights sail around English Bay, while onboard guests sip cider and sing their way through the canon of Christmas carols. For more info, call & 604/878-8999 or check out www.carolship.org. Throughout December. Festival of Lights. Throughout December, the VanDusen Botanical Garden is transformed into a magical holiday land with seasonal displays and over 20,000 lights illuminating the garden. Call & 604/878-9274 for info, or visit www.vandusengaden.org. First Night. Vancouver closes its downtown streets for revelers in the city’s New Year’s Eve performing-arts festival and alcohol-free party. Events and venues change from year to year. Contact Tourism Vancouver at & 604/682-2222 for more information, or check their website at www.tourismvancouver.com.

4 Specialized Travel Resources TRAVELERS WITH DISABILITIES Vancouver is one of the most accessible cities in the world. There are more than 14,000 sidewalk wheelchair ramps, and motorized wheelchairs are a common sight in the downtown area. Most major attractions and venues have ramps or level walkways for easy access

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and most hotels have at least partial wheelchair accessibility. Most SkyTrain stations and the SeaBus are wheelchair accessible, and most bus routes are lift-equipped. For more information about accessible public transportation, contact Translink (& 604/9533333; www.translink.bc.ca) for the brochure, Rider’s Guide to Accessible Transit. The government of Canada hosts a comprehensive Persons with Disabilities website (www.accesstotravel.gc.ca) with resources for travelers with disabilities. If you can’t find what you need online, call & 800/465-7735.

FOR GAY & LESBIAN TRAVELERS As of July 8, 2003, British Columbia became one of three Canadian provinces where same-sex couples can wed. As a result, Vancouver has become a favored site for gay and lesbian weddings. Information about the process and a list of marriage license offices and Marriage Commissioners who are able to perform the ceremony are listed on the invaluable www.gayvan.com website. Gay life is centered on two distinctly different neighborhoods— the West End (especially Denman and Davie sts.) and Commercial Drive. The club, bar, and party scene is chronicled in the biweekly gay and lesbian tabloid, Xtra! West, available at cafes, bars, and businesses throughout the West End. The Gay Lesbian Transgendered Bisexual Community Centre, 2–1170 Bute St. (& 604/6845307; www.lgtbcentrevancouver.com), has all kinds of information on events and the current hot spots. Also check out the Vancouver Pride Society website (www.vanpride.bc.ca) for upcoming special events, including the annual Vancouver Pride Parade, held the first weekend in August. The Out on Screen Film Festival is held at the beginning of August; check www.outonscreen.com for more details. You’ll find hotels and restaurants in Vancouver to be generally very gay-friendly. For nightlife options, see “Gay & Lesbian Bars,” in chapter 7. Every year, an estimated 2,500 people from around the world participate in events on and off the slopes during Gay & Lesbian Ski Week at Whistler, located 121km (75 miles) north of Vancouver; for information, go to www.outontheslopes.com.

FOR SENIORS Because BC has the mildest weather in all of Canada, Vancouver has become a haven for older and retired Canadians. Senior travelers often qualify for discounts at hotels and attractions throughout the

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city. Always ask, because you’ll be pleasantly surprised at the number of discounts for which you’re eligible. Discount transit passes for persons over 65 (with proof of age) may be purchased at shops that display a FAREDEALER sign (Safeway, 7-Eleven, and most newsstands). To locate a FareDealer vendor, contact BC Transit (& 604/521-0400). If you’re over 50 and not already a member of AARP (3200 E. Carson, Lakewood, CA 90712; & 800/424-3410; www.aarp.org), consider joining. The AARP card is valuable for additional restaurant and travel bargains throughout North America.

FOR FAMILIES Vancouver is one of the most child-friendly, cosmopolitan cities in the world. Where else would you find a Kids Market that’s filled with children’s stores and is located next to a free water park that’s equipped with water guns and changing rooms? In addition to the standard attractions and sights, you’ll find a lot of adventurous outdoor and free stuff that both you and your kids will enjoy (see “Especially for Kids,” in chapter 5). You may also want to get a copy of Frommer’s Vancouver with Kids (Wiley Publishing, Inc.).

FOR STUDENTS The University of British Columbia (with over 30,000 students) and a number of smaller schools contribute to the enormous student population in Vancouver. Student travelers have a lot of free and inexpensive entertainment options, both day and night. The nightlife scene centers on Yaletown, Granville Street, the West End, and Kitsilano. Pick up a copy of The Georgia Straight to find out what’s happening. Many attractions and theaters offer discounts if you have your student ID with you. While many establishments will accept a school ID, the surest way to obtain student discounts is with an International Student Identity Card (ISIC), which is available to any full-time high school or college student from STA Travel (& 800/781-4040; www.statravel.com), the biggest student travel agency in the world, or from your local campus student society.

5 Getting There BY PLANE Daily direct flights between major U.S. cities and Vancouver International Airport (airport code YVR) are offered by Air Canada (& 888/247-2262; www.aircanada.com), Alaska Airlines (& 800/

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252-7522; www.alaskaair.com), American Airlines (& 800/4337300; www.aa.com), Continental (& 800/231-0856; www. continental.com), Northwest Airlines (& 800/447-4747; www. nwa.com), and United Airlines (& 800/241-6522; www.united. com). Air Canada (& 888/247-2262) operates flights to Vancouver from all major Canadian cities. Cheaper and reaching farther all the time is the no-frills airline WestJet (& 888/WEST-JET or 800/ 538-5696; www.westjet.com). There is an international departure surcharge of C$15 (US$11) per person for international air travelers leaving North America, C$10 (US$7.50) for passengers traveling within North America (including Hawaii and Mexico), and C$5 (US$3.70) for passengers on flights within British Columbia or the Yukon. GETTING THROUGH THE AIRPORT

With the federalization of airport security, security procedures at U.S. airports have become more stable and consistent. Generally, you’ll be fine if you arrive at the airport 11⁄2 hours before a domestic flight and 2 hours before an international flight. To pick up your ticket at the counter, you’ll need to show a current, government-issued photo ID such as a driver’s license or passport (you’ll need a passport to enter Canada). If you’ve got an eticket, print out the official confirmation page—you’ll need to show it at the security checkpoint and your ID at the ticket counter or the gate. (Children under 18 do not need photo IDs for domestic flights, but the adults checking in with them do.) Federalization has stabilized what you can carry on and what you can’t. The general rule is that sharp things are out, nail clippers are okay, and food and beverages must be passed through the X-ray machine. Bring food in your carry-on rather than checking it, as explosive-detection machines used to screen luggage have been known to mistake food (especially chocolate, for some reason) for bombs. The Transportation Security Administration (TSA) has issued a list of restricted items; check its website (www.tsa.gov/ public/index.jsp) for details. At press time, the TSA is recommending that you not lock your checked luggage so screeners can search it by hand if necessary. Instead of locks, the agency says to use plastic “zip ties” instead, which can be bought at hardware stores and can be easily cut off.

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GETTING INTO TOWN FROM THE AIRPORT

Vancouver International Airport (& 604/207-7077; www.yvr.ca) is 13km (8 miles) south of downtown Vancouver. The YVR Airporter (& 604/946-8866; www.yvrairporter.com) provides airport bus service to downtown Vancouver’s major hotels. It leaves from Level 2 of the Main Terminal every 15 minutes daily from 6:30am until midnight. A one-way fare for the 30-minute ride across the Granville Street Bridge into downtown is C$12 (US$9) for adults, C$9 (US$7) for seniors, and C$5 (US$3.75) for children. Getting from the airport with public transit is slower and requires at least one transfer, but it costs less. To travel into town catch bus no. 424 at Ground Level of the Domestic Terminal; it will take you to Airport Station. From there, bus no. 98B will take you into downtown Vancouver. BC Transit fares are C$3 (US$2.25) during peak hours and C$2 (US$1.50) on weekends and after 6:30pm. For more information, see page 29. The average taxi fare from the airport to a downtown Vancouver hotel is approximately C$25 (US$19) plus tip, but the fare can run up to C$40 (US$30) depending on traffic. Most major car-rental firms have airport counters and shuttles.

BY TRAIN VIA Rail Canada, 1150 Station St., Vancouver (& 888/842-7245; www.viarail.ca), connects with Amtrak at Winnipeg, Manitoba. From there, you can transfer to The Canadian, the western transcontinental train that travels between Vancouver and Toronto, and other Canadian cities. Amtrak (& 800/872-7245; www. amtrak.com) offers daily service from Seattle, though there’s currently only one train in the morning; otherwise, the Seattle–Vancouver route is covered by an Amtrak bus. Amtrak also has a route from San Diego to Vancouver. It stops at all major U.S. West Coast cities and takes a little under 2 days to complete the entire journey. U.S. residents can purchase a 30-day, two-country North America Railpass for US$495 to US$699 at peak season and use it for rail connections to Vancouver. International travelers can buy a 15-day National Railpass for US$295 off-peak, and a 30-day pass for US$385 off-peak. Amtrak trains arrive at Pacific Central Station, 1150 Station St. (at Main St. and Terminal Ave.; & 800/872-7245; www.amtrak. com), the main Vancouver railway station, located just south of Chinatown. You can reach downtown Vancouver from there by cab for about C$10 (US$7.50). There are plenty of taxis at the station

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entrance. One block from the station is the SkyTrain’s Main Street Station (p. 30); within minutes, you’ll be downtown. The Granville and Waterfront SkyTrain stations are two and four stops away, respectively.

BY BUS Greyhound Bus Lines (& 800/231-2222 or 604/482-8747; www. greyhound.com) offers daily bus service between Vancouver and all major Canadian cities, and between Vancouver and Seattle (at the border crossing, passengers disembark the bus and take their luggage through Customs). Greyhound Canada’s Canada Pass, which allows for unlimited travel within Canada, is available in increments from 1 week to 2 months for C$255 to C$575 (US$191–US$431). Pacific Coach Lines (& 604/662-8074; www.pacificcoach.com) provides service between Vancouver and Victoria. The cost is C$31 (US$23) one-way per adult and includes the ferry; daily departures are between 5:45am and 7:45pm. Pacific Coach Lines will also pick up passengers from the Vancouver cruise-ship terminal and from most downtown hotels. Call & 604/662-8074 to reserve. Both bus companies have their terminals at the same station as Amtrak: Pacific Central Station, 1150 Station St., just east of the downtown core. The station is close to a SkyTrain (light-rail) station and several city bus routes that travel along Main St.

BY CAR You’ll probably be driving into Vancouver along one of two routes. U.S. Interstate 5 from Seattle becomes Highway 99 when you cross the border at the Peace Arch. The 210km (130-mile) drive from Seattle takes about 21⁄2 hours. On the Canadian side of the border you’ll drive through the cities of White Rock, Delta, and Richmond, pass under the Fraser River through the George Massey Tunnel, and cross the Oak Street Bridge. The highway ends there and becomes Oak Street, a busy urban thoroughfare heading toward downtown. Turn left at the first convenient major arterial (70th, 57th, 49th, 41st, 33rd, 16th, and 12th aves. will all serve) and proceed until you hit the next major street, which will be Granville Street. Turn right on Granville Street. This street heads directly into downtown Vancouver on the Granville Street Bridge. Trans-Canada Highway 1 is a limited-access freeway running all the way to Vancouver’s eastern boundary, where it crosses the Second Narrows bridge to North Vancouver. When traveling on Highway 1 from the east, exit at Cassiar Street and turn left at the first

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light onto Hastings Street (Hwy. 7A), which is adjacent to Exhibition Park. Follow Hastings Street 6.4km (4 miles) into downtown. When coming to Vancouver from Whistler or parts north, take Exit 13 (the sign says TAYLOR WAY, BRIDGE TO VANCOUVER) and cross the Lions Gate Bridge into Vancouver’s West End.

BY SHIP & FERRY Vancouver is the major embarkation point for cruises going up British Columbia’s Inland Passage to Alaska. The ships carry more than one million passengers annually on their nearly 350 Vancouver–Alaska cruises. In the summer, up to five cruise ships a day berth at Canada Place cruise-ship terminal (& 604/665-9085; www.port vancouver.com). A city landmark shaped like a cruise ship and topped by five eye-catching white Teflon sails, Canada Place Pier juts out into the Burrard Inlet at the base of Burrard Street right at the edge of the downtown financial district. Princess Cruises, Holland America Line, Royal Caribbean, Crystal Cruises, Norwegian Cruise Line, World Explorer Cruises, Radisson Seven Seas Cruises, and Carnival all dock at Canada Place or the nearby Ballantyne Pier. Public-transit buses and taxis greet new arrivals, but you can also easily walk to many major hotels, including the Pan Pacific, Waterfront Centre, and Hotel Vancouver. (If you’re considering an Alaska cruise, late May and all of June generally offer the best weather, the most daylight, and the best sightseeing opportunities.) BC Ferries (& 888/223-3779 in BC only or 250/386-3431; www.bcferries.bc.ca) has three Victoria–Vancouver routes. Its large ferries offer onboard facilities such as restaurants, snack bars, gift shops, business-center desks with modem connections, and indoor lounges. The one-way fare in peak season is C$10 (US$7.50) for adults, C$5.25 (US$3.50) for students and children 5 to 11, and C$36 (US$26) per car. Children under 5 ride free. In the summer, if you’re driving, it’s a good idea to reserve a space beforehand, especially on long weekends. Call BC Ferries reservations at & 888/ 724-5223 (in BC only) or 604/444-2890. To or from Victoria, the most direct route is Tsawwassen–Swartz Bay ferry, which operates daily between 7am and 9pm (10pm on Sun). Ferries run every hour with extra sailings on holidays and in peak travel season. The actual crossing takes 95 minutes, but schedule an extra 2 hours for travel to and from both ferry terminals, including waiting time at the docks. Driving distance from

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Frommers.com: The Complete Travel Resource For an excellent travel-planning resource, we highly recommend Frommers.com (www.frommers.com). We’re a little biased, of course, but we guarantee that you’ll find the travel tips, reviews, monthly vacation giveaways, and online-booking capabilities thoroughly indispensable. Among the special features are our popular Message Boards, where Frommer’s readers post queries and share advice (sometimes even our authors show up to answer questions); Frommers.com Newsletter, for the latest travel bargains and insider travel secrets; and Frommer’s Destinations Section, where you’ll get expert travel tips, hotel and dining recommendations, and advice on the sights to see for more than 3,000 destinations around the globe. When your research is done, the Online Reservations System (www.frommers.com/book_a_trip) takes you to Frommer’s preferred online partners for booking your vacation at affordable prices.

Tsawwassen to Vancouver is about 20km (12 miles). Take Highway 17 from Tsawwassen until it merges with Highway 99 just before the George Massey Tunnel; then follow the driving directions to Vancouver given in “By Car,” above. If you prefer to travel by public transit, BC Transit has regular bus service to both terminals. The Vancouver–Nanaimo ferry operates between Tsawwassen and Duke Point, just south of Nanaimo. The 2-hour crossing runs eight times daily between 5:15am and 10:45pm. The Horseshoe Bay–Nanaimo ferry has nine daily sailings, leaving Horseshoe Bay near West Vancouver and arriving 95 minutes later in Nanaimo. To reach Vancouver from Horseshoe Bay, take the Trans-Canada Highway (Hwys. 1 and 99) east and then take Exit 13 (Taylor Way) to the Lions Gate Bridge and downtown Vancouver’s West End.

2 Getting to Know Vancouver ith four different bodies of water lapping at its edges and mile W after mile of shoreline, Vancouver’s geography can seem a bit complicated. That’s part of the city’s maritime charm, of course, and visitors usually don’t find it too difficult to get their bearings. Just look to the mountains: They are to the north, across a body of water called Burrard Inlet. If you’re facing the mountains, east is to your right, west is to your left, and the back of your head is pointing south. You’ll also find that Vancouverites are incredibly friendly: If you’re scratching your head over a map, someone will inevitably ask if they can help direct you. This chapter offers more detailed information on how to find your way around this scenic city.

1 Orientation VISITOR INFORMATION TOURIST OFFICES & PUBLICATIONS Tourism Vancouver Touristinfo Centre, 200 Burrard St. (& 604/683-2000; www. tourismvancouver.com), is your single best travel information source about Vancouver and the North Shore. An incredibly helpful and well-trained staff provides information, maps, and brochures, and can help you with all your travel needs, including hotel, cruise ship, ferry, bus, and train reservations. There’s also a half-price ticket office (Tickets Tonight) for same-day shows and events in Vancouver. The Info Centre is open from May to Labour Day daily from 8am to 6pm; the rest of the year, it’s open Monday through Saturday from 8:30am to 5pm. The free weekly tabloid The Georgia Straight (& 604/7307000; www.straight.com), found all over the city, provides up-todate schedules of concerts, lectures, art exhibits, plays, recitals, and other happenings. Not free but equally good—and with more attitude—is the glossy city magazine Vancouver (& 604/877-7732; www.vanmag.com), available on newsstands. The free guide called Where Vancouver (& 604/736-5586; www.where.ca), available in

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many hotels, lists attractions, entertainment, upscale shopping, and fine dining, and has good maps. Two free monthly tabloids, BC Parent (& 604/221-0366; www. bcparent.com) and West Coast Families (& 604/689-1331), available at grocery stores and cafes around the city, are geared for families with young children, listing many kid-friendly current events. Gay and lesbian travelers will want to pick up a copy of Xtra! West (& 604/684-9696), a free biweekly tabloid available in cafes, bars, shops, and restaurants throughout the West End.

CITY LAYOUT Downtown Vancouver is on a peninsula: think of it as an upraised thumb on the mitten-shaped Vancouver mainland. Stanley Park, the West End, Yaletown, and Vancouver’s business and financial center (downtown) are located on this thumb of land bordered to the north by Burrard Inlet, the city’s main deep-water harbor and port, to the west by English Bay, and to the south by False Creek. Farther west beyond English Bay is the Pacific Ocean. Just south across False Creek is Granville Island, famous for its public market, and the beach community of Kitsilano. This part of the city, called the West Side, covers the mainland, or the hand of the mitten. Its western shoreline looks out on the Strait of Georgia with the Pacific beyond, and the North Arm of the Fraser River demarcates it to the south. Pacific Spirit Park and the University of British Columbia (UBC), a locus for visitors because of its outstanding Museum of Anthropology, take up most of the western tip of the West Side; the rest is mostly residential, with a sprinkling of businesses along main arterial streets. North Vancouver is the mountain-backed area directly across Burrard Inlet from downtown Vancouver.

THE NEIGHBORHOODS IN BRIEF Exploring Vancouver’s fascinating and distinct neighborhoods is a key part of enjoying the city. Here’s a quick guide on where to go and what to look for.

Downtown Most of Vancouver’s commercial and office space is found in a squarish patch starting at Nelson Street and heading north to the harbor, with Homer Street and Burrard Street forming the east and west boundaries respectively. Many of the city’s best hotels are also found in this area, clustering near Robson Square and the water’s edge. Canada Place, on the waterfront facing Burrard Inlet, is the city’s huge convention center and cruise-ship terminal. Georgia Street—in addition to being the prime address for class A commercial property—is where you’ll

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find the Vancouver Art Gallery (p. 104), the Coliseum-shaped Vancouver Public Library, and the Pacific Centre regional shopping mall. Robson Street is Trend Central, crammed with designer boutiques, restaurants, and cafes. Vancouver’s recently revived great white way, Granville Street, is the home of bars, clubs, theaters, pubs, and restaurants (along with one or two remaining porn shops to add that touch of seedy authenticity). The West End This was Vancouver’s first upscale neighborhood, settled in the 1890s by the city’s budding class of merchant princes. By the 1930s, most of the grand Edwardian homes had become rooming houses, and in the late 1950s some of the Edwardians came down and high-rise apartments went up. The resulting neighborhood owes more to the verticality of Manhattan than to the sprawling cities of the west, though the view of the mountains and the gorgeous beaches along English Bay and Stanley Park are pure Northwest. All the necessities of life are contained within the West End’s border, especially on Denman and Robson streets: great cafes, good nightclubs, and some of the best restaurants in the city. Gastown The oldest section of Vancouver, Gastown is named for a saloonkeeper—Gassy Jack Deighton—who, according to local legend, talked the local mill hands into building a saloon as Vancouver’s first structure in return for all the whiskey they could drink. Nowadays, Gastown is still liberally endowed with pubs and clubs—it’s one of two or three areas where Vancouverites congregate when the sun goes down. It’s also the only section of the city that has the feel of an old Victorian town—the buildings stand shoulder to shoulder and cobblestones line the streets. Rents in Gastown have stayed low so it’s the place to look for a new and experimental art gallery, or a young fashion designer setting up shop, or a piece of beautiful, handcarved First Nations art in one of the galleries along Water and Hastings streets. It’s also the setting for the famous Steam Clock on Water Street. Chinatown Even though much of Vancouver’s huge Asian population has moved out to near-by Richmond, Chinatown is still home to tens of thousands of Cantonese-speaking Canadians, and hasn’t become overtly touristy. The low-rise buildings in this lively community are painted in bright colors and sidewalk markets abound. The area was originally settled at the same time as the rest of Vancouver, by migrant laborers brought in to build the Canadian Pacific Railway. Many white settlers resented the Chinese labor, and race riots periodically broke out. At one point Vancouver’s Chinatown was surrounded with Belfast-like security

THE NEIGHBORHOODS IN BRIEF

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walls. By the ’40s and ’50s, however, the area was mostly threatened with neglect. In the ’70s, there was a serious plan to tear the whole neighborhood down and put in a freeway. A huge protest stopped that, and now the area’s future seems secure. For visitors, the fun is to simply wander, look, and taste. Yaletown & False Creek North Vancouver’s former meatpacking and warehouse district, Yaletown has long since been converted to an area of apartment lofts, nightclubs, restaurants, high-end furniture shops, and a fledgling multimedia biz. It’s a relatively tiny area and the main streets of interest are Mainland, Hamilton, and Davie. For visitors, it features some interesting cafes and patios, some high-end shops, and a kind of gritty urban feel that you won’t find elsewhere in Vancouver. This old-time authenticity provides an essential anchor to the brand spanking new bevy of towers that has arisen in the past 10 years on Pacific Boulevard along the north edge of False Creek. Officially (and unimaginatively) called False Creek North, the area is more often referred to as “the Concorde lands” after the developer, or “the Expo lands” after the world’s fair held in 1986 on the land where the towers now stand. Where the shiny newness of Concorde can prove a little disconcerting, gritty Yaletown provides the antidote. And vice versa. The two neighborhoods are slowly melding into one wonderful whole. Granville Island Part crafts fair, part farmers market, part artist’s workshop, part mall, and part industrial site, Granville Island seems to have it all. Some 20 years ago, the federal government decided to try its hand at a bit of urban renewal, so they took this piece of industrial waterfront and redeveloped it into . . . well, it’s hard to describe. But everything you could name is here: theaters, pubs, restaurants, artists’ studios, bookstores, crafts shops, an art school, a hotel, a cement plant, and lots and lots of people. One of the most enjoyable ways to experience the Granville Island atmosphere is to head down to the Granville Island Public Market, grab a latte (and perhaps a piece of cake or pie to boot), then wander outside to enjoy the view of the boats, the buskers, and the children endlessly chasing flocks of squawking seagulls. Kitsilano Hard to believe, but in the ’60s Kitsilano was a neighborhood that had fallen on hard times. Nobody respectable wanted to live there—the 1920s homes had all been converted to cheap rooming houses—so the hippies moved in. The neighborhood became Canada’s Haight-Ashbury, with coffeehouses, bead shops, and lots of incense and long hair. Once the boom generation stopped raging against the machine, they realized that

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Kitsilano—right next to the beach, but not quite downtown— was a very groovy place to live and a fine place to own property. Real estate began an upward trend that has never stopped, and “Kits” became thoroughly yuppified. Nowadays, it’s a fun place to wander. There are great bookstores and trendy furniture and housewares shops, lots of consignment clothing stores, snowboard shops, coffee everywhere, and lots of places to eat. The best parts of Kitsilano are the stretch of W. Fourth Avenue between Burrard and Balsam streets, and W. Broadway between Macdonald and Alma streets. Oh, and Kits Beach, of course, with that fabulous heated saltwater swimming pool. Commercial Drive Known as “The Drive” to Vancouverites, it’s the 12-block section from Venables Street to East Sixth Avenue. The Drive has a counterculture feel to it. There are posters for ¡Cuba Libre! rallies, and bits of graffiti reading “Smash Capitalism!” But The Drive also has an immigrant feel to it. The first wave of Italians left cafes such as Calabria, 1745 Commercial Dr. (& 604/253-7017) and Caffe Amici, 1344 Commercial Dr. (& 604/255-2611). More recent waves of Portuguese, Hondurans, and Guatemalans have also left their mark. And lately, hipsters—the kind of trendy moneyed folks who love to live in this kind of milieu—have moved in. Shops and restaurants reflect the mix. Think Italian cafe next to the Marxist bookstore across from the vegan deli selling yeast-free Tuscan bread. Shaughnessy Designed in the 1920s as an enclave for Vancouver’s budding elite, this is Vancouver’s Nob Hill. Thanks to the stranglehold Shaughnessy exerts on local politics—every second mayor hails from this neighborhood—traffic flow is carefully diverted away from the area, and it takes a little bit of driving around to find your way in. It’s an effort worth making, however, if only to see the stately homes and monstrous mansions, many of which are now featured in film shoots. The center of opulence is the Crescent, an elliptical street to the southwest of Granville and 16th Avenue. Richmond Twenty years ago, Richmond was mostly farmland. Now it’s Asia West, an agglomeration of shopping malls (such as Aberdeen Mall and the Yao Han Centre) geared to the new— read: rich, educated, and successful—Chinese immigrant. It’s like getting into your car in Vancouver and getting out in Hong Kong. Punjabi Market This 4-block stretch of Main Street, from 48th up to 52nd avenues, is India imported. The area is best seen during business hours, when the fragrant scent of spices wafts out

GETTING AROUND

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from food stalls, while the sound of Hindi pop songs blares from hidden speakers. Young brides hunt through sari shops or seek out suitable material in discount textile outlets. Memsaab Boutique, 6647 Main St. (& 604/322-0250), and Frontier Cloth House, 6695 Main St. (& 604/325-4424), specialize in richly colored silk saris, shawls, fabrics, and costume jewelry. A good place to eat is Nirvana, 2313 Main St. (& 604/872-8779).

2 Getting Around BY PUBLIC TRANSPORTATION Vancouver’s public transportation system is the most extensive in Canada and includes service to all major tourist attractions, so it’s not really necessary to have a car (especially if you’re staying in the downtown area). The Translink (otherwise known as BC Transit; & 604/5210400; www.translink.bc.ca) system includes electric buses, the SeaBus catamaran ferry, and the light-rail SkyTrain. It’s an ecologically friendly, highly reliable, and inexpensive system that allows you to get everywhere, including the beaches and ski slopes. Regular service runs from 5am to 2am. Schedules and routes are available online, at the Travel Info Centres, at many major hotels, and on buses. Pick up a copy of Discover Vancouver on Transit at one of the Travel Info Centres (see “Visitor Information,” earlier in this chapter). FARES Fares are based on the number of zones traveled, and are the same for buses, SeaBus, and SkyTrain. One ticket allows you to transfer from one mode of transportation to another, in any direction, for 90 minutes. A one-way, one-zone fare (which includes everything in central Vancouver) costs C$2 (US$1.50). A two-zone fare—C$3 (US$2.25)—is required to travel to nearby suburbs such as Richmond or North Vancouver. After 6:30pm on weekdays and all day on weekends and holidays, you can travel anywhere in all three zones for C$2 (US$1.50). DayPasses, good on all public transit, cost C$8 (US$6) for adults and C$6 (US$4.50) for seniors, students, and children. They can be used for unlimited travel on weekdays or weekends and holidays. Keep in mind that drivers do not make change, so you need the exact fare, or a valid transit pass. Pay with cash or buy tickets and passes from ticket machines at stations, Travel Info Centres, both SeaBus terminals, convenience stores, drugstores, and outlets displaying the FAREDEALER sign; most of these outlets also sell a transit map showing all routes for C$1.95 (US$1.45).

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BY BUS Regular service on the busiest routes is every 12 minutes through the day to 2am. Wheelchair-accessible buses and bus stops are identified by the international wheelchair symbol. Some key routes to keep in mind if you’re touring the city by bus: no. 5 (Robson St.), no. 2 (Kitsilano Beach to downtown), no. 50 (Granville Island), no. 35 or 135 (to the Stanley Park bus loop), no. 240 (North Vancouver), no. 250 (West Vancouver–Horseshoe Bay), and buses no. 4 and 10 (UBC to Exhibition Park via Granville St. downtown). From June until the end of September, the Vancouver Parks Board operates a bus route through Stanley Park stopping at 14 points of interest. Call & 604/257-8400 for details on this free service or contact & 604/953-3333 for general public transportation information. BY SKYTRAIN The SkyTrain is a fast, light-rail service between downtown Vancouver and the suburbs. There are two services. The Expo Line trains operate from Waterfront to King George station, running along a scenic 28km (34 miles) route from downtown Vancouver east to Surrey through Burnaby and New Westminster in 39 minutes. There are 20 stations along this route; four downtown stations are underground and marked at street level. The Millennium Line, which opened in the fall of 2002, makes the same stops from Waterfront to Columbia then branches to Sapperton, Braid, Lougheed town Centre, and beyond to Commercial Drive. All stations except Granville are wheelchair accessible; trains arrive every 2 to 5 minutes. BY SEABUS A scenic 12-minute ride ferries commuters between downtown’s Waterfront Station and North Vancouver’s Lonsdale Quay. On weekdays, a SeaBus leaves each stop every 15 minutes from 6:15am to 6:30pm, then every 30 minutes until 1am. SeaBuses depart on Saturdays every half-hour from 6:30am to 12:30pm, then every 15 minutes until 7:15pm, then every halfhour until 1am. On Sundays and holidays, runs depart every halfhour from 8:30am to 11pm. Note that the crossing is a two-zone fare on weekdays until 6:30pm.

BY TAXI Cab fares start at C$2.30 (US$1.70) and increase at a rate of C$1.25 (US95¢) per kilometer, plus C30¢ (US25¢) per minute at stoplights or in stalled traffic. In the downtown area, you can expect to travel for less than C$10 (US$7.50) plus tip. The typical fare for the 13km (8-mile) drive from downtown to the airport is C$25 (US$19).

GETTING AROUND

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Flagging a taxi down can be tricky. If you call for a cab, it usually arrives faster than if you go out and hail one. Try Black Top (& 604/731-1111), Yellow Cab (& 604/681-1111), or MacLure’s (& 604/731-9211).

BY CAR Cars are not necessary in Vancouver: If you’re just sightseeing around town public transit and cabs will easily see you through. RENTAL CARS If you’re over 25 and have a major credit card, you can rent a vehicle from Avis, 757 Hornby St. (& 800/8792847 or 604/606-2868); Budget, 501 W. Georgia St. (& 800/4723325 or 604/668-7000); Enterprise, 585 Smithe St. (& 800/ 736-8222 or 604/688-5500); Hertz Canada, 1128 Seymour St. (& 800/263-0600 or 604/606-4711); National/Tilden, 1130 W. Georgia St. (& 800/387-4747 or 604/685-6111); or Thrifty, 1015 Burrard St. or 1400 Robson St. (& 800/847-4389 or 604/6061666). These agencies also have counters and shuttle service at the airport. PARKING All major downtown hotels have guest parking, either in-house or at nearby lots. Rates vary from free to C$25 (US$19) per day. There’s public parking at Robson Square (enter at Smithe and Howe sts.), the Pacific Centre (Howe and Dunsmuir sts.), and The Bay department store (Richards near Dunsmuir St.). You’ll also find larger parking lots at the intersections of Thurlow and Georgia, Thurlow and Alberni, and Robson and Seymour streets. Rules for metered street parking are posted on the street and are strictly enforced. The meters accept C$2 (US$1.50) and C$1 (US75¢) coins. (Note: Drivers are given about a 2-min. grace period before their cars are towed away when the 3pm no-parking rule goes into effect on many major thoroughfares.) Unmetered parking on side streets is often subject to neighborhood residency requirements: Check the signs. If you need a towing service and aren’t a CAA or an AAA member, call Unitow (& 604/251-1255) or Busters (& 604/685-8181). AUTO CLUB Members of the American Automobile Association (AAA) can get assistance from the Canadian Automobile Association (CAA), 999 W. Broadway, Vancouver (& 604/268-5600 or for road service 604/293-2222; www.caa.ca).

BY BIKE Vancouver is a biker’s paradise. There are plenty of places to rent a bike along Robson and Denman streets near Stanley Park. (For

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specifics, see p. 127.) Paved paths crisscross through parks and along beaches, and new routes are constantly being added. Helmets are mandatory and riding on sidewalks is illegal except on designated bike paths.

BY MINIFERRY Crossing False Creek to Granville Island or beautiful Vanier Park on one of the zippy little miniferries is cheap and fun. These small, privately-operated covered boats act like the vaporettos in Venice, connecting various points of interest. The Aquabus (& 604/689-5858; www.aquabus.bc.ca) docks at David Lam Park, the south foot of Hornby Street, the Arts Club on Granville Island, Yaletown at Davie Street, Science World, and Stamp’s Landing. Ferries operate daily from 7am to 10:30pm (8:30pm in winter). The one-way fare is C$2 (US$1.50); bikes are welcome. False Creek Ferries (& 604/684-7781; www.granville islandferries.bc.ca) is a miniferry service that makes stops at Granville Island, Sunset Beach below the Burrard Street Bridge, Yaletown, Science World, Vancouver Maritime Museum, Pacific Space Centre, and Vancouver Museum. Ferries operate every 15 minutes to half an hour from 10am to 5pm (later in May and June). One-way fares vary from C$2 to C$5 (US$1.50–US$3.75) for adults and C$1 to C$3 (US75¢–US$2.25) for seniors and children. A day pass costs C$12 (US$9) for adults, C$10 (US$7.50) for seniors, and C$8 (US$6) for children. You can take a scenic 40-minute harbor tour for C$8 (US$6) adults, C$6 (US$4.50) seniors, and C$5 (US$3.75) children.

FAST FACTS: Vancouver Area Codes The telephone area code for greater Vancouver is 604; you need to dial the area code even when calling within the area. Business Hours Vancouver banks are open Monday through Thursday from 10am to 5pm and Friday from 10am to 6pm. Some banks, like Canadian Trust, are also open on Saturdays. Stores are generally open Monday through Saturday from 10am to 6pm. Last call at the city’s restaurant bars and cocktail lounges is 2am.

FA S T FA C T S : VA N C O U V E R

Consulates The U.S. Consulate is at 1075–1095 W. Pender St. (& 604/685-4311). The British Consulate is at 800–1111 Melville St. (& 604/683-4421). The Australian Consulate is at 1225–888 Dunsmuir St. (& 604/684-1177). Check the Yellow Pages for other countries’ consulates. Dentists Most major hotels have a dentist on call. Vancouver Centre Dental Clinic, Vancouver Centre Mall, 11–650 W. Georgia St. (& 604/682-1601), is another option. You must make an appointment. The clinic is open Monday through Wednesday 8:30am to 6pm, Thursday 8:30am to 7pm, and Friday 9am to 6pm. Doctors Hotels usually have a doctor on call. Vancouver Medical Clinics, Bentall Centre, 1055 Dunsmuir St. (& 604/6838138), is a drop-in clinic open Monday through Friday 8am to 4:45pm. Another drop-in medical center, Carepoint Medical Centre, 1175 Denman St. (& 604/681-5338), is open daily from 9am to 9pm. Electricity As in the United States, electric current is 110 volts AC (60 cycles). Emergencies Dial & 911 for fire, police, ambulance, and poison control. Hospitals St. Paul’s Hospital, 1081 Burrard St. (& 604/6822344), is the closest facility to downtown and the West End. West Side Vancouver hospitals include Vancouver General Hospital Health and Sciences Centre, 855 W. 12th Ave. (& 604/875-4111), and British Columbia’s Children’s Hospital, 4480 Oak St. (& 604/875-2345). In North Vancouver, there’s Lions Gate Hospital, 231 E. 15th St. (& 604/988-3131). Internet Access Free Internet access is available at the Vancouver public library central branch, 350 W. Georgia St. (& 604/331-3600). Just across the street, Webster’s Internet Cafe, 340 Robson St. (& 604/915-9327), charges for access but generally has a computer available. At the other end of Robson Street there’s Cyber Space Internet Café (& 604/6846004). Or, for some late-night surfing, try Internet Coffee, 1104 Davie St. (& 604/682-6668). Liquor Laws The legal drinking age in British Columbia is 19. Spirits are sold only in government liquor stores, but beer and wine can be purchased from specially licensed, privately

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owned stores and pubs. Most LCBC (Liquor Control of British Columbia) stores are open Monday through Saturday from 10am to 6pm, but some are open to 11pm. Newspapers & Magazines The two local papers are the Vancouver Sun (www.vancouversun.com), published Monday through Saturday, and The Province (www.canada.com/ vancouver/theprovince), published Sunday through Friday mornings. The free weekly entertainment paper, The Georgia Straight, comes out on Thursday. Pharmacies Shopper’s Drug Mart, 1125 Davie St. (& 604/6856445), is open 24 hours. Several Safeway supermarket pharmacies are open late; the one on Robson and Denman is open until midnight. Police The Vancouver City Police can be reached at 717-3535.

& 604/

Post Office The main post office (& 800/267-1177) is at West Georgia and Homer streets (349 W. Georgia St.). It’s open Monday through Friday from 8am to 5:30pm. Taxes Hotel rooms are subject to a 10% tax. The provincial sales tax (PST) is 7% (excluding food, restaurant meals, and children’s clothing). For specific questions, call the BC Consumer Taxation Branch (& 604/660-4524; www.rev.gov.bc.ca). Most goods and services are subject to a 7% federal goods and services tax (GST). Save your receipts: You can get a refund on short-stay (less than a couple months) accommodations and all shopping purchases. Each purchase must be greater than C$50 (US$38), and you must have a total of at least C$200 (US$150) to file a claim. (This refund doesn’t apply to car rentals, parking, restaurant meals, room service, tobacco, or alcohol.) Hotels and the Info Centres can give you application forms, which you then mail to Revenue Canada on your return home. After processing, the government sends a check to your home address. For details on the GST, call & 800/668-4748 in Canada or 902/432-5608 outside Canada, or visit www.ccra-adrc.gc.ca/visitors. PDF files of the refund forms are on the site for you to print out. If you want your refund right away, Maple Leaf Tax Refund (& 800/9934313 or 604/893-8478) in The Fairmont Hotel Vancouver, 900 W. Georgia St. (in the lower lobby), will process your application and provide a refund on the spot, less an 18% processing fee. You’ll have to bring your receipts, two pieces of ID

FA S T FA C T S : VA N C O U V E R

(one of which shows your home address), your plane ticket, and the items you purchased to show to the processing agent. Note: If you arrived in Canada by car, Maple Leaf can only give you a refund on your accommodations bills. You can still get a refund on other items, but only by sending in forms by mail, and only if you have your receipts stamped by Canada Customs or a participating duty-free store when you drive out of the country. Telephone Phones in British Columbia are identical to U.S. phones. The country code is the same as the U.S. code (1). Local calls normally cost C25¢ (US20¢). Many hotels charge up to C$1 (US75¢) per local call and much more for long-distance calls. You can save considerably by using your calling card. You can also buy prepaid phone cards in various denominations at grocery and convenience stores. Time Zone Vancouver is in the Pacific time zone, as are Seattle, Portland, and San Francisco. Daylight saving time applies April through October. Tipping Tipping etiquette is the same as in the United States: 15% to 20% in restaurants, C$1 (US75¢) per bag for bellboys and porters, and C$1 to C$4 (US75¢–US$3) per day for the hotel housekeeper. Taxi drivers get a sliding-scale tip—fares under C$4 (US$3) deserve a C$1 (US75¢) tip; for fares over C$5 (US$3.75), tip 15%.

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3 Where to Stay in Vancouver T

he past few years have seen a lot of activity in the Vancouver hotel business. Lots of new rooms have opened up, some in the high end, and a lot more in the moderate-to-budget range. Other hotels have undergone extensive renovations, and good-natured competition has flourished among all the city’s hostelries. So no matter what your budget, there’s no reason to settle for second best. Most of the hotels are in the downtown area or in the West End. Both neighborhoods are close to major sights and services. The West Side of Vancouver has a few hotels, plus many pleasant bed-and-breakfasts. Other good accommodations are found across Burrard Inlet on the North Shore. Whichever area you choose, remember that quoted prices don’t include the 10% provincial accommodations tax or the 7% goods and services tax (GST). Non-Canadian residents can get a GST rebate on short-stay (less than a couple months) accommodations by filling out the Tax Refund Application (see “Taxes,” under “Fast

Bed & Breakfast Registries If you prefer to stay in a B&B, the following agencies specialize in matching guests with establishments that best suit their needs: • Vancouver Bed & Breakfast, 4390 Frances St., Burnaby, BC V5C ZR3 (& 604/298-8815; fax 604/298-5917; www. vancouverbandb.bc.ca). • Canada-West Accommodations, P.O. Box 86607, North Vancouver, BC V7L 4L2 (& 800/561-3223 or 604/9906730; www.b-b.com). • Town and Country Bed & Breakfast Reservation Service, 2803 W. Fourth Ave. (P.O. Box 74542), Vancouver, BC V6K IK2 (&/fax 604/731-5942; www.townandcountry bedandbreakfast.com).

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Facts,” in chapter 2). And remember, too, that we list the rack rates; these are the rates you would receive if you went in off the street and requested a room. By checking the hotel’s website you’ll almost always be able to find lower rates, including special “romance packages” and weekend getaway specials.

1 Downtown & Yaletown All downtown hotels are within 5 to 10 minutes’ walking distance of shops, restaurants, and attractions. Hotels in this area lean more toward luxurious than modest, a state of affairs reflected in their prices.

VERY EXPENSIVE Kids The Delta Vancouver Suites is a full-service, all-suites, high-rise hotel with a special appeal to business travelers. Built in 1995 in the heart of Vancouver’s business and financial district, it sits across the street from the Lookout! observation tower (p. 106), just minutes from Canada Place, Gastown, Chinatown, and Robson Square. The look throughout is upscale and high-end, with an attractive lobby connecting to a stateof-the-art conference facility. Each suite has a nicely designed desk and mini-office/living area separated from the bed. The corner no. -09 rooms are long and narrow with a full wall of floor-to-ceiling glass. Room decor is neutral and non-threatening. Consider paying C$20 (US$15) more and upgrading to the Signature Club: This gets you a room on the top three floors, a down duvet, CD player, and access to the Signature Lounge, which puts out a good continental breakfast and afternoon hors d’oeuvres (both included in the upgrade); you can eat outside on the open balcony and enjoy a view of the mountains. All guests can use the large, heated indoor pool and good-size fitness room. Kids are given a welcome pack on arrival, and the Delta is the only downtown hotel where pets can stay for free. Rooms for travelers with disabilities are available. Check their website for special rates and promotions.

Delta Vancouver Suites

550 W. Hastings St., Vancouver, BC V6B 1L6. & 877/814-7706 or 604/689-8188. Fax 604/605-8881. www.deltahotels.com. 226 units. Oct 16–Apr C$159–C$199 (US$119–US$150) double; May–Oct 15 C$209–C$299 (US$157–US$225) double. Children under 18 stay free in parent’s room. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Valet parking C$15 (US$11). Amenities: Restaurant; bar; indoor pool; health club; spa services; concierge; business center; 24-hr. room service; massage; babysitting; laundry service; dry cleaning; nonsmoking rooms; executive-level rooms. In room: A/C, TV w/pay movies and games, dataport w/high-speed Internet, minibar, coffeemaker, hair dryer, iron, safe, bathrobes.

Where to Stay in Downtown Vancouver

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The Fairmont Hotel Vancouver Thanks to a recent C$75million renovation, the grande dame of Vancouver’s hotels has been restored to her former glory. The Fairmont’s majestic copper peaks have defined the Vancouver skyline since the hotel opened in 1939. Located directly across from busy Robson Square and the Vancouver Art Gallery, the hotel has been completely brought up to 21stcentury standards but retains its very old-fashioned, traditional elegance. The rooms are spacious, quiet, and comfortable, if not particularly dynamic in layout or finish. The bathrooms gleam with marble floors and sinks and have the kind of solid tubs that you just don’t find anywhere anymore. The courtyard suites feature a large luxuriously furnished living room, separated from the bedroom by French glass doors. A state-of-the-art spa features day packages and a la carte treatments including body scrubs and wraps. 900 W. Georgia St., Vancouver, BC V6C 2W6. & 800/441-1414 or 604/684-3131. Fax 604/662-1929. www.fairmont.com. 556 units. High season C$339–C$519 (US$254–US$389) double; low season C$289–C$429 (US$217–US$322) double. Children under 18 stay free in parent’s room. Wheelchair-accessible rooms and rooms for hearing-impaired guests available. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Parking C$25 (US$19). Small pets accepted for a C$25 (US$19) charge. Amenities: 2 restaurants; bar; indoor pool; health club; excellent spa; Jacuzzi; sauna; concierge; tour desk; car rental; business center; shopping arcade; salon; 24-hr. room service; massage; babysitting; laundry service; same-day dry cleaning; nonsmoking rooms; Fairmont Gold executive level. In room: A/C, TV w/pay movies, dataport, minibar, coffeemaker, hair dryer, iron. Kids Four Seasons Hotel For nearly 30 years now, the Four Seasons has reigned as one of Vancouver’s top hotels. The hotel is favored by international business travelers who expect impeccable service and a full array of services—everything from complimentary shoe shines to a car service. From the outside, this huge high-rise hotel across from the Vancouver Art Gallery is rather unappealing. But the elegant lobby opens up into a spacious garden terrace and the appealingly large, light-filled rooms offer interesting views of downtown with glimpses of the mountains. The marble bathrooms are particularly well done. For a slightly larger room, reserve a deluxe corner room with wraparound floor-to-ceiling windows. One of the glories of this hotel is its health club with an enormous heated pool, half indoors and half outdoors, on a terrace right in the heart of downtown. In 2004, Travel + Leisure magazine voted the Four Seasons one of the top 10 highest-ranking hotels for value in Canada.

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791 W. Georgia St., Vancouver, BC V6C 2T4. & 800/332-3442 in the U.S. or 604/689-9333. Fax 604/844-6744. www.fourseasons.com/vancouver. 376 units. C$340–C$400 (US$255–US$300) double; C$420–C$440 (US$315–US$330) executive suite; C$740 (US$555) deluxe executive suite. Wheelchair-accessible units available. AE, DC, MC, V. Parking C$26 (US$20). Pets accepted. Amenities: 2 restaurants; bar; indoor and heated outdoor pool; outstanding exercise room; sauna; concierge; car rental; business center; shopping arcade; 24-hr. room service; massage; babysitting; laundry service; same-day dry cleaning; nonsmoking rooms. In room: A/C, TV/VCR, dataport (high-speed and wireless Internet), minibar, hair dryer, iron, safe. Overrated This 5-year-old boutique hotel midway between Robson Square and the financial district tries hard to look like a glamorous French country manor but succeeds only in looking rather fussily over-decorated. The lobby, done with crystal chandeliers, plush carpeting, and gilded, vaulted ceilings, is meant to dazzle. Except for 10 doubles, all the units are suites (rather small, for the most part); for maximum space the corner suites are best. The problem with some of the units is that the sitting areas have no windows and consequently feel gloomy and confined, despite the Biedermeier-style furniture and richly colored wallpapers and fabrics. The views aren’t particularly interesting except from the penthouse suites. Le Soleil made it onto Condé Nast’s 2004 Gold List of the world’s best places to stay, but if you’re looking for a luxury boutique hotel, the Wedgewood (see below) is far more appealing.

Le Soleil Hotel & Suites

567 Hornby St., Vancouver, BC V6C 2E8. & 877/632-3030 or 604/632-3000. Fax 604/632-3001. www.lesoleilhotel.com. 119 units. May 1–Oct 15 C$400 (US$300) double, C$430 (US$323) suite, C$1,500 (US$1,125) penthouse; Oct 16–Apr 30 C$300 (US$225) double, C$330 (US$248) suite, C$1,000 (US$750) penthouse. AE, DC, MC, V. Valet parking C$20 (US$15). Pets accepted, C$150 (US$113). Amenities: Restaurant; access to YWCA fitness facilities next door; concierge; business center; 24-hr. room service; laundry service; same-day dry cleaning; nonsmoking rooms. In room: A/C, TV w/pay movies, dataport, minibar, coffeemaker, hair dryer, iron, safe.

Metropolitan Hotel Vancouver This is a hotel for people who want traditional luxury, full service, and security without any of the hip, friendly trendiness of the Pacific Palisades or Opus (both reviewed below). Centrally situated between the financial district and downtown shopping areas, the Metropolitan mostly caters to upscale business travelers. The rooms are quiet, well-built, and luxurious, with dark-wood furnishings and comfortable beds with fine Italian linens. Beautiful bathrooms feature marble floors, sizable countertops, and separate shower and bath. Many units in the 18story hotel have small balconies, but the views here are not the

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hotel’s selling point because the building is dwarfed by the Four Seasons across the street. The hotel’s restaurant, Diva (p. 65), is regarded as one of Vancouver’s top restaurants. 645 Howe St., Vancouver, BC V6C 2Y9. & 800/667-2300 or 604/687-1122. Fax 604/643-7267. www.metropolitan.com. 197 units. Oct–Apr C$229–C$329 (US$172–US$247) double; May–Sept C$239–C$339 (US$174–US$254) double. Children under 18 stay free in parent’s room. Pets accepted. AE, DC, MC, V. Underground parking C$23 (US$17). Amenities: Restaurant; bar; indoor pool; health club; Jacuzzi; concierge; business center; 24-hr. room service; in-room massage; babysitting; laundry service; same-day dry cleaning; nonsmoking rooms; squash courts; wireless Internet in lobby and restaurant. In room: A/C, TV w/pay movies, high-speed Internet, minibar, coffeemaker, hair dryer, iron, safe, bathrobes, CD player.

Opus Hotel If you want to stay in a hip, colorful, luxury hotel without the attitude that usually goes with it, try the Opus. Opened in 2002, it’s the only hotel in Yaletown, the trendiest area in the city for shopping, cafe-hopping, and eating out. Each room is furnished according to one of five “personalities,” with its own layout, color, and flavor. Rooms are somewhat small but everything is done well, and the luscious colors are an eye-treat if you’re tired of blah hotel interiors. The beds are deliciously firm with feather duvets and top-quality linens. Bathrooms are fitted out with highdesign sinks, one-person unjetted bathtubs, or showers, and feature L’Occitane toiletries. For the best views, book one of the corner suites on the seventh floor. Two rooms on the second floor open onto a pretty interior garden terrace. The exercise room is tiny, but for a C$10 (US$7.50) fee, guests have access to a neighboring fullservice gym. The cool Opus Bar serves an international tapas menu and on summer weekends becomes one of Yaletown’s happening late-night scenes. Opus’s top-notch restaurant, Elixir (p. 70), serves French brasserie food; if you just want a latte and a croissant, pop into the cute little cafe. A hotel car is available to take you around the city. 322 Davie St., Vancouver, BC V6B 5Z6. & 866/642-6787 or 604/642-6787. Fax 604/642-6780. www.opushotel.com. 96 units. May–Oct C$229–C$529 (US$172– US$397) double, C$429–C$800 (US$322–US$600) suite; Nov–Apr C$179–C$449 (US$134–US$359) double, C$329–C$650 (US$247–US$487) suite. Children 17 and under stay free in parent’s room. Pets accepted. AE, DC, MC, V. Valet parking C$20 (US$15). Amenities: Restaurant; bar; cardio room; concierge; 24-hr. room service; complimentary car service; laundry service; dry cleaning; nonsmoking rooms. In room: A/C, TV w/pay movies, dataport w/high-speed Internet, minibar, coffeemaker, hair dryer, iron, safe.

Pan Pacific Hotel Vancouver Since its completion in 1986, this 23-story luxury hotel atop the Vancouver Convention Centre

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has become a key landmark on the Vancouver waterfront; Canada Place, with its distinctive five white sails, and the cruise-ship terminal are literally at your door step. Guest rooms begin on the ninth floor, above a huge and rather ponderous lobby with a wall of glass overlooking the mountains and the harbor. Superior rooms face the city and offer a partial waterfront view. For the best views, book a deluxe room and you can wake to see the sun glinting on the mountains of the North Shore and the floatplanes drifting in with a morning tide of commuters. All rooms are spacious, with picture windows adding to the brightness. Bathrooms are large and luxurious. The hotel boasts an outstanding health club (C$15/US$11 daily fee), with classes, cardio room, Universal gym, small inside track, and squash courts. This hotel is incredibly convenient if you’re taking a cruise or attending a convention, but the vastness of it can make you feel a bit swamped. The Five Sails Restaurant (p. 65) is the hotel’s fine-dining option. 300–999 Canada Place, Vancouver, BC V6C 3B5. & 800/937-1515 in the U.S., or 604/662-8111. Fax 604/685-8690. www.panpacific.com. 504 units. May–Oct C$490–C$590 (US$368–US$443) double; Nov–Apr C$390–C$450 (US$293– US$338) double; C$650–C$3,500 (US$488–US$2,625) suite year-round. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Parking C$21 (US$16). Amenities: 3 restaurants; bar; outdoor heated pool; health club; spa; Jacuzzi; sauna; concierge; tour desk; car rental; business center; shopping arcade; 24-hr. room service; massage; babysitting; laundry service; same-day dry cleaning; nonsmoking floors; squash court. In room: A/C, TV w/pay movies, dataport w/high-speed Internet, minibar, coffeemaker, hair dryer, iron, safe.

The tallest—and at 736 rooms the largest—hotel in the city, the Wall Centre is hard to miss. Completed in 2001, the hotel occupies a curved spire of black glass and a second, earlier tower with a fountain-filled urban garden between. It may remind you of a futuristic corporate office park, a feeling that’s unfortunately reinforced in the rooms, which have floor-to-ceiling polarized glass windows that look out onto great views but can’t be opened, so it’s like you’re always wearing sunglasses. This is upscale Sheraton at its best (or worst, if you hate huge hotels), and because of its size it caters to a lot of tour groups. The hotel features a vast lobby with some nice touches such as a gold-leaf staircase, custom-designed furniture, and hand-blown glass chandeliers. The guest rooms have a clean, contemporary look with blond-wood furnishings and nice bathrooms. Guests have the use of a 12,000-square-foot state-of-the-art health club with an indoor pool; an Ayurvedic Wellness Spa is attached.

Sheraton Vancouver Wall Centre Hotel

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1088 Burrard St., Vancouver, BC V6Z 2R9. & 800/325-3535 or 604/331-1000. Fax 604/893-7200. www.sheratonwallcentre.com. 733 units. C$299 (US$224) double (average cost; call for additional rates). AE, DC, MC, V. Valet parking C$19 (US$14). Amenities: 2 restaurants; 2 bars; indoor pool; health club; spa; Jacuzzi; sauna; concierge; tour desk; business center; salon; 24-hr. room service; same-day laundry and dry cleaning; nonsmoking rooms; executive-level rooms. In room: A/C, TV w/pay movies, high-speed Internet, minibar, coffeemaker, hair dryer, iron, safe, bathrobes.

The Sutton Place Hotel Don’t let the bland corporatelooking exterior fool you. Once you enter the lobby of this centrally located hotel, it’s pure luxury, comparable to the Four Seasons (reviewed above). The lobby is elegantly decorated with marble, fresh flowers, chandeliers, and French-leaning European furnishings. The rooms here don’t skimp on size or comfort and are tastefully decorated in a traditional European style. The one- or two-bedroom junior suites have a small parlor. In larger suites, French doors separate the bedroom from the large sitting area. There’s a European-style health club and spa with a big heated pool and sun deck. The Fleuri restaurant serves French Continental cuisine. The hotel has won many awards and made it onto Condé Nast’s 2004 Gold List of the best places to stay in the world. 845 Burrard St., Vancouver, BC V6Z 2K6. & 800/961-7555 or 604/682-5511. Fax 604/682-5513. www.suttonplace.com. 397 units. May–Oct C$267–C$464 (US$200–US$348) double, C$324–C$1,900 (US$243–US$1,425) suite; Nov–Apr C$195–C$308 (US$127–US$224) double, C$265–C$1,200 (US$199–US$900) suite. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Underground self- or valet parking C$22 (US$16). Bus: 22. Amenities: Restaurant; lounge (with bistro fare); bakery-cafe; indoor pool; health club; full-service spa; Jacuzzi; sauna; complimentary bikes; children’s program; concierge; business center; 24-hr. room service; laundry service; same-day drycleaning service; nonsmoking rooms; pets welcome (1-time cleaning fee of C$150/US$113 per stay). In room: A/C, TV w/pay movies, high-speed Internet, dataport, minibar, hair dryer, iron, safe.

Wedgewood Hotel If you’re searching for a romantic, sophisticated hotel with superb service, spacious rooms, fine detailing, a good restaurant, a full-service spa, and a central downtown location, you can’t do any better than the Wedgewood. One of the things that makes the award-winning Wedgewood so distinctive is that it’s independently owned (by Greek-born Eleni Skalbania), and the owner’s elegant personal touch is evident throughout. All 83 units are spacious and have balconies (the best views are those facing the Vancouver Art Gallery and Law Court; avoid the rooms that look out over the back of the hotel). Furnishings and antiques are of the highest quality and the marble-clad bathrooms with deep soaker tubs and separate walk-in Roman showers are simply the best. The

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penthouse suite on the 12th floor comes with a fireplace, a large patio, and a luxurious master bedroom. The Wedgewood attracts celebrities, business travelers, visiting dignitaries, and lawyers and judges from the Law Courts; many patrons come for the luxurious spa services. Bacchus, the cozy and inviting hotel restaurant, serves a fairly traditional menu of fish, pasta, and meat. In 2004, Travel + Leisure readers ranked the Wedgewood fifth in the world and the best in Canada for value. Note that the entirety of this hotel is nonsmoking. 845 Hornby St., Vancouver, BC V6Z 1V1. & 800/663-0666 or 604/689-7777. Fax 604/608-5349. www.wedgewoodhotel.com. 83 units. May–Sept C$295–C$400 (US$244–US$300) double, C$600–C$900 (US$450–US$675) suite; Oct–Apr C$225–C$400 (US$169–US$300) double, C$500–C$800 (US$375–US$600) suite. AE, DC, MC, V. Valet parking C$15 (US$11). Amenities: Restaurant; small weight room; spa; concierge; business center; 24-hr. room service; laundry service; dry cleaning; executive rooms. In room: A/C, TV w/pay movies, VCR, dataport w/highspeed Internet, minibar, coffeemaker, hair dryer, iron, safe, CD player. Kids It’s such a pleasure to find a new luxury-level hotel that’s elegant instead of garish, and understated rather than pompous. Completed in 1999 and located across from the new public library and next to the Centre for the Performing Arts, the Westin Grand offers high-end all-suite accommodations within easy walking distance of Yaletown, GM Place, and Robson shopping. The spacious suites are brightened by the natural light pouring in through the floor-to-ceiling windows; if you can, spring for one of the deluxe nos. -09 or -03 units, which have balconies. Sitting rooms come with a sleekly designed concealed kitchenette, and bedrooms feature Westin’s trademark Heavenly beds. The furnishings throughout are clean-lined and contemporary; the deluxelevel marble-clad bathrooms have separate tub and shower. Rooms for travelers with disabilities are also available. There’s a great 24hour on-site gym with an outdoor lap pool. Kids get a special welcome kit and there are special kids’ menus in Aria restaurant.

The Westin Grand

433 Robson St., Vancouver, BC V6B 6L9. & 888/680-9393 or 604/602-1999. Fax 604/647-2502. www.westingrandvancouver.com. 207 suites. May–Sept C$189– C$429 (US$142–US$322) suite; Oct–Apr C$158–C$329 (US$119–US$247) suite. Up to 2 children under 17 stay free in parent’s room. Additional person C$30 (US$23) extra. Pets accepted, C$50 (US$38) deposit. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Self-parking C$15 (US$11); valet parking C$19 (US$14). Amenities: Restaurant; outdoor pool; excellent health club; Jacuzzi; sauna; children’s program; concierge; business center; 24-hr. room service; in-room massage; babysitting; laundry service; sameday dry cleaning; nonsmoking rooms; executive rooms. In room: A/C, TV w/pay movies, dataport, kitchenette, minibar, coffeemaker, hair dryer, iron, safe.

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MODERATE Best Western Downtown Vancouver The 12-story Best Western is just a 5-block walk from the theater area on Granville Street at the south end of downtown. All rooms are comfortable, and some have harbor views. The corner rooms are a bit smaller than the rest, but they do have more light. This hotel is not overflowing with facilities, but the rooms are well furnished and the location is convenient. Accommodations with a full kitchen are available for an additional C$20 to C$25 (US$15–US$19). Bear in mind, however, that while quite safe, this is still a very bohemian, nightlife-oriented, downtown neighborhood. You shouldn’t book here unless you have a reasonable tolerance for the tattooed and the pierced. 718 Drake St. (at Granville St.), Vancouver, BC V6Z 2W6. & 888/669-9888 or 604/669-9888. Fax 604/669-3440. www.bestwesterndowntown.com. 143 units, 32 with full kitchen. C$139–C$209 (US$104–US$157) double; C$280–C$350 (US$210–US$263) penthouse. Rates include deluxe continental breakfast. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Parking C$6 (US$4.50). Amenities: Restaurant; rooftop exercise room; Jacuzzi; sauna; game room; tour desk; shuttle service to downtown; babysitting; laundry service; nonsmoking rooms; corporate rooms. In room: A/C, TV/VCR, dataport, coffeemaker, hair dryer, iron, safe.

Situated in a heritage building dating back to 1910, the well-maintained Days Inn Downtown is conveniently located in the heart of Vancouver’s financial district and within easy walking distance to just about everything. For travelers who don’t need all the amenities of a large hotel, these small, simply furnished, motel-like rooms are comfortable. Ten of the rooms have showers only. Request a water view or consider a harbor-facing suite; rooms facing east stare directly at the concrete walls of the building next door.

Days Inn Downtown

921 W. Pender St., Vancouver, BC V6C 1M2. & 800/329-7466 or 604/681-4335. Fax 604/681-7808. www.daysinnvancouver.com. 85 units, 10 with shower only. May–Oct C$149–C$189 (US$112–US$142) double, C$209 (US$157) suite; Nov–Apr C$105–C$125 (US$79–US$94) double, C$155 (US$116) suite. AE, DC, V. Valet parking C$10 (US$7.50). Amenities: Restaurant; bar; concierge; laundry service; same-day dry cleaning; nonsmoking rooms. In room: A/C, TV w/pay movies, dataport w/high-speed Internet, fridge, coffeemaker, hair dryer, iron, safe, complimentary newspaper. Value This modern, 14-story brick hotel dating from 1984 is extremely well located, just a block or two from BC Place Stadium, GM Place Stadium, the Queen Elizabeth Theatre, the Playhouse, and the Vancouver Public Library. You can walk to Robson Square in about 10 minutes. The guest rooms are

Georgian Court Hotel

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relatively large, nicely decorated, and have good-size bathrooms. And while the big-time celebs are usually whisked off to the glamorous top hotels, their entourages often stay at the Georgian Court, as it provides all the amenities and business-friendly extras such as two phones in every room, brightly lighted desks, and complimentary high-speed Internet access, a service that other hotels almost always charge for. 773 Beatty St., Vancouver, BC V6B 2M4. & 800/663-1155 or 604/682-5555. Fax 604/682-8830. www.georgiancourt.com. 180 units. May 1–Oct 15 C$165–C$215 (US$124–US$161) double; Oct 16–Apr 30 C$115–C$160 (US$86–US$120) double. AE, DC, MC, V. Parking C$9 (US$7). Amenities: Restaurant; bar; health club; Jacuzzi; sauna; concierge; business center; limited room service; babysitting; laundry service; dry cleaning; nonsmoking rooms. In room: A/C, TV, dataport w/highspeed Internet, minibar, hair dryer, iron. Kids The Mexican theme may seem out of place in Vancouver, but it works at this hotel. The Inn at False Creek is a boutique hotel decorated with Mexican art, pottery, and rugs, in a kind of Santa Fe style. Room decor consists of dark green, terra-cotta, and earth tones, and brick for a touch of authenticity. The spacious suites are great for families—15 have full kitchens, and a number of others have glassed-in balconies, which double as enclosed play areas (the hotel staff keeps a supply of board games and puzzles behind the front desk). Rooms on the back side are preferable because the hotel is situated beside the Granville Bridge on-ramp. The traffic noise is minimized in the front, however, by double-pane windows and blackout curtains.

Quality Hotel Downtown/The Inn at False Creek

1335 Howe St. (at Drake St.), Vancouver, BC V6Z 1R7. & 800/663-8474 or 604/ 682-0229. Fax 604/662-7566. www.qualityhotel.ca. 157 units. May–Sept C$159 (US$119) double, C$189–C$209 (US$142–US$157) suite; Oct–Apr C$89 (US$67) double, C$109 (US$82) suite. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Parking C$10 (US$7.50). Amenities: Restaurant; bar; outdoor pool; access to nearby health club; Jacuzzi; sauna; concierge; tour desk; car rental; limited room service; babysitting; dry cleaning; nonsmoking rooms; executive-level rooms. In room: A/C, TV, dataport, coffeemaker, hair dryer, iron, safe. Value Kids Located directly across the street from Library Square, the Rosedale provides good value for the money, particularly when it comes to amenities. All rooms are one- or two-bedroom suites and feature separate living rooms with a pullout couch and full kitchenettes. Very family friendly, the Rosedale offers designated two-bedroom family suites: the kids’ bedrooms are furnished with bunk beds and contain a large toy chest. The lobby is oddly laid out and starting to look dated,

Rosedale on Robson Suite Hotel

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even though the hotel is less than 10 years old. There’s a small gym with an indoor pool. The hotel does a lot of business with tour groups, particularly Australians. 838 Hamilton (at Robson St.), Vancouver, BC V6B 6A2. & 800/661-8870 or 604/689-8033. Fax 604/689-4426. www.rosedaleonrobson.com. 275 units. May– Sept C$205–C$285 (US$154–US$214) suite; Oct–Apr C$145–C$185 (US$94– US$139) suite. Additional adult C$20 (US$15). Rates include continental breakfast. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Parking C$8 (US$6). Pets accepted, C$10 (US$7.50). Amenities: Restaurant; indoor lap pool; exercise room; Jacuzzi; sauna; steam room; children’s programs; concierge; business center; limited room service; babysitting; laundry service; dry cleaning; nonsmoking rooms; executive-level rooms. In room: A/C, TV w/pay movies, fax, dataport, kitchenette, coffeemaker, hair dryer, iron.

INEXPENSIVE Hostelling International Vancouver Downtown Hostel

Located in a converted nunnery, this modern curfew-free hostel offers an extremely convenient base of operations from which to explore downtown. The beach is a few blocks south; downtown is a 10-minute walk north. Most beds are in quad dorms, with a limited number of doubles and triples available. Except for two rooms with a private bathroom, all bathroom facilities are shared. Rooms and facilities are accessible for travelers with disabilities. There are common cooking facilities, as well as a rooftop patio and game room. The hostel is extremely busy in the summertime, so book ahead. Many organized activities such as ski packages and tours can be booked at the hostel. There’s also free shuttle service to the bus/train station and Jericho Beach. 1114 Burnaby St. (at Thurlow St.), Vancouver, BC V6E 1P1. & 888/203-4302 or 604/684-4565. Fax 604/684-4540. www.hihostels.ca. 68 rooms, 44 4-person shared dorm rooms, 24 double or triple private rooms. C$20–C$24 (US$15–US$18) dorm IYHA members, C$24–C$28 (US$18–US$21) dorm nonmembers; C$55–C$57 (US$41–US$43) double members, C$64–C$66 (US$48–US$50) double nonmembers. Annual adult membership C$38 (US$28). MC, V. Limited free parking. Amenities: Bike rental; game room; coin laundry; activities desk. In room: No phone.

Howard Johnson Hotel Value As yet another example of south Granville’s ongoing gentrification, this formerly down-at-the-heels hotel was bought, gutted, renovated, and reopened with an eye to the budget-conscious traveler. Hallways are decorated with photographs of Vancouver’s early days, while the rooms are simply and adequately furnished; to get any kind of view, request a unit facing onto Granville. The rooms here are moderately larger than at the Ramada across the street, and more comfortable. The suites have kitchenettes and sofa beds, convenient for families. Bear in mind,

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however, that while quite safe, this is still a fringy downtown neighborhood where you’ll see panhandlers and street kids. 1176 Granville St., Vancouver, BC V6Z 1L8. & 888/654-6336 or 604/688-8701. Fax 604/688-8335. www.hojovancouver.com. 110 units. May C$89–C$119 (US$67– US$89) double, C$129–C$169 (US$97–US$127) suite; June–Sept C$139–C$159 (US$104–US$119) double, C$169–C$209 (US$127–US$157) suite; Oct–Apr C$69–C$99 (US$52–US$79) double, C$109–C$149 (US$82–US$112) suite. Children under 16 stay free in parent’s room. In low season, rates include full breakfast. AE, DC, MC, V. Parking C$14 (US$10). Amenities: Restaurant; bar; access to nearby health club; concierge; tour desk; laundry service; same-day dry cleaning; nonsmoking rooms. In room: A/C, TV w/pay movies, dataport, coffeemaker, hair dryer, iron, safe, newspaper. Finds Value An affordable downtown hotel is a rarity for Vancouver; but if you can do without the frills, The Kingston offers a clean, safe, inexpensive place to sleep and a complimentary continental breakfast to start your day. You won’t find a better deal anywhere, and the premises have far more character than you’ll find in a cookie-cutter motel. The Kingston is a Vancouver version of the kind of small budget B&B hotels found all over Europe. Just 9 of the 55 rooms have private bathrooms and TVs. The rest have hand basins and the use of shared showers and toilets on each floor. In 2004 the hotel added a new lobby, breakfast room, pub-restaurant, and garden patio. The premises are well kept, the location so central you can walk everywhere, the staff is friendly and helpful, and if you’re just looking for a place to sleep and stow your bags, you’ll be glad you found this find.

The Kingston Hotel

757 Richards St., Vancouver, BC V6B 3A6. & 888/713-3304 or 604/684-9024. Fax 604/684-9917. www.kingstonhotelvancouver.com. 55 units, 9 with private bathroom. C$58–C$78 (US$44–US$58) double with shared bathroom; C$98–C$155 (US$73–US$116) double with bathroom. Extra person C$10 (US$7.50). Rates include continental breakfast. AE, MC, V. Parking C$15 (US$11) across the street. Amenities: Restaurant; bar; sauna; coin-operated laundry; nonsmoking rooms. In room: TV (in units w/private bathrooms), no phone.

Ramada Inn and Suites The Ramada, like the Howard Johnson across the street from it (reviewed above), was recently converted from a rooming house into a tourist hotel. The motel-like rooms have dark-wood furniture and small desks; for any kind of view, you need to ask for a room facing Granville; otherwise, you may be looking out at a wall. Suites feature a sofa bed, kitchenette, and small dining area, making them useful for families. The location is convenient for exploring downtown and Yaletown, as well as hopping over to Granville Island or Kitsilano. Guests have full access to a nearby sports club. Bear in mind that South Granville, though safe,

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is not a scenic or shopping area; if urban grit is not your thing, don’t book here. 1221 Granville St., Vancouver, BC V6Z 1M6. & 888/835-0078 or 604/685-1111. Fax 604/685-0707. www.ramadavancouver.com. 116 units. C$69–C$259 (US$52– US$194) double; C$89–C$289 (US$67–US$217) suite. Children under 17 stay free in parent’s room. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Valet parking C$10 (US$7.50). Pets accepted for C$20 (US$15) per night. Amenities: Restaurant; bar/lounge; access to nearby sports club; laundry service; nonsmoking rooms. In room: A/C, TV w/pay movies, dataport, kitchenette (in suites), coffeemaker, hair dryer, iron. Value YWCA Hotel/Residence Built in 1995, this attractive 12-story residence next door to the Georgian Court Hotel is an excellent choice for travelers (male, female, families) on limited budgets. Bedrooms are simply furnished; some have TVs. There are quite a few reasonably priced restaurants nearby (but none inhouse). Three communal kitchens are available for guests’ use and all guest rooms have minifridges. (There are a number of grocery stores nearby.) The Y has three TV lounges and free access to the best gym in town at the nearby co-ed YWCA Fitness Centre.

733 Beatty St., Vancouver, BC V6B 2M4. & 800/663-1424 or 604/895-5830. Fax 604/681-2550. www.ywcahotel.com. 155 units, 53 with private bathroom. C$56– C$86 (US$42–US$65) double with shared bathroom; C$75–C$113 (US$56–US$90) double with bathroom. Additional person C$5 (US$3.75). Weekly, monthly, group, and off-season discounts available. AE, MC, V. Parking C$6 (US$4.50). Amenities: Access to YWCA facility; coin-operated laundry; nonsmoking rooms. In room: A/C, TV in some rooms, dataport, fridge, hair dryer.

2 The West End About a 10-minute walk from the downtown area, the West End’s hotels are nestled amid the tree-lined, garden-filled residential streets bordering Stanley Park. Have no fear: You will not be out of the loop if you stay in the West End, though the area’s relaxed, beachy ambience is very different from downtown. Within minutes you can be on Robson or Denman Street, both of them chockablock with shops and restaurants, at beautiful English Bay or Second Beach, or in Stanley Park. Though there are fewer hotels here than downtown, the choices in the West End are more diverse—and so are the people who live in this densely populated section of Vancouver.

EXPENSIVE Listel Vancouver What makes the Listel unique is Finds its artwork. Hallways and suites on the top two floors are decorated with original artworks from the Buschlen Mowatt Gallery

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(Vancouver’s pre-eminent international gallery), or with artifacts from the UBC Anthropology Museum. In addition, this Listel has a killer location, right at the western end of the Robson Street shopping and restaurant strip. The interior of this boutique hotel much favored by business travelers is luxurious without being flashy. Rooms feature top-quality bedding and handsome furnishings. The roomy upper-floor suites facing Robson Street, with glimpses of the harbor and the mountains beyond, are the best bets here. Each is individually decorated with handsome, hand-picked pieces of furniture, and some have cozy window banquettes. (Rooms at the back face the alley and nearby apartment buildings.) Some bathrooms are larger than others, with separate soaker tub and shower. In the evenings, you can hear live jazz at O’Doul’s, the hotel’s restaurant and bar; during the Vancouver International Jazz Festival in late June, it’s the scene of late-night jam sessions with world-renowned musicians. Smokers look elsewhere, however, as the Listel is entirely smoke-free. 1300 Robson St., Vancouver, BC V6E 1C5. & 800/663-5491 or 604/684-8461. Fax 604/684-7092. www.listel-vancouver.com. 129 units. May–Sept C$260 (US$195) standard double, C$320 (US$240) gallery room double, C$600 (US$450) suite; Oct–Apr C$220 (US$165) standard double, C$260 (US$195) gallery room double, C$350 (US$263) suite. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Parking C$19 (US$14). Amenities: Restaurant; bar; exercise room; Jacuzzi; concierge; limited room service; same-day laundry/dry cleaning; executive-level rooms. In room: A/C, TV w/pay movies, dataport w/high-speed Internet, minibar, coffeemaker, hair dryer, iron.

Pacific Palisades Hotel Walk into the Pacific PalFinds isades lobby and you know right away that this is not just another standard-issue hotel. The designer’s theme throughout this Kimpton Group property was “South Park (Florida, not the TV series) meets Stanley Park.” Sherbet yellows and apple greens with pastelcolored fabrics, bright splashes of color, and whimsical touches make the hotel bright and welcoming to the young and the young at heart (the ubiquitous rock music playing in the lobby can be upbeat or annoying, depending on your mood and musical tastes). Guest rooms, spread out over two towers dating from 1969, are spacious, airy, and equipped with kitchenettes (with minibar items priced at corner-store prices). The one-bedroom suites boast large living/dining rooms and balconies. A few other perks that make this hotel a worthwhile choice are the complimentary afternoon wine tasting in the attached art gallery, the complimentary yoga program (free mat, strap, block, and instruction video), the kid-friendly atmosphere (you can buy yo-yos from the minibar), the large indoor

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pool and fitness rooms, and the fact that pets stay free (a rarity in Vancouver, where there’s usually a cleaning charge). Plus, you’re right on trendsetting Robson Street, minutes from beaches, shopping, cafes, and restaurants. Zin (p. 81) is a cool spot for a drink and dinner; the hotel staff is warm, friendly, and helpful. All in all, it’s really hard not to like this place. 1277 Robson St., Vancouver, BC V6E 1C4. & 800/663-1815 or 604/688-0461. Fax 604/688-4374. www.pacificpalisadeshotel.com. 233 units. May 1–Oct 15 C$245 (US$184) double, C$275 (US$206) suite; Oct 16–Apr 30 C$185 (US$139) double, C$275 (US$206) suite. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Valet parking C$26 (US$19). Amenities: Restaurant; bar; indoor lap pool; excellent health club; spa services; Jacuzzi; sauna; bike rentals; concierge; tour desk; business center; 24-hr. room service; massage; babysitting; coin laundry and laundry service; same-day dry cleaning; nonsmoking rooms; basketball court; yoga program. In room: A/C, TV, dataport w/high-speed Internet, kitchenette, minibar, fridge, coffeemaker, hair dryer, iron, bathrobes.

Vancouver Marriott Pinnacle Hotel Open since 2000, the high-rise Pinnacle gleams and glows between the West End and Coal Harbour, close to Stanley Park, the waterfront, and the cruiseship terminal. The rooms are designed to maximize the light and the views, though the views are often partially obstructed by surrounding high-rises (you can pay C$35/US$26 and upgrade to a better view). The rooms in general are fine, fitted up with all the things business travelers expect, but the decor is remarkably bland for a new hotel. Bathrooms are fairly large and well designed with a tub and separate shower. If you can, score one of the no. -19 rooms (2019, 2119, 2219, and so on); these oval-shaped units max out the window space and offer endless views, plus they’re the largest rooms. Upgrade to the Concierge Level for C$10 (US$7.50) and you get a nice lounge with complimentary continental breakfast and evening hors d’oeuvres. 1128 W. Hastings St., Vancouver, BC V6E 4R5. & 800/268-1133 or 604/684-1128. Fax 604/298-1128. www.vancouvermarriottpinnacle.com. 434 units. C$179–C$319 (US$139–US$239) double. Children 18 and under stay free in parent’s room. AE, DC, MC, V. Self-parking C$20 (US$15); valet parking C$24 (US$18). SkyTrain to Burrard Station. Amenities: Restaurant; bar; indoor lap pool; health club; Jacuzzi; sauna; concierge; business center; 24-hr. room service; laundry; same-day dry cleaning service; nonsmoking rooms; executive-level rooms. In room: A/C, TV w/pay movies, dataport, minibar, coffeemaker, hair dryer, iron, safe. Kids Westin Bayshore Resort & Marina This is the only resort hotel in Vancouver and it has its own marina in case you want to arrive by boat. The enormous lobby with its acres of marble and huge fireplace makes for an impressive entry to this venerable hotel, which recently underwent a C$55-million (US$41-million)

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renovation. Perched on the water’s edge overlooking Stanley Park on one side and the city and Coal Harbour marina on the other, the Bayshore is just a short stroll from Canada Place Pier and downtown. The finishes throughout are top quality, and the size of the hotel (which includes a new conference center) makes it like a small city. Rooms in the original 1961 building have been completely refurbished with classic-looking decor, high-tech amenities, comfortable lighting, and floor-to-ceiling windows that open wide. In the newer tower, the rooms are spacious and bright with balconies and large windows. The circular outdoor pool is reputedly the largest in North America; there’s a second indoor pool plus a full gym; all manner of spa treatments are available. This family-friendly hotel provides children with their own welcome package and organizes Super Saturdays, a behind-the-scenes tour of the hotel’s operations and movie night for the young ones, giving the parents the night off. 1601 Bayshore Dr., Vancouver, BC V6G 2V4. & 800/937-8461 or 604/682-3377. Fax 604/687-3102. www.westinbayshore.com. 510 units. C$360–C$470 (US$270– US$352) double; C$550–C$695 (US$412–US$521) suite. Children under 19 stay free in parent’s room. AE, DC, MC, V. Self-parking C$18 (US$14); valet parking C$20 (US$15). Pets accepted. Amenities: 2 restaurants; bar; indoor and outdoor pool; full-service spa; health club; Jacuzzi; sauna; watersports rental; children’s programs; concierge; tour desk; business center; shopping arcade; 24-hr. room service; massage; babysitting; laundry service; same-day dry cleaning; nonsmoking rooms. In room: A/C, TV w/pay movies, dataport w/high-speed Internet, minibar, coffeemaker, hair dryer, iron.

MODERATE The Aston Rosellen Suites at Stanley Park StayFinds Kids ing at The Aston Rosellen is like having your own apartment in the West End. Stanley Park and the seawall are just a few blocks away and busy Denman Street, with its many restaurants and shops, is just 3 blocks east. Converted into a hotel to meet the demand for rooms during the 1986 Expo, the Rosellen has remained a favorite among travelers, with a high rate of repeat guests. The hotel offers a no-frills stay; the lobby is open only during office hours, and guests receive their own key. The largest apartment—1,150 square feet— is known as the director’s suite, with two bedrooms, a large dining room, and a spacious kitchen. The remaining apartments are smaller, but none of them really skimps on size. The one-bedroom suites sleep four comfortably, and all units come with fully equipped kitchens, making them a great option for families. A 3-night minimum stay is required; rates drop for longer stays.

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100–2030 Barclay St., Vancouver, BC V6G 1L5. & 888/317-6648 or 604/689-4807. Fax 604/684-3327. www.rosellensuites.com. 31 units. May–Sept C$199 (US$149) 1-bedroom apt, C$249–C$299 (US$187–US$224) 2-bedroom apt, C$399 (US$299) penthouse; Oct–Apr C$139 (US$104) 1-bedroom apt, C$169–C$229 (US$127– US$172) 2-bedroom apt, C$299 (US$224) penthouse. Minimum 3-night stay. Rates include up to 4 people in a 1-bedroom apt and 6 in a 2-bedroom apt. Cots and cribs free. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Limited parking C$5 (US$3.75); reserve when booking room. Pets C$15 (US$11). Amenities: Access to nearby health club and tennis courts; coin laundry; nonsmoking rooms. In room: TV, dataport, kitchen, coffeemaker, hair dryer, iron.

Barclay House in the West End The Barclay House, Finds located on one of the West End’s quiet maple-lined streets just a block from historic Barclay Square, opened as a bed-and-breakfast in 1999. Built in 1904 by a local developer, this beautiful house can be a destination on its own. The elegant parlors and dining rooms are perfect for lounging on a rainy afternoon or sipping a glass of complimentary sherry before venturing out for dinner in the trendy West End. On a summer day, the front porch with its wooden Adirondack chairs makes a cozy place to read. All rooms are beautifully furnished in Victorian style; a number of the pieces are family heirlooms. Modern conveniences such as CD players, TV/VCRs, and luxurious bathrooms blend in perfectly. The Penthouse offers skylights, a fireplace, and claw-foot tub; the South Room contains a queen-size brass bed and an elegant sitting room. 1351 Barclay St., Vancouver, BC V6E 1H6. & 800/971-1351 or 604/605-1351. Fax 604/605-1382. www.barclayhouse.com. 5 units. C$125–C$230 (US$79–US$172) double. MC, V. Free parking. Amenities: Access to nearby fitness center; concierge; massage; nonsmoking rooms. In room: TV/VCR w/pay movies, fridge, hair dryer, iron, video library. Value This 31-story high-rise built in the 1960s has a great location on Robson Street, just a block from the trendier Pacific Palisades and the tonier Listel Vancouver (see above for both). It’s cheaper than those places, and has views that are just as good if not better, but it lacks their class and feels a bit like a highrise motel. The rooms are fairly spacious, though, and every room is on a corner with wraparound windows, which maximizes the light and the view; every room has a small balcony, too. In 2000, the hotel renovated all its guest rooms, giving them a clean, contemporary look. Bathrooms are on the small side and have tubs with showers. Upgrade to a Superior room on the 15th floor or higher and you’ll get the most breathtaking views looking north towards the mountains or west towards English Bay. If you’re superecology-minded, book a room on the “Green Floor,” which features

Blue Horizon

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energy-efficient lighting, low-flow showerheads, and recycling bins. If you’re a nonsmoker, make sure you ask for a nonsmoking room. 1225 Robson St., Vancouver, BC V6E 1C3. & 800/663-1333 or 604/688-1411. Fax 604/688-4461. www.bluehorizonhotel.com. 214 units. C$119–C$179 (US$89– US$134) double; C$129–C$199 (US$97–US$149) Superior double. Children under 16 stay free in parent’s room. AE, DC, MC, V. Self-parking C$10 (US$7.50). Amenities: Restaurant; indoor pool; exercise room; Jacuzzi; sauna; concierge; same-day dry cleaning; nonsmoking rooms. In room: A/C, TV w/pay movies, dataport, minibar, fridge, coffeemaker, hair dryer, iron, safe.

Coast Plaza Hotel & Suites Built originally as an apartFinds ment building, this 35-story hotel atop Denman Place Mall attracts a wide variety of guests, from business travelers and bus tours to film and TV actors. They come for the large rooms, affordable one- or two-bedroom suites, and fabulous views of English Bay. The twobedroom corner suites are bigger than most West End apartments and boast spectacular panoramas. The spacious one-bedroom suites and standard rooms feature floor-to-ceiling windows and walk-out balconies; about half the units have full kitchens. Furnishings are plain and comfortable, if a little dated. Though there’s a goodsize heated pool, it’s in a basement room that is not particularly appealing. 1763 Comox St., Vancouver, BC V6G 1P6. & 800/663-1144 or 604/688-7711. Fax 604/688-5934. www.coasthotels.com. 269 units. C$189–C$319 (US$142–US$239) double; C$269–C$369 (US$202–US$277) suite. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Valet parking C$8 (US$6). Pets accepted. Amenities: Restaurant; bar; indoor pool; complimentary access to Denman Fitness Centre in mall below; Jacuzzi; sauna; concierge; free downtown shuttle service; business center; shopping arcade; 24-hr. room service; babysitting; coin laundry; same-day dry cleaning; nonsmoking rooms. In room: A/C, TV, dataport, minibar, fridge, coffeemaker, hair dryer, iron, complimentary newspaper. Value Kids Just a couple of blocks from English Bay on the edge of the residential West End, the Sunset Inn offers spacious accommodations for a very reasonable price. Units are either studios or one-bedroom apartments and come with fully equipped kitchens and small dining tables. Like many other hotels in this part of town, the Sunset Inn started life as an apartment building, which means that the rooms are much bigger than your average hotel room, and all have balconies. The view gets better as the rooms ascend higher, but the price remains the same, so book early or just ask to be put in an upper floor. For those traveling with children, the one-bedroom suites have a separate bedroom and a pullout couch (two in the larger one-bedrooms) in the living room. The rooms on the top two floors have been redone with crisp

Sunset Inn & Suites

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forest-green walls and hardwood furnishings. Lower floors retain a kind of early ’80s pastel look, but are slowly being upgraded. If style matters, request a refurbished unit when making your reservation. 1111 Burnaby St., Vancouver, BC V6E 1P4. & 800/786-1997 or 604/688-2474. Fax 604/669-3340. www.sunsetinn.com. 50 units. C$88–C$188 (US$66–US$141) studio; C$118–C$218 (US$88–US$163) 1-bedroom suite. Extra person C$10 (US$7.50). Children under 12 stay free in parent’s room. Weekly rates available. AE, DC, MC, V. Free parking. Amenities: Exercise room; coin laundry; nonsmoking rooms. In room: TV, dataport, kitchen, coffeemaker, iron.

A heritage home built in 1906, Finds the West End Guest House is a handsome example of what the neighborhood looked like before concrete towers and condos replaced the original Edwardian homes in the early ’50s. Decorated with early-20th-century antiques and a serious collection of vintage photographs of Vancouver taken by the original owners, this is a calm respite from the hustle and bustle of the West End. The seven guest rooms feature feather mattresses, down duvets, and your very own resident stuffed animal. The Grand Queen Suite, an attic-level bedroom with skylights, brass bed, fireplace, sitting area, and clawfoot bathtub, is the best and most spacious room; no. 7 is quite small. Owner Evan Penner pampers his guests with a scrumptious breakfast and serves iced tea and sherry in the afternoon (on the back second-floor balcony in the summer). Throughout the day, guests have access to a pantry stocked with home-baked munchies and refreshments. If you ask nicely, Penner will even crank up the gramophone. This is a nonsmoking facility.

West End Guest House

1362 Haro St., Vancouver, BC V6E 1G2. & 888/546-3327 or 604/681-2889. Fax 604/688-8812. www.westendguesthouse.com. 7 units. C$95–C$255 (US$71– US$191) double. Rates include full breakfast. AE, DISC, MC, V. Free off-street parking. Amenities: Complimentary bikes; business center; laundry service. In room: TV/VCR, dataport, hair dryer.

INEXPENSIVE Value Built in 1926, this three-story building is tucked away on a quiet tree-lined residential street in the West End, less than 2 blocks from Stanley Park and Denman Street and 15 minutes by foot from the business district. Like The Kingston (reviewed earlier in this chapter) downtown, this is a small European-style budget hotel which doesn’t bother with frills or charming decor; unlike the Kingston, however, it isn’t a B&B, so you won’t get breakfast. The standard rooms are quite plain; be prepared for cramped quarters and tiny bathrooms, half of which are shared. The best rooms in the house are the executive rooms. These four

Buchan Hotel

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front-corner rooms are nicely furnished and have private bathrooms. The hotel also offers in-house bike and ski storage as well as a reading lounge. Note that this hotel is nonsmoking. 1906 Haro St., Vancouver, BC V6G 1H7. & 800/668-6654 or 604/685-5354. Fax 604/685-5367. www.buchanhotel.com. 60 units, 30 with private bathroom. C$45–C$75 (US$34–US$56) double with shared bath; C$70–C$95 (US$53–US$71) double with private bath; C$110–C$135 (US$83–US$101) executive room. Children 12 and under stay free in parent’s room. Weekly rates available. AE, DC, MC, V. Limited street parking available. Amenities: Lounge; coin laundry. In room: TV, hair dryer, and iron available on request, no phone. Overrated If the Sylvia were being built today, all its rooms facing onto English Bay would have balconies and probably be outfitted with luxurious appointments. But balconies were rarities back in 1912, when this venerable and much-used hotel appeared in the relatively unpopulated West End, so all you can do is stare out the windows at what is one of the loveliest views in town. Lots of folks love the Sylvia, mostly for its fabulous location, and many are eager to recommend it, but pretty as the old girl is from the outside, inside she’s a bit of a wreck: Tatty carpeting lines the corridors, rooms sometimes smell musty, and in some rooms the mismatched furniture hasn’t been updated in decades. The public spaces are the ugliest you’re likely to encounter in any Vancouver hotel, lost in a kind of garish ’50s lounge style that is so awful it isn’t even camp. That said, you’re not going to find waterfront accommodations anywhere else at Sylvia’s prices. If you do stay, the best rooms are located on the higher floors facing English Bay. The suites have fully equipped kitchens and are large enough for families. The 14-year-old low-rise annex rooms are no better, and offer less atmosphere.

Sylvia Hotel

1154 Gilford St., Vancouver, BC V6G 2P6. & 604/681-9321. Fax 604/682-3551. www.sylviahotel.com. 118 units. May–Sept C$90–C$150 (US$68–US$113) double; Oct–Apr C$75–C$125 (US$56–US$94) double. Children under 18 stay free in parent’s room. AE, DC, MC, V. Parking C$7 (US$5.25). Amenities: Restaurant; bar; concierge; limited room service; dry cleaning; nonsmoking rooms. In room: TV, dataport, hair dryer.

3 The West Side Right across False Creek from downtown and the West End is Vancouver’s West Side. If your agenda includes a Granville Island shopping spree, exploration of the laid-back Kitsilano neighborhood, time at Kits Beach, visiting the fabulous Museum of Anthropology and famed gardens on the University of British Columbia campus, strolls through the sunken garden at Queen Elizabeth Park, or if you

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require close proximity to the airport without staying in an “airport hotel,” you’ll find cozy B&Bs and hotels in this area of Vancouver.

EXPENSIVE Granville Island Hotel One of Vancouver’s best-kept Finds hotel secrets, this hotel is tucked away on the edge of Granville Island in a unique waterfront setting that’s just a short stroll from theaters, galleries, and the fabulous Granville Island public market. Rooms in the original wing are definitely fancier, so book these if you can, but the new wing is fine, too. Rooms are fairly spacious with traditional, unsurprising decor and large bathrooms with soaker tubs; some units have balconies and great views out over False Creek. The best rooms and views are in the Penthouse suites, located in the new wing. The only potential drawback to a stay here is the location. During the daytime when the False Creek ferries are running, it’s a quick ferry ride to Yaletown. After 10pm, however, you’re looking at a C$10 to C$15 (US$7.50–US$11) cab ride or an hour walk. That said, there’s a reasonable amount happening on the Island after dark, and the hotel’s waterside restaurant and brewpub are wonderful spots with outdoor seating. 1253 Johnston St., Vancouver, BC V6H 3R9. & 800/663-1840 or 604/683-7373. Fax 604/683-3061. www.granvilleislandhotel.com. 85 units. Oct–Apr C$150–C$190 (US$120–US$173) double, C$350 (US$143–US$195) penthouse; May–Sept C$220–C$260 (US$165–US$195) double, C$499 (US$338) penthouse. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Parking C$6 (US$4.50). Pets accepted. Amenities: Restaurant; brewpub; access to nearby health club and tennis courts; small exercise room; Jacuzzi; bike rental; concierge; tour desk; car-rental desk; business center; limited room service; massage; babysitting; laundry; same-day dry cleaning; nonsmoking rooms. In room: A/C, TV w/pay movies, dataport w/high-speed Internet, minibar, coffeemaker, hair dryer, iron.

MODERATE A very discreet sign above the front door is Finds the only indication that this handsome 1906 house is a romantic B&B. Surrounded by old trees and located just 2 blocks from the nicest stretch of 4th Avenue in Kitsilano, and a 10-minute walk from Kits Beach, the Edwardian-era house is full of gorgeous period details (lots of wood) and decorated in an age-appropriate style. Three guest rooms are located on the second floor and two lovely studios with separate entrances are tucked away in the back. The Camelot Room features a huge sleigh bed and large Jacuzzi tub beneath a leaded bay window. The somewhat smaller Eden Room sports a queen-size bed, antiques, and a bathroom with large soaker tub. The Camay Room, the smallest, is nice and bright and features

Camelot Inn

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a queen-size bed but only a large shower. The Latvian-born innkeepers serve a very good breakfast. Unusual attention to detail is a hallmark of this find. Please note that the Camelot a nonsmoking facility. 2212 Larch St., Vancouver, BC V6K 3P7. & 604/739-6941. www.camelotinn vancouver.com. 5 units. May–Sept C$140–C$185 (US$105–US$139) double; Oct–Apr C$115–C$154 (US$86–US$115) double. Rates include full breakfast. MC, V. Street parking. Amenities: Nonsmoking facility. In room: TV, small fridge, no phone.

Innkeepers Finds Ron and Sandy Johnson’s eclectic collection of antiques and collectibles is displayed in the nooks and crannies of this 1920 Craftsman home in Vancouver’s quiet Kerrisdale neighborhood, a 15-minute drive from the Vancouver airport and about a 10-minute drive to downtown. The Garden room downstairs is quiet and selfcontained, with big bright windows overlooking a garden brimming with raspberries and blueberries. Upstairs, the small, cozy Sunshine room (shower only) offers a balcony with a view of the back garden, while the larger Mountain View room offers an excellent view of the Lions and the other peaks of the North Shore. And though the private bathroom for the Mountain View is across the hall, it comes with a giant two-person claw-foot tub. Best of all is the Carousel room: It’s large and bright, with a big four-poster brass bed, a slate fireplace, and a generously sized bathroom. A full breakfast is served in the spacious dining room that looks out onto the tree-shaded garden. All rooms are nonsmoking rooms.

Johnson Heritage House Bed & Breakfast

2278 W. 34th Ave., Vancouver, BC V6M 1G6. & 604/266-4175. Fax 604/266-4175. www.johnsons-inn-vancouver.com. 4 units, 1 with shower only. C$125–C$180 (US$94–US$135) double. Rates include full breakfast. No credit cards. Free parking. In room: TV/VCR, dataport w/high-speed Internet, hair dryer, iron.

There’s no sign Finds outside, so from the street this unusual B&B simply looks like the three-story 1926 apartment house that it is. But press button no. 5 as directed, and your hosts will welcome you into their unusual and surprisingly pleasant establishment. There are, in fact, some permanent tenants in the building, but there are also five furnished apartments rented on a B&B basis. Not only is the house in a fantastic location, directly across the street from Kits Beach, one of the most popular spots in Vancouver, but every unit has a view of English Bay, downtown Vancouver, and the Coast Mountains. On the ground floor there’s a newly refurbished and very nice little studio with a Murphy bed; the other suites are much larger, with a living

Kenya Court Ocean Front Guest House

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room, bathroom, separate bedroom (or two), and full kitchen. In the mornings, you climb up a spiral staircase and are served breakfast in a glass-walled solarium on the roof. One thing to keep in mind: In the summer, Kits Beach and Cornwall Avenue running past it are very busy; this can be either a plus or a minus, depending on your point of view. All five apartments are smoke-free. 2230 Cornwall Ave., Vancouver, BC V6K 1B5. & 604/738-7085. h&dwilliams@ telus.net. 5 units. C$155–C$175 (US$116–US$131) double. No credit cards. Garage or street parking. Amenities: Outdoor pool; tennis court and jogging trails nearby. In room: TV, fax, kitchenette, fridge, coffeemaker, hair dryer, iron.

Built in 1912, this house on a quiet residential street is filled with antiques and stained glass. There’s a common room with a fireplace and in summer, breakfast is served in the English-country-style garden filled with trees and fragrant flowers. All the guest rooms are decorated with attractive pine furniture. On the top floor, Abigail’s Suite is bright and self-contained with nice views from both front and back. Bettina’s Room features a fireplace and a balcony with lounge chairs. Sophie’s Room, though smaller, has a nice porch with two wicker chairs overlooking the front garden. Lucinda’s Room—with a private bathroom across the hall— offers the best value of the four. Coffee and a selection of teas, hot chocolate, and freshly baked cookies are always on hand for guests. Fix a cuppa and watch the friendly resident cats at play while you relax.

Penny Farthing Inn

2855 W. Sixth Ave., Vancouver, BC V6K 1X2. & 866/739-9002 or 604/739-9002. Fax 604/739-9004. www.pennyfarthinginn.com. 4 units. C$100–C$150 (US$75– US$112) double; C$150–C$180 (US$112–US$135) suite. Rates include full breakfast. No credit cards. Street parking. Amenities: Free use of bikes; business center; nonsmoking rooms; Internet access in common area. In room: TV/VCR, fridge, coffeemaker, hair dryer, CD player (in suites only).

INEXPENSIVE Hostelling International Vancouver Jericho Beach Hostel

Located in a former military barracks, this hostel is surrounded by an expansive lawn adjacent to Jericho Beach. Individuals, families with children over age 5, and groups are welcome. The 10 private rooms can accommodate up to six people. These particular accommodations go fast; so if you want one, call far in advance. The dormitory-style arrangements are well maintained and supervised. Linens are provided. Basic, inexpensive food is served in the cafe or you have the option of cooking for yourself in the hostel’s kitchen. The hostel’s program director operates tours and activities. This hostel is open May through September only.

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1515 Discovery St., Vancouver, BC V6R 4K5. & 888/203-4303 or 604/224-3208. Fax 604/224-4852. www.hihostels.ca. 286 beds in 14 dorms, 10 private family units. No private bathrooms. C$24 (US$18) dorm IYHA members, C$28 (US$21) dorm nonmembers; C$57 (US$43) double members, C$66 (US$50) double nonmembers. Annual adult membership C$38 (US$28). MC, V. Parking C$3 (US$2.25). Children under 5 not allowed. Amenities: Cafe; bike rental; coin laundry; nonsmoking rooms; activities desk.

The University of British Columbia Conference Centre Finds Value The University of British Columbia is in a

pretty, forested setting on the tip of Point Grey—a convenient location if you plan to spend a lot of time in Kitsilano or at the university itself. If you don’t have a car, it’s a half-hour bus ride from downtown. Although these are student dorms most of the year, rooms are usually available. The rooms are very nice, but don’t expect luxury. The 17-story Walter Gage Residence offers new and comfortable accommodations; many are located on the upper floors with sweeping views of the city and ocean. One- and six-bedroom suites here come equipped with private bathrooms, kitchenettes, TVs, and phones. Each studio suite has a twin bed; each one-bedroom suite features a queen-size bed; the six-bedroom Tower suites—a particularly good deal for families—feature one double bed and five twin beds. Located next door, the year-round Gage Court suites have two twin beds in one bedroom and a queen-size Murphy bed in the sitting room. All rooms are nonsmoking. 5961 Student Union Blvd., Vancouver, BC V6T 2C9. & 604/822-1000. Fax 604/ 822-1001. www.ubcaccommodation.com. About 1,900 units. Gage Towers units available May 10–Aug 26; Pacific Spirit Hostel units available May 15–Aug 19. Gage Towers: C$40–C$69 (US$30–U$52) standard or premium single with shared bathroom; C$99–C$199 (US$74–US$149) studio, 1-, or 6-bedroom suites. Pacific Spirit Hostel: C$24 (US$18) single; C$48 (US$36) double; C$59 (US$44) studio suite with private bathroom. Located adjacent to the Gage Residence, the 47 West Coast Suites are available year-round: May–Aug C$149–C$169 (US$112–US$127) suite; Sept–Apr C$129–C$149 (US$97–US$112) suite. AE, MC, V. Parking C$5 (US$3.75). Bus: 4, 10, or 99. Amenities (nearby on campus): Restaurant; cafeteria; pub; Olympic-size swimming pool; public golf course; tennis courts; weight room; sauna for C$5 (US$3.75) per person; video arcade; laundry. In room: A/C, TV, hair dryer.

4 The North Shore (North Vancouver & West Vancouver) The North Shore cities of North and West Vancouver are pleasant, lush, and much less hurried than Vancouver. Aside from offering cheaper rates than Vancouver proper, staying here puts you in close proximity to the North Shore mountains and its attractions, including hiking trails, the Capilano Suspension Bridge, and the ski slopes

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on Mount Seymour, Grouse Mountain, and Cypress Bowl. The disadvantage is that if you want to take your car into Vancouver, there are only two bridges, and during rush hours they’re painfully slow. The passenger-only SeaBus, however, is quick and fairly scenic.

EXPENSIVE Directly across the Burrard Inlet from the Canada Place Pier, the Lonsdale Quay Hotel sits at the water’s edge above the Lonsdale Quay Market at the SeaBus terminal. An escalator rises from the midst of the market’s food, crafts, and souvenir stalls to the hotel’s front desk on the third floor. This hotel calls itself a boutique hotel but suffers from its 1980s design and some strangely chintzy-looking interior room decor (mostly new as of 2004) that may remind you of a motel. Some rooms have unique harbor and city views, but others have weird wedge-shaped concrete balconies and feel closed in. Lonsdale Quay is not particularly appealing after nightfall, when all the shops have closed. This is a good location, however, if you’re exploring North Vancouver: The hotel is only 15 minutes by bus or car from Grouse Mountain Ski Resort and Capilano Regional Park. The Lonsdale is entirely smoke-free.

Lonsdale Quay Hotel

123 Carrie Cates Court, North Vancouver, BC V7M 3K7. & 800/836-6111 or 604/986-6111. Fax 604/986-8782. www.lonsdalequayhotel.com. 70 units. High season C$125–C$225 (US$94–US$169) double or twin, C$350 (US$263) suite; low season C$90–C$165 (US$68–US$124) double or twin, C$250 (US$188) suite. Extra person C$25 (US$19). Senior discount available. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Parking C$10 (US$7.50); free on weekends and holidays. SeaBus: Lonsdale Quay. Amenities: 2 restaurants; small exercise room; spa; bike rental; concierge; limited room service; babysitting; laundry service; same-day dry cleaning. In room: A/C, TV, dataport, minibar, coffeemaker, hair dryer, iron.

MODERATE Beachside Bed & Breakfast This B&B sits on its own Finds private beach on the shores of English Bay and enjoys a sweeping view of Stanley Park, the Lion’s Gate Bridge, and the skyline of downtown Vancouver. The upstairs common area of this split-level house features wall-to-ceiling windows and binoculars for gazing at the seals and bald eagles and (on rare occasions) killer whales that swim by. There’s also a fireplace, VCR and videos, and lots of good books should the ocean view lose its appeal. Downstairs are two beachfront rooms featuring floor-to-ceiling windows. The Seaside room features a jetted tub for two in a small private bathroom, while the Oceanfront room has a huge private Jacuzzi big enough for six.

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Located out back, the smallest and least expensive of the rooms— Diane’s Room—features a small patio but lacks an ocean view. This is a smoke-free facility. 4208 Evergreen Ave., West Vancouver, BC V7V 1H1. & 800/563-3311 or 604/ 922-7773. Fax 604/926-8073. www.beach.bc.ca. 3 units. C$175–C$250 (US$131– US$188) double. Extra person C$30 (US$23). Rates include breakfast tray. MC, V. Free parking. Bus: 250, 251, 252, or 253. Amenities: Beachside Jacuzzi. In room: TV/VCR w/free videos, wireless Internet, fridge, coffeemaker, hair dryer, iron, microwave.

4 Where to Dine in Vancouver F

oodies, take note: Vancouver is one of North America’s top dining cities, right up there with New York and San Francisco. Estimates place the city’s number of restaurants anywhere from two to five thousand. “Buy local, eat seasonal” is a mantra in Vancouver, probably the West Coast’s pre-eminent city for seafood. You can dine on fresh oysters and superbly prepared local fish any day of the week, and for a fraction of what you’d pay elsewhere. Tasting menus at most of the city’s top restaurants—particularly, West, C, Raincity Grill, Bis Moreno, and Cin Cin—give a brilliant sampling of the best, freshest, and most creative cooking in Vancouver. For those who love to dine out and dine well, Vancouver is a steal. There’s no provincial tax on restaurant meals in British Columbia, but venues add the 7% federal goods and services tax (GST). Reservations are recommended at most restaurants and are essential at the city’s top tables.

1 Downtown & Yaletown VERY EXPENSIVE C SEAFOOD/PACIFIC NORTHWEST Eating at C, Vancouver’s most creative seafood restaurant, is really an experience equivalent to going to the theater or an opera. Since opening in 1997, the popularity of this trendsetter hasn’t flagged for a moment. The waterside location on False Creek is sublime, opening out to a passing parade of boats and people on the seawall; the dining room is a cool white space with painted steel and lots of glass. Ingredients make all the difference here: The chef and his highly knowledgeable staff can tell you not only where every product comes from, but also the name of the boat or farm. Expect exquisite surprises and imaginative preparations: For appetizers, fresh Kushi oysters with a tongue-tickling mignonette fizz, or “virtual smoked” salmon sitting atop a glass vial that releases beechwood smoke essence when the fish is removed, so your nose is included in the show. A piece of hibiscus mousse sits atop fresh sweet Dungeness crab lightly infused

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with chipotle. And so it goes, each course created like a work of art. For a really memorable dining experience, give the chef a chance to show off and order the seven-course sampling menu. Savor the exquisite cuisine and paired wines as you watch the sun go down over the marina. Fabulous! 1600 Howe St. & 604/681-1164. www.crestaurant.com. Reservations recommended. Main courses C$29–C$49 (US$22–US$37); taster box C$35 (US$26); sampling menu C$90 (US$67). AE, DC, MC, V. Dinner daily 5:30–11pm; lunch Mon–Fri 11:30am–2:30pm (May to Labour Day). Valet parking C$7 (US$5.25). Bus: 1 or 2.

Diva at the Met PACIFIC NORTHWEST Diva’s revamped triple-tiered dining room with a giant wall of glass brick in the rear makes for an elegant dining experience, but I wish they’d remove those awful paintings. This is a tony, big-money-hotel restaurant that has to satisfy rich, persnickety customers (divas). The menu draws from the best of local fresh seasonal ingredients and takes a light, international approach to spices and seasonings. Seafood is perhaps the best option. If you arrive in the right season, don’t pass on the Queen Charlotte scallops, the wild sockeye salmon, or the Pacific halibut with artichoke fennel ravioli. Diva’s high-end main courses include meat, fowl, and seafood. You may find cinnamonsmoked duck with white asparagus and morel mushroom risotto, butter poached Nova Scotia lobster tail, or roasted beef tenderloin and glazed short ribs. Ingredients are top-notch. Diva’s wine list is regularly rated one of the best in town. 645 Howe St. & 604/602-7788. www.metropolitan.com. Reservations recommended. Dinner main courses C$26–C$39 (US$20–US$29); lunch C$12–C$23 (US$9–US$17). AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Daily 6:30am–1am. Bus: 4 or 7.

PACIFIC NORTHWEST/SEAFOOD The view of Coal Harbour, Stanley Park, and the Coast Mountains is utterly magic. And somewhat surprisingly, given that this restaurant serves the enormous Pan Pacific Hotel atop Canada Place Convention Centre and cruise-ship terminal, the food at Five Sails is very good, too—inventive without being too clever. Seafood is where the menu really shines. Try the Voyage of Discovery, a fresh seafood platter featuring Pacific prawns, Dungeness crab, clams, and sushi. Other inventive appetizers include an Ahi tuna carpaccio and smoked BC salmon. Main courses feature pan-seared halibut, ovenroasted lobster, crispy sea bass, and a slow-roasted BC sockeye. Duck, beef, and lamb are also on the menu, but I’d recommend to go fish or don’t go at all. The cellar offers a substantial list of wines from BC and around the world.

The Five Sails

Where to Dine in Downtown Vancouver

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999 Canada Place Way, in the Pan Pacific Hotel. & 604/891-2892. Reservations recommended. Main courses C$26–C$45 (US$19–US$34). AE, DC, MC, V. Daily 6–9:30pm (Fri–Sat until 10pm). SkyTrain: Waterfront.

EXPENSIVE Amarcord NORTHERN ITALIAN Traditional Northern Italian cuisine doesn’t get much respect these days, but that’s just what Amarcord does, and so well that it’s worth swearing off mango-corn chutney sauté and rediscovering the joys of freshly made pasta or risotto teamed with a lovingly prepared sauce. Think gnocchi with Italian sausage, fresh tomato and basil, or linguini with mussels, scallops, and tiger prawns. Wines hail from Tuscany and California. The atmosphere is formal without being fussy—a place you could bring your 9-year-old. Service is knowledgeable and very friendly. 104–1168 Hamilton St. & 604/681-6500. Reservations recommended. Main courses C$14–C$20 (US$11–US$15). AE, DC, MC, V. Mon–Fri 11:30am–2:30pm; daily 5–10pm. Closed holidays. Bus: 2.

MODERN ITALIAN This wonderful restaurant opened in 2003 and by the end of the year had won Vancouver Magazine’s Readers’ Choice Award for Best New Restaurant. The minimalist interior is all understated elegance and, delight of delights, the imported Italian chairs are so comfy you can sit for hours. And that’s exactly what you will want to do, because Bis Moreno offers tasting menus from three to seven courses and encourages patrons to linger. There are several menu options and if one course doesn’t suit you, you can substitute something from a different menu. The cooking here is modern Italian that utilizes local products and some French techniques; sauces are clean, never more than two or three ingredients. With the Chef ’s Menu we started with seared foie gras with roasted beets and lavender mignonette, followed by a superlative handmade ravioli stuffed with lobster in a tomato and basil sauce. The free-form lasagna in a basil pesto sauce was delectable, so was the ling cod roasted with fennel pollen and the mint-encrusted lamb loin. The knowledgeable sommelier paired every course with a delicious BC or Italian wine. It was what you’d call a memorable meal.

Bis Moreno

1355 Hornby St. (between Pacific and Drake). & 604/669-2812. Reservations recommended. Tasting menus C$42–C$95 (US$30–US$71) per person. AE, DC, MC, V. Mon–Sat 6–11pm. Bus: 1 or 22.

SEAFOOD Since opening in the fall of 2000, the Blue Water Café in Yaletown has become

Blue Water Café and Raw Bar

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one of Vancouver’s hottest restaurants. If you had to describe this busy, buzzy place in one word it would be fresh, as in fresh, seasonal Pacific seafood (no farmed fish is served). The raw bar offers up succulent sushi, oysters, sashimi, and a range of Asian-inspired seafood dishes. For starters, try the frothy lobster bisque, sea scallops wrapped in prosciutto, or diced razor clams. Main courses depend on whatever is in season: It might be halibut served on a puree of yellow beans, or lightly seared yellowfin tuna in a citrus-pepper crust. The desserts are fabulous, too. Reservations are recommended on weekends, but it’s just as much fun to wait at the bar, watching the sushi maestro at work while you try one of the frozen vodkas or house martinis made with squeezed-to-order fruit juice. 1095 Hamilton St. & 604/688-8078. www.bluewatercafe.net. Reservations recommended. Main courses C$17–C$30 (US$13–US$23). AE, DC, MC, V. Daily 11am–1am (light menu 3–5pm and 11pm–1am). Bus: 2.

Circolo ITALIAN Umberto Menghi was a pioneer in Vancouver’s dining scene, starting some 26 years ago with Il Giardino di Umberto Ristorante (p. 71) and going on to open restaurants in Whistler and a cooking school in Tuscany. Now, with Circolo, he’s moved into trendy Yaletown with a strategy that melds together a restaurant, bar, and bistro with a menu influenced by Florence, Paris, and New York. The result is a kind of international eclecticism that mixes traditional northern Italian and local seafood and utilizes some French techniques. My appetizer of Kushi oysters on the halfshell was sea-fresh and sublime, and a pasta course of risotto ai funghi (risotto with mushrooms) was perfectly done. The prime veal chop that followed was delicious but almost too large to eat. I think this may be the only restaurant in Vancouver that serves tagliata alla fiorentina. The restaurant has a great wine list and offers many wines by the glass. On warm days Circolo’s patio is one of the city’s finest. 1116 Mainland St. & 604/687-1116. www.umberto.com/circolo.htm. Reservations required. Main courses C$13–C$36 (US$10–US$27). AE, DC, MC, V. Mon–Sat 5pm–1am. Closed holidays. Bus: 2.

This dashing Finds SEAFOOD/INTERNATIONAL new Yaletown restaurant opened in May 2004, and quickly became a culinary and people-watching spot of note. The concept at Coast is to offer an extensive variety of coastal seafood from coasts around the world. So, for starters, you might try crab cakes wrapped with scallops, tiger prawn tempura with Asian dipping sauce, or a variety of fresh shucked oysters. After that, you can dig into exotic delights such as Peking style barbecued skate, pan-seared halibut a la Basque

Coast

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(with sautéed clams, mussels, and roasted shallots in a tomato lobster broth), or lobster and scallop fricassee with coastal mushrooms. Fresh fish might include Alaskan Copper River salmon, orange roughy from Australia, sea bass from Chile, or New Zealand swordfish. Meat dishes are also available, including braised lamb shank and grilled tenderloin with lobster. The loft-style dining room is outfitted with a calm, contemporary decor that uses reclaimed fir for tabletops and features a wall of water. 1257 Hamilton St. & 604/685-5010. www.coastrestaurant.ca. Reservations recommended. Main courses C$18–C$26 (US$13–US$19). AE, DC, MC, V. Daily 4:30–11pm. Bus: 1 or 22.

FRENCH A traditional French brasserie just sort of fits in naturally with the culinary internationalism of Yaletown. There are actually three different parts to Elixir, located in the hip Opus Hotel: the velvet room, an enclosed space with dark-wood paneling and red velvet banquettes; the brighter, lighter garden room, more appropriate for an informal breakfast or brunch; and an adjacent dining area that looks like a Left Bank bistro. A horseshoeshaped bar unites and overlooks all three domains. The menu is the same in all three—traditional brasserie food prepared with excellent local ingredients and utilizing a medley of spices culled from former French colonies the world over. For salads, think watercress and endives with rich blue cheese, toasted walnuts, and walnut vinaigrette. For soups, think French onion. For main courses, think Toulouse sausage cassoulet, croque-monsieur, coq au vin, rack of pork, or a beautiful wine-poached sable fish with creamed leeks. The wine list covers a wide swath of the world, not just French vintages. Servers are well trained and very friendly. The pastry chef, as you would expect, excels.

Elixir

350 Davie St. (in the Opus Hotel). & 604/642-0577. www.elixir-opusbar.com. Reservations recommended. Main courses C$12–C$27 (US$9–US$20). AE, DC, MC, V. Daily 6:30–11:30am and 5–11pm (Thurs–Sat until 12:30am); Mon–Fri 11:30am–2:30pm; Sat–Sun brunch 10:30am–2:30pm. Closed holidays. Bus: 1 or 22.

Fiddlehead Joe’s FUSION

Overlooking a marina and the busy entrance to False Creek, just east of the Burrard Bridge, this casual eatery has one of the few outdoor dining patios on the Vancouver seawall. The patio is heated, and that’s where you want to sit, enjoying a casual lunch or the busy brunch on Saturday and Sunday. The scene is as much a part of this place as the fusion-style food. During the day, when Fiddlehead Joe’s is a cafe, you can sit and peoplewatch with a coffee, a sandwich, dessert, or a glass of wine. More

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serious dining begins in the evening. Stick to the simpler dishes here. Tapas offerings might include pan-fried soft-shell crabs, pizza, duck confit, or spicy Chinese-style beef tenderloin. For entrees, you can choose dishes such as prawn, scallop and fiddlehead risotto; veal ribs with a cinnamon paprika rub; or pepper-crusted tuna. The fusion spice elements work better on some dishes than others. The popular brunch includes omelets, corned beef hash with poached eggs and hollandaise sauce, and puff pastries filled with scallops, shrimp, and portobello mushrooms. #1A–1012 Beach Ave. (on the Seawall). & 604/688-1980. www.fiddleheadjoes eatery.com. Reservations recommended for brunch. Main courses C$16–C$20 (US$12–US$15). AE, MC, V. Mon–Fri 11am–10pm; Sat 9am–10pm; Sun 9am–9pm; brunch until 2pm. Bus: 1 or 22.

FUSION Glowbal occupies a top spot in the trendy Yaletown dining scene, so if you’re looking for an evening of good food served in a bright, bustling atmosphere, this is a great place to try. The beautiful dining room, divvied up into a long elevated bar, a rank of semi-secluded dining tables, a file of glowing dining cubes, and an open kitchen, maximizes the drama all around. Have one of their famous martinis as you peruse the menu, and sample as an appetizer some of the delicious satays. Glowbal started the Vancouver craze for these succulent skewers of grilled meat or fish served with a dipping sauce. The main menu is delicious proof that fusion is alive and well. Maybe start with some Ahi tuna tartar, or the house-made squash tortellini. Then, if you’re in the mood for seafood, go with whatever is fresh: It may be wild salmon served with Dungeness crab gnocchi, or crusted sea bass with braised tomatoes and red-pepper gratin. Service is fun and friendly, the wine list exemplary. After hours of dining, the truly incrowd heads to Afterglow, the small lounge behind the dining room.

Glowbal Grill and Satay Bar

1079 Mainland St. & 604/602-0835. www.glowbalgrill.com. Reservations recommended. Main courses C$17–C$29 (US$13–US$22). AE, DC, MC, V. Sun–Thurs 11am–midnight; Fri–Sat 11am–1am. Bus: 2.

ITALIAN Twenty-six years ago, restaurant magnate Umberto Menghi started humbly with this small restaurant tucked away in a yellow heritage house at the bottom of Hornby Street. His Vancouver empire now includes Circolo in Yaletown (see above), but Il Giardino still serves up some of the best Italian fare in town. A larger restaurant now adjoins the original house, opening up into a spacious and bright dining room

Il Giardino di Umberto Ristorante

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that re-creates the ambience of an Italian villa. The menu leans towards Tuscany, with dishes that emphasize pasta and game. Entrees include classics such as osso buco with saffron risotto, and that Roman favorite, spaghetti carbonara. A daily list of specials makes the most of seasonal fresh ingredients, often offering outstanding seafood dishes. For dessert try the mandarin orange/blood orange panna cotta or lemon mascarpone gelato with hazelnut pound cake. The wine list is comprehensive and well chosen, with many excellent vintages reasonably priced at under C$40 (US$30) a bottle. 1382 Hornby St. (between Pacific and Drake). & 604/669-2422. Fax 604/6699723. www.umberto.com. Reservations required. Main courses C$14–C$33 (US$11–US$25). AE, DC, MC, V. Mon–Fri 11:30am–3pm; Mon–Sat 6–11pm. Closed holidays. Bus: 1 or 22.

Joe Fortes Seafood and Chop House SEAFOOD Named after the burly Caribbean seaman and popular local hero who became English Bay’s first lifeguard, Joe Fortes is the best place to come if you’re hankering for top-of-the-line fresh seafood. The downstairs dining room evokes a kind of turn-of-the-20th-century saloon elegance, but if the weather’s fine, try instead for a table on the rooftop patio. Stick with the seafood because it’s absolutely the freshest in town; no farmed fish allowed. The waiters will inform you what’s just come in and where it’s from. Depending on the season you might find skate, marlin, ling cod, mahimahi, snapper, and sablefish as well as salmon, halibut, and tuna. Each selection arrives simply grilled or sautéed and is served with freshly grilled vegetables. Indecisive types can order a trio of fish, sampling the various catches of the day. My personal recommendation is that you sample the seasonal oysters—Joe Fortes’ oyster bar is the best in Vancouver— and/or order the seafood tower, which comes with an iced assortment of marinated mussels, poached shrimp, grilled and chilled scallops, marinated calamari, tuna sashimi, Manila clams, Dungeness crab, and local beach oysters. Stay away from the expensive Alaskan King Crab claws unless they’re in season (otherwise they’re frozen). Heavy on the white, the wine list is gargantuan and includes some wonderful pinots from the Okanagan Valley. The desserts here are sumptuous as well. 777 Thurlow St. (at Robson). & 604/669-1940. www.joefortes.ca. Reservations recommended. Main courses C$19–C$37 (US$14–US$28). AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Daily 11am–10:30pm (brunch only Sat–Sun 11am–4pm). Bus: 5.

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MODERATE TAPAS/CASUAL Still booming 5 years on, Bin 941 remains the place for trendy tapas dining. In fact, it pretty much started Vancouver’s small-plate-sharing craze. True, the music’s too loud and the room’s too small, but the food that alights on the bar or the eight tiny tables is delicious and fun to eat. Look especially for local seafood offerings like scallops and tiger prawns in bonito butter sauce. Sharing is unavoidable in this sliver of a bistro, so come prepared for socializing. So successful was the original model that a second Bin, dubbed Bin 942, has opened up at 1521 W. Broadway (& 604/673-1246). And thanks to the “loose” liquor laws, both Bins are now open until 2am. At both, the tables start to fill up at 6:30pm and by 8pm there’s a long line of the hip and the hungry. Bin 941 Tapas Parlour

941 Davie St. & 604/683-1246. www.bin941.com. Reservations not accepted. All plates are C$10–C$12 (US$7.50–US$9). MC, V. Daily 5pm–2am. Bus: 4, 5, or 8. Value TAPAS La Bodega On a cold and rainy winter evening there is no better retreat than this warm, dark Spanish bar. Grab one of the tables or sneak into a romantic corner and order some soulwarming Mediterranean comfort food. Expect authentic Spanish tapas—garlic prawns, seviche, marinated mushrooms, pan-fried squid, and good black olives. Specials on the blackboard regularly include conejo (rabbit with tomatoes and peppers), quail, and BC scallops. All of it comes with lots of crusty bread for soaking up the wonderful garlicky sauces. La Bodega also has a good selection of Portuguese and Spanish wines and the best sangria in town.

1277 Howe St. & 604/684-8815. Reservations recommended. Tapas C$3.95– C$7.95 (US$3–US$6); main courses C$11–C$18 (US$8.25–US$14). AE, DC, MC, V. Mon–Fri 4:30pm–midnight; Sat 5pm–midnight; Sun 5–11pm. Bus: 4 or 7.

THAI Finally, an authentic Thai restaurant in the trendy heart of Yaletown. The small restaurant, decorated with light wood, terra-cotta tiles, and pale yellow walls, brightens up the dreariest of winter evenings. Watch chef and owner Siriwan in the open kitchen as he cooks up a combination of northern and southern Thai dishes, always using the freshest ingredients. The appetizers are perfect finger foods: gai satay features succulent pieces of grilled chicken breast marinated in coconut milk and spices and covered in a peanut sauce, while the strange looking but delicious cho muang consists of violet colored dumplings stuffed with minced chicken. Main courses run the gamut of Thai cuisine: noodle dishes and

Simply Thai

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coconut curries with beef, chicken, or pork, as well as a good number of vegetarian options. Don’t miss the tom kha gai, a deceptively simple-looking coconut soup with chicken, mushrooms, and lemon grass. Siriwan creates a richly fragrant broth that balances the delicate flavors of the lemon grass and other spices with the thick coconut milk. 1211 Hamilton St. & 604/642-0123. Reservations recommended on weekends. Main courses C$9–C$17 (US$6.75–US$13). AE, DC, MC, V. Mon–Fri 11:30am–3pm; daily 5–10pm. Bus: 2.

INEXPENSIVE Finds Value FISH AND CHIPS This little hole in the wall, just off Robson serves up the city’s best fish and chips. On any given day you’ll find West End residents, German tourists, and well-heeled shoppers vying for counter space. There are only a few tables and a window-seat counter, plus three sidewalk tables (weather permitting), but the fish is always fresh and flaky and can be grilled if you prefer. Choose from sole, halibut, or cod, which may be combined with oysters or prawns, too. If you want to take home smoked salmon, the staff will wrap it up or ship it if you prefer. This fast-food fishery deserves a star.

Olympia Oyster & Fish Co. Ltd.

820 Thurlow St. & 604/685-0716. Main courses C$6–C$10 (US$4.50–US$7.50). AE, MC, V. Mon–Sat 11am–8pm; Sun 11:30am–7pm. Bus: 5.

2 Gastown & Chinatown EXPENSIVE The Cannery SEAFOOD At least some of the pleasure of eating at The Cannery comes from the adventure of finding the place. Hop over the railway tracks and thread your way past container terminals and fish-packing plants and there it is—a great ex-warehouse of a building hanging out over the waters of Burrard Inlet. The interior, with its exposed beams, fishing nets, and seafaring memorabilia adds to The Cannery’s charm, but many come here for the stunning view, one of the best in Vancouver. You’ll find good, solid, traditional seafood here, often alder-grilled, with ever-changing specials to complement the salmon and halibut basics. One classic dish is salmon Wellington—salmon, shrimp, and mushrooms baked in a puff pastry. Meat lovers can get a grilled New York steak or Alberta beef tenderloin. Chef Frederic Couton has been getting more inventive of late, but when an institution founded in 1971 is still going strong, no one’s ever too keen to rock the boat. The wine list is stellar, and the desserts are wonderfully inventive.

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2205 Commissioner St., near Victoria Dr. & 604/254-9606. www.canneryseafood. com. Reservations recommended. Main courses C$16–C$28 (US$12–US$21). AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Mon–Fri 11:30am–2:30pm; Mon–Sat 5:30–10:30pm; Sun 5:30–9:30pm. Closed Dec 24–26. Bus: 7 to Victoria Dr. From downtown, head east on Hastings St., turn left on Victoria Dr. (2 blocks past Commercial Dr.), then right on Commissioner St.

MODERATE Park Lock Seafood Restaurant Kids CHINESE/DIM SUM If you’ve never done dim sum, this large, second-floor dining room in the heart of Chinatown is a good place to give it a try, even though you’ll have to listen to shlocky Western music while you dine. From 8am to 3pm daily, waitresses wheel little carts loaded with Chinese delicacies past the tables. When you see something you like, you point and ask for it. The final bill is based upon how many little dishes are left on your table. Dishes include spring rolls, hargow (shrimp dumplings) and shumai (steamed shrimp, beef, or pork dumplings), prawns wrapped in fresh white noodles, small steamed buns, sticky rice cooked in banana leaves, curried squid, and lots more. Parties of four or more are best—that way you get to try each other’s food. 544 Main St. (at E. Pender St., on the 2nd floor). & 604/688-1581. Reservations recommended. Main courses C$10–C$35 (US$7.50–US$26); dim sum dishes C$2.50–C$6 (US$1.90–US$4.50). AE, MC, V. Dim sum Tues–Sun 8am–3pm; dinner Tues–Sun 5–9pm. Bus: 19 or 22. Kids CHINESE/DIM SUM Pink Pearl After 24 years in the business, this is still Vancouver’s best spot for dim sum. The sheer volume and bustle here are astonishing. Dozens of waiters parade a cavalcade of little trolleys stacked high with baskets and steamers and bowls filled with dumplings, spring rolls, shrimp balls, chicken feet, and even more obscure and delightful offerings. At the tables, extended Chinese families banter, joke, and feast. Towers of empty plates and bowls pile up in the middle, a tribute to the appetites of hungry brunchers, as well as the growing bill; fortunately, dim sum is still a steal, perhaps the best and most fun way to sample Cantonese cooking.

1132 E. Hastings St. & 604/253-4316. www.pinkpearl.com. Main courses C$12– C$35 (US$9–US$26); dim sum C$2.95–C$6 (US$2.20–US$4.50). AE, DC, MC, V. Mon–Thurs 9am–10pm; Fri–Sat 9am–11pm (dim sum served 9am–2:30pm). Bus: 10.

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INEXPENSIVE Incendio If you’re looking for something casual Finds PIZZA and local that won’t be full of other tourists reading downtown maps, this little Gastown hideaway is great. The 22 pizza combinations are served on fresh, crispy crusts baked in an old wood-fired oven. Pastas are homemade, and you’re encouraged to mix and match—try the mussels with spinach fettuccine, capers, and tomatoes in lime butter. The wine list is decent; the beer list is inspired. And there’s a patio. Sunday night features all-you-can-eat pizza for C$8 (US$6). Much to the delight of Kitsilano residents, a second location with a slightly larger menu has opened next to the Fifth Avenue movie theater at 2118 Burrard (& 604/736-2220). 103 Columbia St. & 604/688-8694. Main courses C$8–C$12 (US$6–US$9). AE, MC, V. Mon–Thurs 11:30am–3pm and 5–10pm; Fri 11:30am–3pm and 5–11pm; Sat 5–11pm; Sun 4:30–10pm. Closed Dec 23–Jan 3. Bus: 1 or 8.

Old Spaghetti Factory Kids FAMILY STYLE/ITALIAN Chains are usually disqualified from a listing in this book, but a few extenuating circumstances speak out in favor of the Factory: It’s a smallish, Canadian chain; it has a great location in the Gastown heritage district; and it’s a great place to take kids, with a selection of halfsize, half-price pasta dishes, including spaghetti with meatballs. For the older and more adventurous, there are more complicated pastas with clam sauce or Alfredo sauce as well as non-pasta dishes including veal and steak. A small list of wines is on offer, as well as beer and chocolate milk. 53 Water St. & 604/684-1288. www.oldspaghettifactory.ca. Main courses C$8–C$14 (US$6–US$11). AE, MC, V. Daily 10am–10pm. Bus: 50.

Phnom Penh Restaurant VIETNAMESE This family-run restaurant, serving a mixture of Vietnamese and slightly spicier Cambodian cuisine, is a perennial contender for, and occasional winner of, Vancouver Magazine’s award for the city’s best Asian restaurant. The walls are adorned with artistic renderings of ancient Cambodia’s capital, Angkor. Khmer dolls are suspended in glass cases, and the subdued lighting is a welcome departure from the harsh glare often found in inexpensive Chinatown restaurants. Try the outstanding hot-and-sour soup, loaded with prawns and lemon grass. The deep-fried garlic squid served with rice is also delicious. For dessert, the fruit-and-rice pudding is an exotic treat. 244 E. Georgia St., near Main St. & 604/682-5777. Dishes C$5.15–C$14 (US$3.85–US$11). AE, MC. Daily 10am–10pm. Bus: 8 or 19.

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3 The West End EXPENSIVE Cin Cin MODERN ITALIAN Celebrities, models, politicians, and Vancouverites in need of great Italian food all frequent this wonderful second-story restaurant on Fashion Central Robson Street. The spacious dining room, done in a rustic Italian-villa style, surrounds an open kitchen built around a huge wood-fired oven; the heated terrace is an equally pleasant dining and people-watching spot. The food at Cin Cin is exemplary, and it’s divided into “Old World” and “New World” dishes; if you’re in the mood to sample a bit of everything, order one of the fabulous tasting menus. My appetizer of vitello tonnato (chilled veal served with a creamy tuna sauce, capers, and anchovies) was classic Old World perfection, as was my delectable angel-hair pasta with bottarga (sun-dried mullet caviar from Sardinia). The local Queen Charlotte halibut that followed was melt-in-the-mouth delicious. You really can’t go wrong with any of the dishes; even pizza is done perfectly and comes with a variety of upscale toppings, such as house-smoked wild salmon with capers, caramelized onion, and crème fraîche. The award-winning wine list is extensive, as is the selection of wines by the glass. The service is great. What’s not to like? 1154 Robson St. & 604/688-7338. www.cincin.net. Reservations recommended. Main courses C$16–C$38 (US$12–US$28). AE, DC, MC, V. Mon–Fri 11:30am– 2:30pm; dinner daily 5–11pm. Bus: 5 or 22.

Delilah’s CONTINENTAL

Walk down the steps from the Denman Place Mall and you’ve entered Delilah’s, a somewhat Victorianlooking place with private corner rooms, cherubim cavorting on the ceiling, and wall-mounted lamps with glass shades. First order of business is a martini—Delilah’s forte, and the fuel firing the laughter and conversation all around. The menu is seafood heavy, which Delilah’s does well, sticking to freshness and simple sauces. The Saltspring Island mussels steamed in a chipotle cream are worth trying. The chef gets in a bit over his head with land-based fare, although the grilled beef tenderloin on roast potatoes with veal stock, stilton, foie gras butter, and fresh horseradish is a winner. The staff is brisk and helpful.

1789 Comox St. & 604/687-3424. Reservations accepted for parties of 6 or more. Fixed-price 2-course menu C$24 (US$18); 4 courses C$34 (US$25). AE, DC, MC, V. Daily 5:30pm–midnight. Bus: 5 to Denman St.

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SEAFOOD/PACIFIC NORTHWEST/AFTERNOON TEA Reminiscent of a more genteel era, this white-clapboard clubhouse is surrounded by public tennis courts, bowling greens, and ancient cedar trees. Three rooms decorated in hunter green with dark-wood and whitewashed accents reinforce the clubhouse atmosphere. You can enjoy a traditional afternoon tea here every day from 2 to 4pm, or come for lunch or dinner. The dinner menu includes such innovative dishes as orange miso-glazed sablefish with soy wasabi butter, prosciutto-wrapped scallops with lemon-basil cream, lemon-grass-crusted prawn satay, and a smoked-salmon sampler. For vegetarians there’s a yummy baked vegetable tart, and meat eaters can sink their teeth into a sugar-and-spice-cured pork chop. The oyster bar has at least a halfdozen fresh varieties daily. Desserts are sumptuous. The restaurant/bar draws a mix of golfers, strollers, tourists, and local execs.

The Fish House in Stanley Park

8901 Stanley Park Dr. & 877/681-7275 or 604/681-7275. www.fishhousestanley park.com. Reservations recommended. Main courses C$20–C$33 (US$15–US$25); afternoon tea C$20 (US$15). AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Mon–Sat 11:30am–10pm; Sun 11am–10pm; afternoon tea daily 2–4pm. Closed Dec 24–26. Bus: 1, 35, or 135.

FRENCH This charmingly intimate French restaurant located in a century-old house celebrated its 25th anniversary in 2004. It has always been a place for special occasions and celebrations, and with food and wine of this caliber, there’s a lot to celebrate. We went for the Les Deux Compagnons menu, a fivecourse menu with wine samplings for two specially designed by Chef Roger Leblanc. It was heaven from first to last bite. We started with tranche of foie gras with orange confit. There followed a house specialty: a trio of albacore tuna smoked, seared, and tartar. After that, owner and host Manuel Ferreira mixed up a fabulous classic Caesar salad tableside (Le Gavroche is known for special personal touches like that). Then came lamb sweetbreads with wild mushroom risotto, pancetta, and truffle sauce, followed by a venison chop with Madeira lingonberry sauce. The final bit of perfection was a perfect Grand Marnier soufflé. You can also order a la carte, of course, or choose three- or four-course menus from the daily offerings. The award-winning wine list at Le Gav spans the globe. All in all, you can’t go wrong.

Le Gavroche

1616 Alberni St. & 604/685-3924. www.legavroche.com. Reservations recommended. Main courses C$19–C$43 (US$14–US$32); set menus C$50–C$60 (US$37–US$45); Les Compagnons menu for 2 with wine C$150 (US$112). AE, DC, MC, V. Mon–Fri 11:30am–2:30pm; daily from 5:30pm. Bus: 5.

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PACIFIC NORTHWEST This top-starred restaurant, which opened on English Bay in 1990, is a gem of a dining choice—painstaking in preparation, arty in presentation, and yet completely unfussy in atmosphere. Raincity Grill was one of the very first restaurants in Vancouver to embrace the “buy locally, eat seasonally” concept. The menu focuses on seafood, game, and poultry, and organic vegetables from British Columbia and the Pacific Northwest. The room is long, low, and intimate—perfect for romantic dining. Everything I sampled on the “Spring Shoots” tasting menu was superb. Highlights included porcini-crusted halibut with asparagus, Fraser Valley rabbit ravioli with pea shoot emulsion, grilled Fraser Valley veal tenderloin with ostrich fern and cattail shoots, and a creamily delicious blue cheese from Vancouver Island served with apple sorbet. The award-winning wine list is huge and, in keeping with the restaurant’s philosophy, sticks pretty close to home. From May through Labour Day Raincity opens a takeout window on Denham Street where you can get delicious gourmet dishes to go.

Raincity Grill

1193 Denman St. & 604/685-7337. www.raincitygrill.com. Reservations recommended. Main courses C$21–C$32 (US$16–US$24). AE, DC, MC, V. Daily 5–10:30pm; Sat–Sun brunch 10:30am–2:30pm. Bus: 1 or 5.

PACIFIC NORTHWEST The best approach to The Teahouse, perched on Ferguson Point in Stanley Park overlooking English Bay, is on foot along the seawall from English Bay (about a 30-min. walk from the Bay). Choose a sunny day, and arrive an hour before sunset so you can take in the magnificent views as you climb up the steps to the restaurant and get settled in with a glass of champagne. Though there are no bad seats, true sunset hounds may wish to reserve a window seat in the conservatory. If you can tear yourself away long enough to look at the menu, you’ll notice fresh local ingredients with an Asian twist. Appetizers include wok-fried squid with Thai chiles and oyster sauce and mushrooms stuffed with crab, shrimp, and cream cheese. Main courses are evenly divided between seafood and meat. Look for BC salmon, seared scallops, and Dungeness crab ravioli. The dishes are well done and beautifully presented, a fine companion to the spectacular setting. But even after the sun fades, the lights cast a magical glow on the trees and garden.

The Teahouse Restaurant

Ferguson Point, Stanley Park. & 800/280-9893 or 604/669-3281. www.vancouver dine.com. Reservations recommended. Main courses C$18–C$29 (US$14–US$22). AE, DC, MC, V. Daily 11:30am–2:30pm and 5–10pm; afternoon tea daily 2:30–4:30pm.

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MODERATE JAPANESE Dinner comes at almost disco decibels in Robson Street’s hottest Japanese “eat-drink place” (the literal meaning of Izakaya), where chefs call out orders, servers shout acknowledgements, and the maitre d’ and owner keeps up a running volley to staff about the (often sizable) wait at the door. The menu features inventive nontraditional dishes such as bacon-wrapped asparagus or negitori (spicy tuna roll) and fresh tuna belly chopped with spring onions served with munch-size bits of garlic bread. For non-raw fish eaters, there are inventive appetizers and meat dishes and a scrumptious Korean hot pot. The wine list is short and not particularly special, but in compensation, the martini and sake lists are both sophisticated and lengthy. The crowd is about a third expat Japanese, a third Chinese and a third well-informed Westerners. The service is fast and obliging, and the price per dish at this most entertaining of eating spots is very reasonable.

Hapa Izakaya

1479 Robson St. & 604/689-4272. No reservations accepted 6–8pm. Dinner main courses C$8–C$12 (US$6–US$9). AE, MC, V. Sun–Thurs 5:30pm–midnight; Fri–Sat 5:30pm–1am. Bus: 5.

Ichibankan JAPANESE In contrast to Hapa (see above) farther down Robson, this small basement sushi bar does old-fashioned, straight-up sushi, which it’s been serving for 2-plus decades. Whether you sit at the traveling sushi conveyor belt (where you grab the dishes you want as they trundle past) or at one of the tables, quality is high and the salmon, tuna, halibut, and other diverse sea creatures come nice and fresh. Prices are extremely reasonable; visitors from the East both near (such as New York) and far (such as Tokyo) are often astounded by how cheap and good Vancouver sushi is. There are some options for non-sushiphiles, including tempura and teriyaki, but if raw fish ain’t your thing, you’d be better off directing those dining instincts elsewhere. 770 Thurlow St. & 604/682-6262. Reservations accepted. Main courses C$6–C$13 (US$4.50–US$9). AE, DC, MC, V. Mon–Thurs 11:30am–10:30pm; Fri–Sat 11:30am–11pm; Sun noon–10pm. Bus: 5. Kids FAMILY STYLE/ITALIAN Housed in a huge stone mansion built in the early 20th century by sugar baron B. T. Rogers, Romano’s is fun and casual. Wood paneling, stained-glass windows, and chandeliers surround tables covered with red-and-white checked tablecloths. The menu is Southern Italian, and the pastas are definitely favorites. This isn’t high-concept Italian; the food is simple, understandable, and

Romano’s Macaroni Grill at the Mansion

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consistently good. You’re charged for the house wine based on how much you pour from the bottle. Your kids will love the children’s menu, which features lasagna and meatloaf as well as tasty pizzas. It’s more fun to dine outside on the patio (with heat lamps when it gets colder), which is one of the best in town. 1523 Davie St. & 604/689-4334. Reservations recommended. Main courses C$8–C$16 (US$6–US$12); children’s courses C$4.95–C$6 (US$3.70–US$4.50). AE, DC, MC, V. Mon–Thurs noon–10pm; Fri–Sat noon–11pm. Bus: 5. Value JAPANESE Occupying the second floor of a corner building on Denman Street, Tanpopo has a partial view of English Bay, a large patio, and a huge menu of hot and cold Japanese dishes. But the line of people waiting 30 minutes or more every night for a table are here for the all-you-can-eat sushi. The unlimited fare includes the standards—makis, tuna and salmon sashimi, California and BC rolls—as well as cooked items such as tonkatsu, tempura, chicken kara-age, and broiled oysters. There are a couple of secrets to getting seated. You might try to call ahead, but they take only an arbitrary percentage of reservations for dinner each day. Otherwise, you can ask to sit at the sushi bar.

Tanpopo

1122 Denman St. & 604/681-7777. Reservations recommended for groups. Main courses C$7–C$19 (US$5.25–US$14); all-you-can-eat sushi C$22 (US$16) for dinner, C$12 (US$9) for lunch. AE, DC, MC, V. Daily 11:30am–10pm. Bus: 5.

FUSION/TAPAS Zin’s interior was redone in 2004 and now glows with deep reddish hues offset by comfy loungeable sofas and chairs on one side and dining booths on the other with flickering candlelight all around. The restaurant is in the Pacific Palisades Hotel (see chapter 3) but managed separately. Come here for a restaurant meal (breakfast, lunch, or dinner) or tapas made with fresh local ingredients and a global accent. There are many small plates priced in the C$8 to C$10 (US$6–US$7.50) range. Dishes include classic steamed mussels and Asian-inspired specialties like coconut crab, shrimp, and rice cakes. You can get a grilled steak and fries, smoked wild salmon with horseradish butter sauce, butter curry scallops, or vegetarian linguine. The result, whether you’re dining on entrees or sharing small plates, is a fun, casual experience with cuisine that’s more varied and less expensive than any of the glorified pub-food outlets on Robson. Best of all, Zin’s martinis still delight, the selection of wines-by-the-glass still adds up to double digits, and if it’s a Zinfandel for which you hanker, Zin’s retains the best selection in town.

Zin

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1277 Robson St. & 604/408-1700. www.zin-restaurant.com. Main courses C$10–C$22 (US$7.50–US$16); tasting menu C$25 (US$19). AE, DC, MC, V. Tues–Fri 7am–2pm and 4pm–midnight; Sat 8am–1am; Sun 8am–11pm.

INEXPENSIVE Banana Leaf MALAYSIAN Always one of the city’s best spots for Malaysian but formerly located in a less than optimal spot, the Leaf has now blown up just a hop and a skip from English Bay. The menu includes inventive specials such as mango and okra salad, delicious south-Asian mainstays such as gado gado (a salad with hot peanut sauce) or mee goreng (fried noodles with vegetables topped by a fried egg) and occasional variations such as an assam curry (seafood in hot and sour curry sauce) that comes with okra and tomato. For dessert, don’t pass up on pisang goring—fried banana with ice cream. The small room is tastefully decorated in dark tropical woods; the rather unadventurous wine list features a small selection of inexpensive reds and whites. Service is very friendly. 1096 Denman St. & 604/683-3333. (also 820 W. Broadway; & 604/731-6333). www.bannaleaf-vancouver.com. Main courses C$7–C$15 (US$5.25–US$11). AE, MC, V. Sun–Wed 11:30am–10:30pm; Thurs–Sat 11:30am–11:30pm. Bus: 5.

Gyoza King JAPANESE

Gyoza King features an entire menu of gyoza—succulent Japanese dumplings filled with prawns, pork, vegetables, and other combinations—as well as Japanese noodles and staples like katsu-don (pork cutlet over rice) and o-den (a rich, hearty soup). This is the gathering spot for hordes of young Japanese visitors looking for cheap eats that approximate home cooking. Seating is divided among Western-style tables, the bar (where you can watch the chef in action), and the Japanese-style low table, which is reserved for larger groups if the restaurant is busy. The staff is very courteous and happy to explain the dishes.

1508 Robson St. & 604/669-8278. Main courses C$6–C$13 (US$4.50–US$9.75). AE, MC, V. Mon–Thurs 5:30pm–1am; Fri 5:30pm–1:30am; Sat 6pm–1:30am; Sun 6pm–11:30pm. Bus: 5.

Hot Dog Jonny’s AMERICAN

Where do you go when you’re craving a venison-and-fennel or duck-and-apple hot dog? To Hot Dog Jonny’s, a little gourmet hot dog joint near English Bay. You can get a classic kosher dog from Chicago or a foot-long weenie or a veggie edition. It’s the best hot-dog meat you’ll ever find, and there are about 40 condiments to choose from.

1061 Denman St. (near Beach). & 604/696-DOGS. www.hotdogjonnys.com. Hot dogs C$3.80–C$7 (US$2.85–US$5.25). MC, V. Sun–Thurs 8am–10pm; Fri–Sat 8am–11pm. Bus: 6.

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Stephos Value GREEK A fixture on the Davie Street dining scene, Stephos has been packing them in since Zorba was a boy. The cuisine is simple Greek fare at its finest and cheapest. Customers line up outside for a seat amid Greek travel posters, potted ivy, and whitewashed walls (the average wait is about 10–15 min., but it could be as long as 30 min.). Order some pita and dip (hummus, spicy eggplant, or garlic spread) while you peruse the menu. An interesting appetizer is the avgolemono soup, a delicately flavored chicken broth with egg and lemon, accompanied by a plate of piping hot pita bread. When choosing a main course, keep in mind that portions are huge. The roasted lamb, lamb chops, fried calamari, and a variety of souvlakia are served with rice, roast potatoes, and Greek salad. The beef, lamb, or chicken pita come in slightly smaller portions served with fries and tzatziki (a sauce made from yogurt, cucumber, and garlic). 1124 Davie St. & 604/683-2555. Reservations accepted for parties of 5 or more. Main courses C$4.25–C$10 (US$3.20–US$7.50). AE, MC, V. Daily 11am–11:30pm. Bus: 5.

4 The West Side VERY EXPENSIVE PACIFIC NORTHWEST Whether you arrive on foot or by limousine (there are guests in both categories), owner John Bishop will greet you at the door and lead you to a table in his elegant dining room hung with fine paintings and wood sculpture from the Pacific Northwest. Dining here is an expensive proposition but among food worshippers Bishop’s is considered one of the top five restaurants in Vancouver. All ingredients are locally grown and organic. Everything is seasonal, and the menu changes weekly, but at any given time, Bishop’s will have a small collection of the best Pacific Northwest dishes available anywhere. Appetizers might include Dungeness crab crabs with pear-cranberry chutney or grilled Pacific squid with lemon-ginger aioli (garlic sauce). Entrees could include roasted wild spring salmon with rhubarb compote, grilled spot prawns and smoked salmon risotto, or rack of lamb with garlic mashed potatoes. The wine selection isn’t huge but it’s exceptionally well chosen with vintages from along the Pacific Coast. Best to dress “casually elegant” or “smart business” if you’re going to dine here.

Bishop’s

2183 W. Fourth Ave. & 604/738-2025. www.bishopsonline.com. Reservations required. Main courses C$30–C$38 (US$22–US$28). AE, DC, MC, V. Mon–Sat 5:30–11pm; Sun 5:30–10pm. Closed Jan 1–15. Bus: 4 or 7.

Where to Dine in Kitsilano & the West Side Rangoli 12 Sami's 16 The SandBar 15 Sha-Lin Noodle House 18 The Smoking Dog 8 Sophie's Cosmic Café 7 Tojo's Restaurant 17 Vij’s 13 West 11

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PACIFIC NORTHWEST For all the hoopla surrounding Rob Feenie, of Lumière fame, see the next review. Feenie’s, his newest creation, opened in July 2003, right next door, and became an instant hit with those who wanted to feel close to the celebrated chef but not have to buy an eight-course meal. In this bright, relentlessly hip dining room you can order something as simple as a gourmet hamburger or hot dog, or the rarely seen poutine, hand-cut fries with cheese curds and gravy. The menu goes more upscale at dinner, with pastas, fresh fish, and various meat dishes. The bar, painted a glowing magenta-red, serves up special martinis and drinks du jour.

Feenie’s

2563 W. Broadway. & 604/739-7115. www.feenies.com. Reservations recommended. Main courses C$8–C$19 (US$6–US$14); 3-course menu C$35 (US$26). AE, DC, MC, V. Mon–Fri 11am–2:30pm; Sun 5:30–10pm. Closed Jan 1–15. Bus: 4 or 7.

FRENCH The success of this French dining experiment in the heart of Kitsilano has turned chef Rob Feenie into a hot commodity (in 2004, Lumière won Vancouver Magazine’s

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Best Restaurant of the Year Award, plus Best Chef, and Best Formal French). What’s his secret? Preparation and presentation are immaculately French, while ingredients are resolutely local, which makes for interesting surprises—fresh local ginger with the veal, or raspberries in the foie gras. Lumière’s tasting menus are a series of 8 or 10 delightful plates that change with the season, perfectly matched to a local wine (not included in the fixed price) and gorgeously presented. Diners simply choose one of the four tasting menus (one menu is all-vegetarian; one is all-seafood) and then sit back and let the pilots in Lumière’s kitchen take them on a culinary journey they won’t forget. If you can afford it, it’s a voyage you shouldn’t miss. At the adjoining Lumière Tasting Bar, patrons can sample just a few dishes instead of committing to the full eight-course meal. Chef Rob Feenie serves these tasty little treats for C$12 (US$9) a plate. Sample the roasted marinated sablefish with a sauté of potatoes and leeks or albacore tuna sashimi with green papaya salad and chile-lime dressing. This is where you’ll find Vancouver’s toniest “Mac and Cheese” (burger served with blue cheese and

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double-smoked Irish bacon) and pork and beans. The intrepid Feenie has also just opened Feenie’s, right next door (see review above). 2551 W. Broadway. & 604/739-8185. www.lumiere.ca. Reservations required for restaurant, not accepted for bar. Tasting menu (8 courses) C$90–C$130 (US$68–US$98). AE, DC, MC, V. Restaurant Tues–Sun 5:30–9:30pm; tasting bar Tues–Sun 5:30–11pm. Bus: 9 or 10.

JAPANESE Tojo’s is considered Vancouver’s top Japanese restaurant, the place where celebs come to dine on the best sushi in town. It’s expensive, but the food is absolutely fresh, inventive, and boy is it good. The dining room is on the second floor of an office building and opens up to fabulous views of False Creek and beyond (if it’s nice, reserve a place on the patio). Tojo’s ever-changing menu offers such specialties as sea urchin on the half shell, herring roe, lobster claws, tuna, crab, and barbecue eel. The best thing to do is go for the Chef ’s Arrangement—tell them how much you’re willing to spend (per person) and let the good times roll.

Tojo’s Restaurant

202–777 W. Broadway. & 604/872-8050. Reservations recommended. Main courses C$16–C$30 (US$12–US$22); sushi/sashimi C$8–C$28 (US$6–US$21); Chef’s Arrangement set meals C$50–C$100 (US$37–US$75). AE, DC, MC, V. Mon–Sat 5–10pm. Closed Christmas week. Bus: 9.

EXPENSIVE The Smoking Dog FRENCH To date, the little Kitsilano neighborhood of Yorkville Mews has remained a local secret, perhaps because the few tourists who do venture into this delightful 1-block stretch are immediately confronted with a confusing variety of choices. Should one stop at one of the three cafes, the tapas bar, the sushi spot, the vegan cafe, or this traditional Parisian bistro, complete with patio umbrellas, obsequious waiters dressed in black, and a friendly bear of an owner who greets everyone at the door? Food-wise, the Dog is undoubtedly the best (and priciest) of the lot, featuring New York pepper steak, grilled halibut with Pernod sauce, and scallops with beurre blanc. If the weather allows, take a seat on the heated patio and enjoy the bustling street life. 1889 W. First Ave. & 604/732-8811. Main courses C$22–C$30 (US$17–US$23). AE, DC, MC, V. Mon–Fri 11:30am–3pm; Mon–Sat 5:30–10:30pm. Bus: 2 or 22.

West FRENCH/PACIFIC NORTHWEST I’m just going to come out and say it: I had one of the best meals of my life at West. This is a restaurant where details matter, high standards reign, and cooking is a fine art. And yet it’s not stuffy or stiff. You’ll want to dress up, though, and you’ll want to linger over your food,

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prepared by executive chef David Hawksworth. The credo at this award-winning restaurant is deceptively simple: “True to our region, true to the seasons.” What that means is that fresh, organic, locally harvested seafood, game, and produce are transformed into extraordinary creations. Small plates—like braised cabernet beef short ribs or hamachi sashimi with pineapple and fennel vinaigrette—can be snacked on at the bar or ordered as an appetizer. The menu changes three to four times a week, but first courses might include housemade spaghetti with spot prawns and arugula or wild mushroom and ricotta ravioli; for a second course you might find Canadian Berkshire pork loin with homemade sausage and bacon, or roasted halibut filet with shitake mushroom broth. For the ultimate dining experience, try the sea- or land-based tasting menus—a five-course progression through the best the restaurant has to offer. A carefully chosen wine list includes a selection of affordable wines; wines by the glass and half-bottles. The dining room is cool and relaxed; if you’re really into cooking, reserve one of the two “chef tables” directly adjacent to the kitchen. 2881 Granville St. & 604/738-8938. www.westrestaurant.com. Reservations recommended. Main courses C$33–C$44 (US$25–US$33); land tasting menu C$79 (US$59); sea tasting menu C$86 (US$64). AE, DC, MC, V. Mon–Fri 11:30am– 2:30pm; daily 5:30–11pm. Bus: 8.

MODERATE Café Zen CASUAL Sandal-clad traffic from next-door Kits Beach has turned the stretch of Yew Street between Cornwall and Second avenues into something of a casual dining mecca. There are numerous pasta options, a couple of pubs, and several neighborhood restaurants, one of the more popular of which is Café Zen. A great breakfast and lunch spot anytime of the week, on weekends this little cafe develops positively un-Zenlike bustle. By 10am the dining room is packed and waiting guests spill out the doorway and up the long steep sidewalk. What’s the attraction? A huge brunch menu, fast and efficient service, reasonable prices, and great eggs Benedict. 1631 Yew St. (at York). & 604/731-4018. Main courses C$6–C$12 (US$4.50–US$9). MC, V. Daily 7am–5pm. Bus: 2, 4, 7, or 22.

Mark’s Fiasco Kids CASUAL Mark’s is the casual pub of choice for the Kitsilano jock-boy crowd, with a brass bar, 15 microbrews on tap, and at least four channels of sports on strategically placed TVs. On the restaurant side, Mark’s offers a well-rounded menu of pastas, pizzas, seafood, and pubby dishes. Appetizers include

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steamed mussels, fried calamari, and a delicious baked spinach dip. With a burger and fries starting at C$7 (US$5.25), crayons on every paper-covered table, and a congenial staff, Mark’s is also a great kidfriendly option. 2468 Bayswater St. (at W. Broadway). & 604/734-1325. www.markjamesgroup. com. Reservations recommended. Main courses C$7–C$19 (US$5.25–US$14). AE, MC, V. Daily 11:45am–11pm (bar stays open later). Bus: 9.

Memphis Blues Barbeque House BARBECUE In the busy section of Granville and Broadway, this little hole-in-the-wall barbecue pit is making a name for itself with corn-pone, southern-boy barbecue. With real southern barbecue—as the owners will endlessly remind you—the meat has to be smoked for hours over a lowheat hardwood fire. Ribs come out tender enough to pull apart with your fingers (which is how food is eaten here—the cutlery is mostly only for show) yet still sweet and firm. The beef brisket is cooked long enough that the fat is all rendered out, while the lean flesh remains juicy and tender. The pork butt is slow-cooked until you can pull it apart with a fork. Those three meats (plus catfish and Cornish game hen) are essentially what’s offered here. Put that meat on greens and you’ve got a southern salad. Put it on bread and it becomes a sandwich. Serve it on a plate with beans and a potato and it becomes an entree. There are wines by the glass and bottle, but what you want is the ice-cold home-brewed beer. 1465 W. Broadway. & 604/738-6806. Fax 604/738-6852. Main courses C$9–C$22 (US$6.75–US$17). AE, DC, MC, V. Mon–Thurs 11am–10pm; Fri 11am–midnight; Sat noon–midnight; Sun noon–10pm. Bus: 4, 7, or 10.

Always in the running for best Indian Finds INDIAN food in Vancouver, Sami’s is still going strong. If you want to try this fabulous East-meets-West South Asian cooking, you have to make a trip out to a strip mall off West Broadway. But the food is worth the journey, offering inventive and delicious dishes—try the Mumbaiblackened New York steak set atop spiked mashers with blueberry coriander jus—that won’t put a large hole in your wallet. Service is efficient and knowledgeable. No reservations are accepted, so expect a line.

Sami’s

986 W. Broadway. & 604/736-8330. Reservations not accepted. Main courses C$15 (US$11). DC, MC, V. Mon–Sat 11:30am–2:30pm; daily 5–11pm. Bus: 9.

The SandBar CASUAL On Fridays and Saturdays, the bar and patio here fill up with 20-something singles and an assortment of baby boomers and beyond. Those who aren’t ready to tear into the pickup scene can actually sink their teeth into a number of fairly

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decent tapas, perfect for sharing with a couple of friends. The mussels and clams come wonderfully steamed, positively demanding that you sop up the juices with some warm bits of bread. Shrimp and pork dumplings provide the Asian component of a menu that spans the globe. Mexican-inspired fishcakes are served with a pineapple salsa, while fish taquitos come with a chipotle dip sauce. The menu also offers a number of main courses, including cedarplanked grilled salmon and a daily pasta special that in season may feature fresh BC scallops in a light tomato sauce. In summer, the patio on the third floor is fabulous for lazing about in the warm sunshine, while come fall or winter, it’s a good spot to cuddle up beneath a heat lamp in a big leather chair. Be nice to your greeter, and she may show you the way. 1535 Johnston St., Granville Island. & 604/669-9030. www.mysandbar.com. Reservations not accepted for patio. Tapas C$5.75–C$12 (US$4.30–US$9); main courses C$10–C$20 (US$7.50–US$15). AE, MC, V. Daily 11:30am–midnight. Bus: 50 to Granville Island.

Vij’s INDIAN Vij doesn’t take reservations, but then he really doesn’t have to: There’s a line outside his door every single night. Patrons huddled under Vij’s violet neon sign are treated to complimentary tea and papadums (a thin bread made from lentils). Inside, the decor is as warm and subtle as the seasonings, which are all roasted and ground by hand, then used with studied delicacy. The menu changes monthly, though some of the more popular entrees remain constants. Recent offerings included coconut curried chicken and saffron rice and marinated pork medallions with garlicyogurt curry and nan (flatbread). Vegetarian selections abound, including curried vegetable rice pilaf with cilantro cream sauce and Indian lentils with nan and raita (yogurt-mint sauce). The wine and beer list is short but carefully selected. And for tea drinkers, Vij has developed a modernized version of the traditional Indian chai, the chaiuccino. Vij recently opened Rangoli (see below), right next door, for lunch and take-away. 1480 W. 11th Ave. & 604/736-6664. Fax 604/736-3701. Reservations not accepted. Main courses C$14–C$24 (US$11–US$18). AE, DC, MC, V. Daily 5:30–10pm, later if busy. Closed Dec 24–Jan 8. Bus: 8 or 10.

INEXPENSIVE Value INDIAN/VEGETARIAN Annapurna A Kitsilano favorite, Annapurna’s small dining room is hung with dozens of rice-paper lamps in whites, yellows, oranges, and reds that bask the room in a soft, warm glow. The menu is all vegetarian, but with the

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amazing combinations of Indian spices, herbs, and local vegetables, the dishes are rich and satisfying. Appetizers include samosas, pakoras, and lentil dumplings soaked in tangy yogurt with chutney. A variety of breads, such as paratha, nan, and chapatis, are served piping hot. Entrees such as aloo-ghobi (potato curry with cauliflower, onions, and cilantro) or navrattan korma (seasonal vegetables simmered in poppy-seed paste, flavored with saffron, aniseed, and sliced almonds) can be prepared from mild to screaming hot. The wine list is small but very reasonably priced. With food, wine, and atmosphere this good, Annapurna lets you feel like you’re splurging when you’re not. 1812 W. Fourth Ave. & 604/736-5959. Main courses C$10–C$14 (US$7.50– US$11). AE, MC, V. Daily 11:30am–10pm. Bus: 4 or 7. Kids VEGETARIAN The Naam Restaurant Back in the ’60s, when Kitsilano was Canada’s hippie haven, the Naam was tie-dye central. Things have changed since then, but Vancouver’s oldest vegetarian and natural-food restaurant still retains a pleasant granola feel. The decor is simple, earnest, and welcoming: well-worn wooden tables and chairs, plants, an assortment of local art, and a fabulous garden patio. The brazenly healthy fare ranges from allvegetarian burgers, enchiladas, and burritos to tofu teriyaki, Thai noodles, and a variety of pita pizzas. The sesame spice fries are a Vancouver institution. And though the Naam is not quite vegan, they do cater to the anti-egg-and-cheese crowd with specialties like the macrobiotic Dragon Bowl of brown rice, tofu, peanut sauce, sprouts, and steamed vegetables.

2724 W. Fourth Ave. & 604/738-7151. www.thenaam.com. Reservations accepted on weekdays only. Main courses C$4.95–C$10 (US$3.70–US$7.50). AE, MC, V. Daily 24 hr. Live music every night 7–10pm. Bus: 4 or 22.

Rangoli INDIAN Vij’s, reviewed above, is considered one of Vancouver’s best restaurants; it takes Indian cuisine to inventive new heights and tastes. But Vij’s is only open for dinner, so right next door you can get lunch and takeout versions of Vij’s curries and other specialties. Try tamarind and yogurt marinated grilled chicken, or mother-in-law’s pork curry with mixed greens, naan, and rice. A sweet and savory snacks menu is offered from 4 to 8pm: rice and paneer cakes with fresh mango salsa, vegetable samosas, and warm mango custard are some of the offerings. Rangoli is a hip, simple-looking interior with just a few tables and a lot of stainless steel.

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1488 W. 11th Ave. & 604/736-5711. www.vijsrangoli.com. Reservations not accepted. Main courses C$9–C$11 (US$6.75–US$8.25). AE, DC, MC, V. Daily 11am–8pm. Bus: 8 or 10.

Sha-Lin Noodle House Kids CHINESE/DIM SUM Ever wonder how fresh your noodles really are? At Sha-Lin, you can watch the noodle chef make them right before your eyes. Unique for Vancouver, Sha-Lin is one of the few places where each order of noodles is made from scratch. The chefs mix, knead, toss, stretch, and compress the dough until it almost magically gives way to thin strands. After a quick boil, the noodles are added to the dish of your choice. Two or three dishes make a satisfying meal for two; choose from a wide variety of meat and vegetable dishes. Want more entertainment at your table? Order the special tea and watch the server pour it from a meter-long (3 ft.) pot originally designed to allow male servants to maintain a polite distance from an 18th-century Chinese empress. Watch the server’s steady hand as he aims the spout of boiling liquid in the center of your tiny cup—just don’t make any sudden movements. 548 W. Broadway. & 604/873-1816. Main courses C$5–C$10 (US$3.75– US$7.50). No credit cards. Lunch Wed–Mon 11:30am–3:30pm; dinner daily 5–9:30pm. Bus: 9. Kids FAMILY STYLE/AMERICAN Sophie’s is easily identifiable by the giant silver knife and fork bolted to the storefront. Inside, every available space has been crammed with toys and knickknacks from the 1950s and 1960s. So, understandably, children are inordinately fond of Sophie’s. Crayons and coloring paper are always on hand. The menu is simple: pastas, burgers and fries, great milkshakes, and a few classic Mexican dishes. The slightly spicy breakfast menu is hugely popular with Kitsilano locals; lines can stretch to half an hour or more on Sunday mornings.

Sophie’s Cosmic Café

2095 W. Fourth Ave. & 604/732-6810. Main courses C$4.85–C$17 (US$3.65– US$13). MC, V. Daily 8am–9:30pm. Bus: 4 or 7.

5 The East Side Many of these “east side” restaurants are on Main Street, which is on the borderlands between upscale west and working-class east. Not just trendy, Main serves up some funky urban authenticity along with your meal.

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EXPENSIVE Kids CHINESE/DIM SUM/SEAFOOD Sun Sui Wah One of the most elegant and sophisticated Chinese restaurants in town, the award-winning Sun Sui Wah is well known for its seafood. Fresh and varied, the catch of the day can include fresh crab, rock cod, geoduck, scallops, abalone, oyster, prawns, and more. Pick your own from the tank or order from the menu if you’d rather not meet your food eye-to-eye before it’s cooked. The staff is quite helpful for those unfamiliar with the cuisine. Dim sum is a treat, with the emphasis on seafood. Just point and choose. There are plenty of other choices for meat lovers and vegetarians, though they will miss out on one of the best seafood feasts in town.

3888 Main St. & 604/872-8822. www.sunsuiwah.com. Also in Richmond: 102 Alderbridge Place, 4940 No. 3 Rd. (& 604/273-8208). Main courses C$11–C$50 (US$8.25–US$38). AE, DC, MC, V. Daily 10:30am–3pm and 5–10:30pm. Bus: 3.

MODERATE Bukowski’s CASUAL

The last and booziest of the American Beat poets gets what he always wanted, a bistro named in his honor. So what if he never made it to Vancouver, much less the bohemianand-becoming-more-so strip on Commercial Drive. The cuisine is not Polish, but instead a fusiony kind of comfort food perfectly suited to casual dining. Think beef satay, charbroiled chicken on focaccia bread, catfish with black-bean salsa, or steak with peppercorn garlic jus. And beer. Or any one of several wines featured on a daily blackboard. Even more attractive than the food is the friendly, buzzing atmosphere and a clientele too rich to be artists, but hip enough to dress the part. Service is wonderfully unhurried. Dawdle for hours if you want, reading the snippets of Sylvia Plath inscribed on your table, or listening to the live jazz, which plays at Bukowski’s most nights after 7pm.

1447 Commercial Dr. & 604/253-4770. Reservations accepted. Main courses C$8–C$15 (US$6–US$11). MC, V. Mon–Thurs 5pm–1am; Fri–Sat noon–1am; Sun noon–midnight. Live jazz Mon–Thurs. Bus: 20.

The Locus Café CASUAL/SOUTHWESTERN

Even if you arrive by your lonesome, you’ll soon have plenty of friends because the Locus is a cheek-by-jowl kind of place, filled with a friendly, funky crowd of artsy Mount Pleasant types. A big bar dominates the room, overhung with “swamp-gothic” lacquer trees and surrounded by a tier of stools with booths and tiny tables. Cuisine originated in the American Southwest but picked up an edge somewhere along the way, as demonstrated in the roasted half-chicken with a

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cumin-coriander crust and sambuca citrus demi-glace. Keep an eye out for fish specials, such as grilled tomba tuna with a grapefruit and mango glaze. The pan-seared calamari makes a perfect appetizer. Bowen Island brewery provides the beer, so quality’s high. Your only real problem is catching the eye of the hyper-busy bartender. 4121 Main St. & 604/708-4121. Reservations recommended. Main courses C$9–C$15 (US$6.75–US$11). MC, V. Daily 10am–midnight (bar open later). Bus: 3.

The Reef Value CARIBBEAN The “JERK” in the phone number refers to a spicy marinade of bay leaves, scotch bonnets, allspice, garlic, soya, green onions, vinegar, and cloves. The Reef serves up a number of jerk dishes, including their signature quarter jerk chicken breast. Other dishes are equally delightful, including a tropical salad of fresh mango, red onions, and tomatoes; shrimp with coconut milk and lime juice; grilled blue marlin; and Trenton spiced ribs. Choose a glass of wine from the thoughtfully selected list, and you have gourmet dining in a great room—cleverly decorated with chicken wire, bamboo, and original mixed media artwork—at a bargain price. Afternoons, the tiny patio is drenched in sunlight, while in the evenings a DJ spins the sounds of the Islands. 4172 Main St. & 604/874-JERK. www.thereefrestaurant.com. Main courses C$9–C$15 (US$6.75–US$11). AE, DC, MC, V. Sun–Wed 11am–midnight; Thurs–Sat 11am–1am. Bus: 3.

6 The North Shore EXPENSIVE The Beach House at Dundarave Pier PACIFIC NORTHWEST Set on a dramatic waterfront location, The Beach House offers a panoramic view of English Bay. Diners on the heated patio get more sunshine, but they miss out on the rich interior of this restored 1912 teahouse. The food is consistently good—innovative, but not so experimental that it leaves the staid West Van burghers gasping for breath. Appetizers include soft-shell crab with salt-andfire jelly; grilled scallops with baby spinach, crispy onions, and redpepper cream; and grilled portobello mushroom with Okanagan Valley goat cheese. Entrees have included garlic-crusted rack of lamb with honey balsamic glaze and baked striped sea bass with basil mousse and rock prawns. The wine list is award winning. 150 25th St., West Vancouver. & 604/922-1414. www.atthebeachhouse.com. Reservations recommended. Main courses C$22–C$33 (US$16–US$25); tasting menus C$49–C$69 (US$37–US$52). AE, DC, MC, V. Daily 11am–10pm. Bus: 255 to Ambleside Pier.

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ITALIAN West Vancouverites have always had numerous fine dining options, but for folks in more working-class North Vancouver (to the east of the Lion’s Gate Bridge), times were always tougher. That is until the father-and-son Corsi team opened Gusto just steps from the Lonsdale Quay SeaBus Terminal. The comfortable and pleasant dining room is bathed in warm earth tones and has a rustic decor. The menu focuses on the cuisine of Central Italy. To start, try the fresh mozzarella wrapped in prosciutto and radicchio and drizzled with cherry vinaigrette, or the grilled calamari in a tomato coulis. Signature main courses include pistachio-crusted sea bass; duck breast with Frangelico, toasted pine nuts, and grilled orange; and the outstanding spaghetti quattro, a spicy concoction of minced chicken, black beans, garlic, and chile. Stuffed pastas are made from scratch; the mushroom agnolotti with truffle and cream sauce melts in your mouth. The wine list leans heavily towards Italy, offering a good selection of reasonably priced Chianti and other table wines. Save room for the pera cotta, a port-poached pear served with pistachio gelato. Gusto

1 Lonsdale Ave., North Vancouver. & 604/924-4444. www.quattrorestaurants. com. Reservations recommended. Dinner main courses C$16–C$32 (US$12– US$24); lunch C$9–C$17 (US$6.75–US$13). AE, DC, MC, V. Mon–Fri 11:30am–2pm; daily 5-10pm. SeaBus to Lonsdale Quay.

The Salmon House on the Hill PACIFIC NORTHWEST/ SEAFOOD High above West Vancouver, the Salmon House offers a spectacular view of the city and Burrard Inlet. The roughhewn cedar walls are adorned with a growing collection of indigenous West Coast art. An alder-wood-fired grill dominates the kitchen, lending a delicious flavor to many of the dishes. Start with the Salmon House Sampler, featuring smoked and candied salmon accompanied by fresh salsas, chutneys, and relishes. Entrees include a seared Ahi tuna with a tomato, soy, and cumin barbecue sauce, and alder-grilled BC salmon with leeks and rémoulade sauce. Desserts bear little resemblance to early First Nations cuisine: mocha torte with pecan-toffee crust or blueberry tiramisu. The wine list earned an award of excellence from Wine Spectator. 2229 Folkstone Way, West Vancouver. & 604/926-3212. www.salmonhouse.com. Reservations recommended for dinner. Lunch main courses C$13–C$16 (US$10–US$12); dinner main courses C$24–C$30 (US$18–US$23). AE, DC, MC, V. Mon–Sat 11:30am–2:30pm; Sun brunch 11am–2:30pm; daily 5–10pm. Bus: 251 to Queens St.

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INEXPENSIVE Finds FAMILY STYLE/AMERICAN Just a typical American-style diner, but with one critical difference that makes it worth a visit: The Tomahawk is packed with Native knickknacks and gewgaws and some truly first-class First Nations art. It all started back in the 1930s when proprietor Chick Chamberlain began accepting carvings from Burrard Band Natives in lieu of payment. Over the years, the collection just kept growing. So how’s the food? Good, in a burgers-and-fries kind of way. Portions are large, burgers are tasty, and milkshakes come so thick the spoon stands up straight like a totem pole.

The Tomahawk Restaurant

1550 Philip Ave., North Vancouver. & 604/988-2612. Reservations not accepted. Main courses C$4.25–C$17 (US$3.20–US$13). AE, DC, MC, V. Sun–Thurs 8am– 9pm; Fri–Sat 8am–10pm. Bus: 239 to Philip Ave.

7 Coffee, Sweets & Ice Cream Absolutely the best lattes in town. Finds The trick is to start with the perfect beans, brew the coffee to an exact temperature, give the steamed milk the respect it deserves, and pour it out ever so slowly forming a leaf-or heart-shaped pattern in your cup. This is latte-making elevated to an art form. Pop in for a light lunch or pastry, too: The grilled sandwiches and pasta specials are great. The original location on West Pender and Thurlow in the financial district is less intimate than the newer digs on Hornby, right across from the Vancouver Art Gallery; the Hornby location has a little outdoor patio that is perfect for people-watching.

Caffè Artigiano

763 Hornby St. & 604/685-5333. www.caffeartigiano.com. Sweets and sandwiches under C$8 (US$6). Sun–Thurs 6:30am–5pm; Fri–Sat 6:30am–6pm (West Pender location not open Sun). Bus: 22.

Death by Chocolate If your idea of heaven includes rich desserts, then Death by Chocolate is the place to be dispatched. The large menu comes with photographs, but beware: Objects on the page may appear smaller than they are; sharing is encouraged. Some of the tested favorites include: Simply Irresistible, chocolate pudding with a fudge center and covered in chocolate sauce; and Devil in Disguise, mocha fudge ice cream in Kahlúa chocolate sauce. Guilt-prone types can salve their consciences with more wholesome, fruitier desserts. Hell-bent ultra-chocoholics, on the other hand, should order up a Multitude of Sins: chocolate cake, chocolate mousse, and chocolate crepes stuffed with fruit, chocolate sauce, and, well, you get the idea.

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Various locations, including 1001 Denman St. and 1598 W. Broadway, & 604/730CHOC. www.deathbychocolate.ca. Items C$4.95–C$11 (US$3.70–US$8.25). AE, MC, V. W. Broadway location open 7am–midnight; hours vary at each location.

A real Italian caffè in KitsiFinds lano, the Epicurean brews a mean espresso. Locals and visitors flock to this tiny neighborhood deli, packing the sidewalk spots on nice days or the cozy small tables inside when the weather turns gray. Italian sweets, biscotti, and sorbet go well with any of the coffees, but for a savory treat, have a peek at the glass display case in the back. Freshly made antipasti, cold cuts, salads, panini sandwiches, and risotto are just some of the delectables available for lunch or takeout. Eat-in guests can now sip a glass of wine to go with the fab food as the Caffè finally obtained a liquor license. The menu changes regularly, as the owners try out new recipes. Let them know if you have a favorite, and you may find it in store next time.

Epicurean Delicatessen Caffè

1898 W. First Ave. & 604/731-5370. Fax 604/731-5369. Everything under C$9 (US$6.75). Daily 8am–9pm. Bus: 22 to Cornwall and Cypress.

Caffeine Nation Though softened up to the idea by a generation of Italian immigrants, the recent caffeine jag overtaking Vancouverites is no doubt due in part to our sister city to the south. There are now more than 60 of the Seattle-based Starbucks shops in the city, as well numerous other chain cafes. The Starbucks franchises facing each other on Robson and Thurlow are famed for the movie stars who drop in and the regular crowd of bikers who sit sipping lattes on their hogs. The city’s best java joint—fittingly enough—is Vancouver’s Best Coffee, 2959 W. Fourth Ave. (& 604/739-2136), on a slightly funky section of West Fourth Avenue at Bayswater. Nearly as good is Joe’s Cafe, 1150 Commercial Dr. (& 604/255-1046), in the heart of the immigrant- and activist-laden Commercial Drive area, where lesbian activists, Marxist intellectuals, Guatemalan immigrants, and little old Portuguese men all sit and sip their cappuccinos together peacefully. For the best lattes, see the review for Caffè Artigiano above.

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No self-respecting ice-cream fiend could Finds possibly pass up a visit to La Casa Gelato. Trust me; it’s worth the trek out to this obscure industrial area near Commercial Drive, where ice-cream lovers gather for a taste of one or more of the 198 flavors in store. Of course you don’t get that many flavors by simply serving up chocolate, vanilla, and strawberry. How about garlic, lavender, durian-fruit, basil, or hot chile ice cream? We love the pear with Gorgonzola sorbet. You’re entitled to at least several samples before committing to one or two flavors, so go ahead and be adventurous.

La Casa Gelato

1033 Venables St. & 604/251-3211. Everything under C$6 (US$4.50). Daily 10am–11pm. Bus: 10 to Commercial and Venables.

Senses Bakery This is a new, upscale patisserie with a Finds slightly muddled staff (at least when I was there) but exquisite chocolates handmade by Thomas Haas. It’s located downtown, opposite the Vancouver Art Gallery, at Georgia and Howe. Some extremely tempting high-end desserts are offered, including a famous chocolate sparkle cookie with the texture of a cookie but the taste of a truffle. 801 W. Georgia St. (at Howe). & 604/633-0138. Chocolates and desserts C$1.25–C$8 (US$1–US$6). Mon–Sat 10am–6pm. Bus: Any bus on Georgia St.

5 Exploring Vancouver P

erched on the edge of a great wilderness, Vancouver offers unmatched opportunities for exploring the outdoors. And yet, this city is completely urbane, with sidewalk cafes to match those in Paris and shopping streets that rival London’s. The forest of highrises ringing the central part of the city reminds some visitors of New York, while the buzz and movement of Chinatown is reminiscent of San Francisco. Comparisons with other places soon begin to pall, however, as you come to realize that Vancouver is entirely its own creation: a young, self-confident, sparklingly beautiful city.

SIGHTSEEING SUGGESTIONS If You Have 1 Day

See the sights while you eat your eggs. The breakfast spot with the best view is the Cafe Pacifica (& 604/895-2480) in the lobby of the Pan Pacific Hotel, where you can gaze at the mountains and watch the morning rush of floatplanes dropping in. After breakfast, walk, bike, or in-line skate the Stanley Park Seawall . While in Stanley Park, say hi to the sea otters in the Vancouver Aquarium . By now it’s definitely lunchtime, so come back into the West End and have lunch at one of the sidewalk cafes on Denman Street. Then wander through the West End with a stop at English Bay Beach . Afterwards, drive or take the bus out to the Museum of Anthropology on the campus of UBC. The masks and carvings are worth the trip. Return to downtown or the West End and have supper at a restaurant specializing in Pacific Northwest cuisine. Then head down to Robson Street to watch the evening parade of beautiful people. If You Have 2 Days

Start day 2 with a latte and a pastry at Caffè Artigiano and then head east into Gastown, the historic district of Vancouver, stopping to check out the First Nations art galleries on Hastings and Water streets. From there you can continue on by foot into Chinatown. Explore the area then go for dim sum. Afterwards, walk through trendy Yaletown and take the Aquabus, a miniferry,

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across False Creek to Granville Island , where you’ll find one of the best public markets in North America. Have dinner in the neighboring neighborhood of Kitsilano or back across False Creek in Yaletown. If You Have 3 Days

On day 3, head over to explore the North Shore and West Vancouver. Take a picnic lunch along (if you go by SeaBus, then Lonsdale Quay is a good spot to pick up supplies) and plan to eat outside at one of the area’s many scenic spots. Start your adventure at Capilano Suspension Bridge & Park , a century-old attraction in a beautiful forested setting. Then take the SkyRide tram up to Grouse Mountain Resort , enjoying the panoramic view of Vancouver far below. Lighthouse Park in West Vancouver is a wonderful picnic area. Come suppertime, eat at one of the North Shore restaurants with a view of the city—the Salmon House, the Beach House, or the Grouse Nest up on Grouse Mountain.

1 The Top Attractions DOWNTOWN & THE WEST END Kids The jewel of Vancouver, Stanley Park is a 400-hectare (1,000-acre) rainforest jutting out into the ocean from the edge of the busy West End. The second-largest urban forest in North America, it’s named after the same Lord Stanley who gave his name to the hockey trophy, though truth be told, His Lordship had little to do with the creation of the park. That owes more to a cabal of West End landowners who—looking to protect the value of their real estate—convinced the federal government to gift the beautiful peninsula to the young city as a park. Filled with towering cedars and firs, manicured lawns, flower gardens, placid lagoons, and countless trails that meander through it all, exploring the park is one of Vancouver’s quintessential experiences. The famed seawall runs along the waterside edge of the park, allowing cyclists and pedestrians to experience the magical interface of forest, sea, and sky. One of the most popular free attractions in the park is the collection of totem poles at Brockton Point, most of them carved in the 1980s to replace the original ones that were placed in the park in the 1920s and 1930s. The park is home to lots of wildlife, including beavers, coyotes, bald eagles, raccoons, trumpeter swans, brant geese, ducks, and skunks. For directions and maps, brochures, and exhibits on the nature and ecology of Stanley Park, visit the Lost Lagoon Nature House (& 604/257-8544;

Stanley Park

Downtown Vancouver Attractions

Canada Place & IMAX Theatre 6 Dr. Sun Yat-sen Classical Chinese Garden 18 Fairmont Hotel Vancouver 7 Holy Rosary Cathedral 11 Hotel Europe 17 H.R. MacMillan Space Centre 3 Lookout! Harbour Centre Tower 14 Marine Building 5 Museum of Anthropology 4 Provincial Law Courts 9 Science World British Columbia 19 Steam Clock 15 Storyeum 16 Sun Tower 12 UBC Botanical Garden & Nitobe Japanese Garden 4 Vancouver Aquarium Marine Science Centre 1 Vancouver Art Gallery 8 Vancouver Centennial Police Museum 18 Vancouver Maritime Museum 2 Vancouver Museum 3 Vancouver Public Library 10 Waterfront Station/SeaBus & SkyTrain 13

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open 10am–7pm July 1 to Labour Day; weekends only the rest of the year; free admission). On Sundays they offer Discovery Walks of the park. Equally nature-focused but with way more wow is the Vancouver Aquarium (see below). There’s also the Stanley Park’s Children’s Farm (& 604/257-8530), a petting zoo with peacocks, rabbits, calves, donkeys, and Shetland ponies. Next to the petting zoo is Stanley Park’s Miniature Railway (& 604/2578531), a diminutive steam locomotive that pulls passenger cars on a circuit through the woods. The park’s trio of restaurants includes the excellent Teahouse (p. 79) and Fish House (p. 78); the third isn’t worth patronizing. For swimmers, there’s Third Beach and Second Beach (p. 126), the latter with an outdoor pool beside English Bay. For kids there’s a free Spray Park near Lumberman’s Arch. Perhaps the best way to explore the park is to rent a bike (p. 127) or in-line skates and set off along the seawall. If you decide to walk, remember there’s a free shuttle bus that circles the park every 15 minutes, allowing passengers to alight and descend at most of the park’s many attractions. There’s also a wonderful horsedrawn carriage ride that begins near Lost Lagoon. Stanley Park. & 604/257-8400. www.city.vancouver.bc.ca/parks. Cost (for whole day) is C$5 (US$3.75) summer, C$3 (US$2.25) winter. Park does not close. Park attractions open late June to Labour Day daily 9:30am–7pm; Labour Day to late June daily 10am–5:30pm. Bus: 23, 35, or 135; free “Around the Park” shuttle bus circles the park at 15-min. intervals June 13–Sept 28 (visitors can get off and on at 14 points of interest). Parking inside the park often full; leave your car if possible. Kids One of North America’s largest and best, the Vancouver Aquarium houses more than 8,000 marine species, most in meticulously recreated environments. In the icy-blue Arctic Canada exhibit, you can see beluga whales whistling and blowing water at onlookers. Human-size freshwater fish inhabit the Amazon rainforest gallery, while overhead, an hourly rainstorm is unleashed in an atrium that houses three-toed sloths, brilliant blue and green poison tree frogs, and piranhas. Regal angelfish glide through a re-creation of Indonesia’s Bunaken National Park coral reef, and blacktip reef sharks menacingly scour the Tropical Gallery’s waters. (Call for the shark and sea otter feeding times.) The Pacific Canada exhibit is dedicated to sea life indigenous to BC waters, including the Pacific salmon and the giant Pacific octopus. On the Marine Mammal Deck, there are sea otters, Steller sea lions, beluga whales, and a Pacific white-sided dolphin. During

Vancouver Aquarium Marine Science Centre

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Ferguson Point 17 Fish House Restaurant 20 Girl in a Wet Suit statue 10 Hollow Tree/Geographic Tree 15 Horse-drawn Carriage Rides 4 Hummingbird Trail/Malkin Bowl 3 Japanese Monument 6 Mallard Trail/Brockton Oval 8 Nature Center 1 Prospect Point 13 Ravine Trail/ Beaver Lake 12 Second Beach 19 Siwash Rock 14 Teahouse Restaurant 18 Third Beach 16 Totem Poles 9 Vancouver Aquarium & Marine Science Center 7 Vancouver Children’s Zoo/ Variety Kids Farmyard 5 Vancouver Rowing Club 2 Variety Kids Water Park 11

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regularly scheduled shows, the aquarium staff explains marine mammal behavior while working with these impressive creatures. For a substantial extra fee (C$150/US$112 per person, C$210/ US$157 adult and 1 child age 8–12), you can have an up-close encounter with the belugas. Participants in the Beluga Encounter go behind the scenes to help feed these lovely white cetaceans, then head up to the Marine Mammal deck to take part in the belugas’ regular training session. Beluga encounters are available daily from 9 to 10:30am with extra encounters on weekends between 2 and 4pm. On the more reasonably priced Trainer Tours (C$20/US$15 adults, C$15/US$11 children 8–12), you go on a 45-minute behind-the-scenes tour, helping an aquarium trainer prepare the daily rations for and then feeding the sea otters or harbor seals; feeding the sea lions costs C$35/US$26 adults, C$15/US$11 children. Trainer tours are available daily but times vary. Call & 800/9311186 to reserve all of these programs ahead of time. Children must be 8 or older to participate. Note: If you have smaller children, I recommend the sea otters; Steller sea lions are enormous and sometimes a little cranky. Stanley Park. & 604/659-FISH. www.vanaqua.org. Admission C$17 (US$12) adults; C$13 (US$9) seniors, students, and youths 13–18; C$9.50 (US$6.75) children 4–12; free for children under 4. Late June to Sept 1 daily 9:30am–7pm; Sept 2 to late June daily 10am–5:30pm. Bus: 135; “Around the Park” shuttle bus June–Sept only. Parking C$5 (US$3.75) summer, C$3 (US$2.25) winter.

Vancouver Art Gallery Designed as a courthouse in the early 20th century and renovated into an art gallery by British Columbia’s leading late-20th-century architect Arthur Erickson, the VAG is an excellent stop for anyone who wants to see what sets the Canadian West Coast art apart from the rest of the world. There is an impressive collection of paintings by BC native Emily Carr, as well as examples of a unique Canadian art style created during the 1920s by members of the “Group of Seven,” which included Vancouver painter Fred Varley. On the contemporary side, the VAG hosts rotating exhibits of sculpture, graphics, photography, and video art, some from BC artists, many from around the world. The Annex Gallery offers rotating presentations of visually exciting educational exhibits for younger audiences. 750 Hornby St. & 604/662-4719 or 604/662-4700. www.vanartgallery.bc.ca. Admission C$13 (US$9.50) adults, C$9 (US$6.75) seniors, C$8 (US$6) students, C$30 (US$23) family, free for children 12 and under. Thurs 5–9pm by donation. Mon–Wed and Fri–Sun 10am–5:30pm; Thurs 10am–9pm. Closed Mon in fall and winter. SkyTrain: Granville. Bus: 3.

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GASTOWN & CHINATOWN This small reproduction of a classical Chinese scholar’s garden truly is a remarkable place, but to get the full effect it’s best to take the free guided tour. Untrained eyes will only see a pretty pond surrounded by bamboo and unusually shaped rocks. The engaging guides, however, can explain this unique urban garden’s Taoist yin-yang design principle, in which harmony is achieved through dynamic opposition. To foster opposition (and thus harmony) in the garden, Chinese designers place contrasting elements in juxtaposition: Soft moving water flows across solid stone; smooth swaying bamboo grows around gnarled immovable rocks; dark pebbles are placed next to light pebbles in the floor. Moving with the guide, you discover the symbolism of intricate carvings and marvel at the subtle, ever-changing views from covered serpentine corridors. This is one of two classical Chinese gardens in North America (the other is in Portland, Oregon) created by master artisans from Suzhou, the garden city of China.

Dr. Sun Yat-Sen Classical Chinese Garden

578 Carrall St. & 604/689-7133. www.vancouverchinesegarden.com. Admission C$8.25 (US$6.25) adults, C$6.75 (US$5) seniors, C$5.75 (US$4.30) children 6–18 and students, free for children under 5, family pass C$18 (US$14). Free guided tour included. May 1–June 14 daily 10am–6pm; June 15–Aug daily 9:30am–7pm; Sept daily 10am–6pm; Oct–Apr daily 10am–4:30pm. Bus: 19 or 22.

Storyeum Storyeum means “a place of stories.” And Kids that’s what you’ll get in this exciting new attraction in historic Gastown: an earful and eyeful of stories, all relating to British Columbia. This 70-minute show is so well performed and so well written that you can’t help but enjoy it. Visitors are taken down below street level in enormous circular elevators, then led through a series of underground theaters where dozens of professional actors portray dramatized events in BC’s history and development, from ancient First Nations cultures up through the coming of the railroad. Each vignette is enhanced by special effects and lighting. It’s a kind of unique storytelling theater that manages to be clever, upbeat, and optimistic without ignoring the darker side of white European settlement. 165A Water St. & 800/687-8142 or 604/687-8142. www.storyeum.com. Admission C$20–C$22 (US$15–US$16) adults, C$18–C$19 (US$13–US$14) seniors and youths 13–18, C$15–C$16 (US$11–US$12) children 6–12, free for children under 5. Summer daily 9am–7pm (tours every 30 min.); winter daily 10am–6pm (tours every 60 min.). Bus: 1 or 50.

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360 Degrees of Vancouver The most popular (and most touristed) spot from which to view Vancouver’s skyline is high atop the space-needle observation deck at the Lookout!, Harbour Centre Tower , 555 W. Hastings St. (& 604/689-0421). It’s a great place for firsttime visitors who want a panorama of the city. The glassencased Skylift whisks you up 166m (544 ft.) to the rooftop deck in less than a minute. The 360-degree view is remarkable. (Yes, that is Mt. Baker looming above the southeastern horizon.) Skylift admission is C$10 (US$7.50) for adults, C$9 (US$6.75) for seniors, C$7 (US$5.25) for students and youths 11 to 17, C$4 (US$3) children 4 to 10, free for children under 4. It’s open daily in summer from 8:30am to 10:30pm and in winter from 9am to 9pm.

A macabre and morbidly delightful little place, the Police Museum is dedicated to memorializing some of the worst crimes and crime-stoppers in the city’s short but colorful history. Housed in the old Vancouver Coroner’s Court—where actor Errol Flynn was autopsied after dropping dead in the arms of a 17-year-old girl—the museum features photos, text, and vintage equipment from files and evidence rooms of Vancouver’s finest. The confiscated illegal-weapons display looks like the props department for the film Road Warrior. There’s also a morgue with bits and pieces of damaged body parts in specimen bottles, a simulated autopsy room, a forensics lab, and a police radio room. On the lighter side, the museum also houses an immense collection of matchbox-size toy police cars from around the world. Vancouver Centennial Police Museum

240 E. Cordova St. & 604/665-3346. www.city.vancouver.bc.ca/police/museum. Admission C$6 (US$4.50) adults; C$4 (US$3) seniors, students, and youths 7–13; free for children 6 and under. Year-round Mon–Fri 9am–3pm; May–Aug also Sat 10am–3pm. Bus: 4 or 7.

THE WEST SIDE Kids Almost a city within a city, Granville Island has so much to offer that a day may not be enough to experience it all. Browse for crafts, pick up some fresh seafood, enjoy a great dinner, watch some Shakespeare in the park or attend the latest theater performance, rent a yacht, stroll along the waterfront, or simply run through the sprinkler on a hot summer day; it’s all there and more. If you only have a short period of time, make sure you

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Granville’s Greatest Hits Even though the bustling Public Market makes a fine destination in itself, Granville Island offers much more. To really get a feel for this neighborhood, stroll along the side streets and explore the alleys and lanes away from the main entrance. Some recommended attractions: • RailSpur Alley’s 12 artist studios are perfect for browsing; stop in at the Al’Arte Silk to see some of the beautifully hand-painted wearable silk art (RailSpur Alley 1369). • Art exhibits at the Emily Carr Institute (1399 Johnston St.; & 604/844-3800) showcase the works of the institute’s grads and students. You may be looking at the next Andy Warhol. Open daily 9am to 6pm; admission is free. • In the summer, check the Performance Works (& 604/ 687-3020) schedule for any free outdoor Shakespeare presentations or see what’s playing at the Arts Club Theatre (& 604/687-1644) or Waterfront Theatre (& 604/685-1731). • Paddle off into the sunset by renting a kayak from one of the marinas on the west side of the island. Ecomarine Ocean Kayak Centre (& 604/689-7575) has everything to get you started. A 3-hour kayak lesson for C$65 (US$49) teaches you the basic strokes. Or explore the waters around Stanley Park with a guide (C$89/US$67). Experienced paddlers may rent equipment (starting at C$32/US$24 per day for a single kayak). • Granville Island is one big playground. On a rainy day, duck into the Kids Only Market (daily 10am–6pm) to check out toys, kites, clothes, art supplies, and an indoor play area or visit the Granville Island Museum (& 604/ 683-1939) to admire its collection of model boats and trains. The museum is open daily from 10am to 5:30pm; admission is C$3.50 to C$6.50 (US$2.65–US$4.90), free for children 4 and under. On warm summer days, the Waterpark is the place to be (free of charge) and any day of the year kids never get tired of chasing seagulls on the dock. Open daily (weather permitting) from 10am to 6pm, late May until Labour Day.

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Tips More Time to Explore If you can’t bear to leave the island, consider staying at the Granville Island Hotel (p. 58). One of the best-kept secrets in town, this hotel is reasonably priced, has a fabulous waterfront location, and is located steps from all the island has to offer. Even if you don’t stay, it’s worth stopping by the hotel’s brewpub restaurant, The Dockside Brewery Company, for a brew with a view.

spend at least part of it in the Granville Island Public Market, one of the best all-around markets in the world. Once a declining industrial site, Granville Island maintains its original look, the former warehouses and factories now house galleries, artist studios, restaurants, and theaters; the cement plant on the waterfront is the only industrial tenant left. Access to Granville Island is by Aquabus from the West End, Yaletown, or Kitsilano (see “By Miniferry,” in chapter 2; the Aquabus drops you right at the public market) or across the bridge at Anderson Street (access from W. 2nd Ave.). Avoid driving over on weekends and holidays—you will spend more time in your car, trying to find a parking place, than in the galleries. Check the website (www.granville-island.net) for upcoming events and festivals or stop by the information center, behind the Kids Market. Located on the south shore of False Creek, under the Granville Street Bridge. For studio and gallery hours and other information about Granville Island, contact the information center at & 604/666-5784. www.granville-island.net. The market is open daily 9am–6pm. For information on getting to Granville Island, see “By Miniferry,” in chapter 2.

H.R. MacMillan Space Centre Kids Housed in the same building as the Vancouver Museum, the space center and observatory has hands-on displays and exhibits that will delight budding astronomy buffs and their parents (or older space buffs and their children). Displays are highly interactive: In the Cosmic Courtyard you can try your hand at designing a spacecraft or maneuvering a lunar robot. Or, punch a button and a get a punchy video explanation of the Apollo 17 manned-satellite engine that stands before you. Most exciting of all perhaps is the Virtual Voyages Simulator, which takes you on a voyage to Mars or a collision course with an oncoming comet. In the GroundStation Canada Theatre, there are video presentations about Canada’s contributions to the space program and

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about space in general. The StarTheatre shows movies—many of them for children—on an overhead dome. And on selected nights, you can shoot the moon through a half-meter telescope for C$10 (US$7.50) per camera (& 604/736-2655). 1100 Chestnut St., in Vanier Park. & 604/738-STAR. www.hrmacmillanspace centre.com. Admission C$14 (US$10) adults; C$11 (US$8) seniors, students, and youths 11–18; C$9.50 (US$7) children 5–10; C$6 (US$4.50) children under 5; C$40 (US$30) families (up to 5, maximum 2 adults). Additional Virtual Voyages experiences C$6 (US$4.50) each. Tues–Sun 10am–5pm. Closed Dec 25. Bus: 22.

This isn’t just any old museum. In 1976, architect Arthur Erickson re-created a classic Native post-and-beam structure out of poured concrete and glass to house one of the world’s finest collections of West Coast Native art. Enter through doors that resemble a huge, carved, bent-cedar box. Artifacts from different coastal communities flank the ramp leading to the Great Hall’s collection of totem poles. Haida artist Bill Reid’s touchable cedar bear and sea wolf sculptures sit at the Cross Roads; Reid’s masterpiece, The Raven and the First Men, is worth the price of admission all by itself. The huge carving in glowing yellow cedar depicts a Haida creation myth, in which Raven— the trickster—coaxes humanity out into the world from its birthplace in a clamshell. Some of Reid’s fabulous jewelry creations in gold and silver are also on display. Intriguingly, curators have recently begun salting contemporary Native artworks in among the old masterpieces—a sign that West Coast artistic traditions are alive and well. The Masterpiece Gallery’s argillite sculptures, beaded jewelry, and hand-carved ceremonial masks lead the way to the Visible Storage Galleries, where more than 15,000 artifacts are arranged by culture. You can open the glass-topped drawers to view small treasures and stroll past larger pieces housed in tall glass cases. (You can also read more detailed information about the items in conveniently placed reference catalogs.) Also at the museum is the somewhat incongruous Koerner Ceramics Gallery, a collection of European ceramics that—while interesting—is really only there because old man Koerner had the money to endow the wing to hold his collection. Don’t forget to take a walk around the grounds behind the museum. Overlooking Point Grey are two longhouses built according to the Haida tribal style, resting on the traditional north–south axis. Ten hand-carved totem poles stand in attendance along with contemporary carvings on the longhouse facades. Note: You might

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want to combine your visit to the Museum of Anthropology with the nearby UBC Botanical Garden and Nitobe Japanese Garden (see below). 6393 NW Marine Dr. (at Gate 4). & 604/822-5087. www.moa.ubc.ca. Admission C$9 (US$6.75) adults; C$7 (US$5.25) seniors, students, and children 6–18; free for children under 6; free Tues 5–9pm. May 21–Aug Wed–Mon 10am–5pm, Tues 10am–9pm; Sept–May 20 Wed–Sun 11am–5pm, Tues 11am–9pm. Closed Dec 25–26. Bus: 4, 10, or 99 (10-min. walk from UBC bus loop). Kids Science World British Columbia Science World is impossible to miss. It’s in the big blinking geodesic dome on the eastern end of False Creek. Inside, it’s a hands-on scientific discovery center where you and your kids can light up a plasma ball, walk through a 160-sq.-m (1,700-sq.-ft.) maze, wander through the interior of a camera, create a cyclone, watch a zucchini explode as it’s charged with 80,000 volts, stand inside a beaver lodge, play in wristdeep magnetic liquids, create music with a giant synthesizer, and watch mind-blowing three-dimensional slide and laser shows as well as other optical effects. In the OMNIMAX Theatre—a huge projecting screen equipped with surround sound—you can take a stunning trip through a coral reef. Science World also hosts many spectacular traveling exhibitions.

1455 Quebec St. & 604/443-7443. www.scienceworld.bc.ca. Admission C$13 (US$9.55) adults; C$8.50 (US$6.40) seniors, students, and children 4–17; free for children under 4; C$43 (US$32) family pass, including 2 adults and 4 children. Combination tickets available for OMNIMAX film. Mon–Fri 10am–5pm; Sat–Sun and holidays 10am–6pm. SkyTrain: Main Street–Science World.

UBC Botanical Garden & Nitobe Japanese Garden

Serious plant lovers will love the University of British Columbia. The prime attraction on campus, besides the fabulous Museum of Anthropology (see above), is the 28-hectare (69-acre) UBC Botanical Garden, home to over 10,000 species of trees, shrubs, and flowers grouped into a BC Native garden, a physic (or medicinal) garden, a food garden, and several others. There’s also an excellent plant and seed store. Give yourself at least an hour if you want to explore this garden. Nearby is the Nitobe Memorial Garden, an exquisitely beautiful traditional Japanese garden considered among the top five Japanese gardens in North America and one of the most authentic tea and stroll gardens outside of Japan. Give yourself about an hour to stroll through this serene garden dedicated to Inazo Nitobe (1862–1933), whose goal was to be “a bridge across the Pacific.” Cherry blossoms are at their peak in April and May, the iris bloom in June, and autumn brings colorful leaf displays.

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Botanical Garden: 6804 S.W. Marine Dr., Gate 8. & 604/822-4208. www.ubc botanicalgarden.org. Admission C$5 (US$3.75) adults; C$3 (US$2.25) seniors, students, and youth; free for children under 6. Nitobe Japanese Garden: 6565 NW Marine Dr., Gate 4. & 604/822-6038. www.nitobe.org. Admission C$3 (US$2.25) adults, C$2 (US$1.50) seniors, C$1.50 (US$1.10) students. Dual pass for both gardens C$6 (US$4.50). Mar to mid-Oct, both gardens daily 10am–6pm; otherwise daily 10am–5pm. Kids This museum houses the 1920s RCMP Arctic patrol vessel St. Roch. From the time Chris Columbus proved that the continent directly west of Europe was not Cathay, every European explorer’s overriding quest was to find the Northwest Passage, the seagoing shortcut to the riches of the east. This little ship is the one that finally did it. The boat has been preserved in a large atrium, with most of its original stores and equipment still onboard. Tours of the St. Roch are particularly popular with children—they get to clamber around the boat poking and prodding stuff. The other half of the museum holds intricate ship models (a few too many of these, unless you’re a serious model buff ), maps, prints, and a number of permanent exhibits. If the weather is pleasant, be sure to walk across the expansive front lawn at the edge of False Creek to Heritage Harbour, where the museum keeps a collection of beautiful vintage boats. It’s also where you can catch the miniferry to Granville Island or the West End.

Vancouver Maritime Museum

1905 Ogden Ave., in Vanier Park. & 604/257-8300. www.vmm.bc.ca. Admission C$8 (US$6) adults, C$5.50 (US$4.15) seniors and youths 6–19, C$18 (US$14) families, free for children under 6. Daily 10am–5pm. Closed Labour Day to Victoria Day (1st Mon in Sept to 4th Mon in May). Bus: 22, then walk 4 blocks north on Cypress St. Boat: False Creek Ferries dock at Heritage Harbour.

Vancouver Museum Established in 1894, the Vancouver Museum is dedicated to amassing evidence of the city’s history, from its days as a Native settlement and European outpost to the city’s early-20th-century maturation into a modern urban center. The exhibits allow visitors to walk through the steerage deck of a 19thcentury passenger ship, peek into a Hudson’s Bay Company frontier trading post, or take a seat in an 1880s Canadian Pacific Railway passenger car. Re-creations of Victorian and Edwardian rooms show how early Vancouverites decorated their homes. Rotating exhibits include a display of the museum’s collection of neon signage from Vancouver’s former glory days as the West Coast’s glitziest neonsign-filled metropolis during the 1940s and 1950s.

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1100 Chestnut St. & 604/736-4431. www.vanmuseum.bc.ca. Admission C$10 (US$7.50) adults, C$8 (US$6) seniors, C$6 (US$4.50) youths 4–19. Fri–Wed 10am–5pm; Thurs 10am–9pm. Bus: 22, then walk 3 blocks south on Cornwall Ave. Boat: Granville Island Ferry to Heritage Harbour.

NORTH VANCOUVER & WEST VANCOUVER Capilano Suspension Bridge & Park Vancouver’s first and oldest tourist trap (built in 1889), this attraction still works— mostly because there’s still something inherently thrilling about standing on a narrow, shaky walkway, 69m (226 ft.) above a canyon floor, held up by nothing but a pair of tiny cables. Set in a beautiful 8-hectare (20-acre) park about 15 minutes from downtown, the suspension bridge itself is a 135m-long (443-ft.) cedar-plank and steelcable footbridge, which sways gently above the Capilano River. Visitors nervously cross above kayakers and salmon shooting the rapids far below. A new attraction called “Treetops Adventure” features more bouncy bridges, only these are attached to giant tree trunks 24m (80 ft.) above the rainforest floor. In addition to the bridge, there’s a carving center where Native carvers demonstrate their skill; an exhibit describing the region’s natural history; guides in period costume who recount Vancouver’s frontier days; and a pair of restaurants. It’s all quite well done, though the fact remains that you’re paying a substantial entrance fee to walk across a bridge. If the admission price is a roadblock, you can have a similar experience at the nearby Lynn Canyon suspension bridge, which is almost as high, set in a far larger forest, almost untouristed, and absolutely free. (See “The Other Suspension Bridge,” below.) 3735 Capilano Rd., North Vancouver. & 604/985-7474. www.capbridge.com. Admission C$17 (US$13) adults, C$13 (US$9.40) seniors and students, C$8.50 (US$6.40) youths 13–16, C$4 (US$3) children 6–12, free for children under 6. May–Sept daily 8:30am–dusk; Oct–Apr daily 9am–5pm. Closed Dec 25. Bus: 246 from downtown Vancouver, 236 from Lonsdale Quay SeaBus terminal. Car: Hwy. 99 north across Lions Gate Bridge to Exit 14 on Capilano Rd.

Grouse Mountain Resort Once a small local ski hill, Grouse has been slowly developing itself into a year-round mountain-recreation park, offering impressive views and instantaneous access to the North Shore mountains. Located only a 15-minute drive from downtown, the SkyRide gondola transports you to the mountain’s 1,110m (3,641-ft.) summit in 8 minutes. (Hikers and cardiofitness fiends can take a near vertical trail called the Grouse Grind. The best of them can do it in 28 min.) The view from the top is one of the best around: the city and the entire lower mainland, from far

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Other Suspension Bridge

Lynn Canyon Park, in North Vancouver between Grouse Mountain and Mount Seymour Provincial Park on Lynn Valley Road, offers a cheaper and possibly more impressive alternative to the Capilano Suspension Bridge. True, the Lynn Canyon Suspension Bridge is both shorter and a little lower than the Capilano bridge (see above), but the waterfall and swirling whirlpools in the canyon below add both beauty and a certain fear-inducing fascination, which more than makes up for the loss of altitude. Plus, it’s free. Call the park’s Ecology Centre, 3663 Park Rd. (& 604/9813103), for more information.

up the Fraser Valley east across the Gulf of Georgia to Vancouver Island. You’ll also find a bar, restaurants, large-screen theater (Theatre in the Sky), ski and snowboard area, hiking and snowshoeing trails, skating pond, children’s snow park, interpretive forest trails, lumberjack show, helicopter tours, mountain-bike trails, sleigh rides, and a Native feast house. Many of these activities (including Theatre in the Sky; snowshoeing, ice skating, and sleigh rides in winter; the lumberjack show; and the Birds in Motion demonstrations) are free with your SkyRide ticket. The Hiwus Feast House serves authentic five-course Native meals along with storytelling and dance for C$69 (US$52) adults, C$39 (US$29) youths, C$29 (US$22) children. 6400 Nancy Greene Way, North Vancouver. & 604/984-0661. www.grouse mountain.com. SkyRide C$25 (US$19) adults, C$23 (US$17) seniors, C$14 (US$10) youths 13–18, C$8.95 (US$6.70) children 5–12, free for children under 4. SkyRide free with advance Observatory Restaurant reservation. Daily 9am–10pm. Bus: 232, then transfer to bus 236. SeaBus: Lonsdale Quay, then transfer to bus 236. Car: Hwy. 99 north across Lions Gate Bridge, take North Vancouver exit to Marine Dr., then up Capilano Rd. for 5km (3 miles).

2 Vancouver’s Plazas & Parks OUTDOOR PLAZA Unlike many cities, Vancouver’s great urban gathering places stand not at the center but on the periphery, on two opposite sides of the seawall that runs around Stanley Park: English Bay, on the south side of Denman Street, and Coal Harbour, on the northern,

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Burrard Inlet side, are where Vancouverites go to stroll and be seen. On warm sunny days, these two areas are packed. Another waterside gathering spot is Canada Place, built for Expo ’86. Built in the shape of a cruise ship, and serving as the city’s cruise-ship terminal (as well as a giant convention center, with a giant hotel on top for good measure), it has wide walkways all around it that are super for strolling and offer fabulous views of the mountains. The convention center, which is undergoing an expansion to be completed by 2008, will be the media headquarters during the 2010 Olympic and Paralympic Winter Games. Designed by architect Arthur Erickson to be Vancouver’s central plaza, Robson Square—downtown, between Hornby and Howe streets from Robson to Smithe streets—has never really worked. The square, which anchors the north end of the Provincial Law Courts complex designed by Erickson in 1972, suffers from a basic design flaw: It’s sunk one story below street level and next to impossible to access. The Law Courts complex, which sits on a higher level, raised above the street, is beautifully executed with shrubbery, cherry trees, sculptures, and a triple-tiered waterfall, but Robson Square below is about as appealing as a drained swimming pool. Just opposite Robson square, however, the steps of the Vancouver Art Gallery are a great people-place, filled with loungers, political agitators, and old men playing chess. It just goes to show you that grandiose urban theory and urban design, especially back in the 1970s, didn’t always take the human element into account. Library Square—a few blocks east from Robson Square at the corner of Robson and Homer streets—is an example of a new urban space that really works. It’s immensely popular with locals and has been since it opened in 1995. People sit on the steps, bask in the sunshine, read, harangue passersby with half-baked political ideas, and generally seem to enjoy themselves.

PARKS & GARDENS Park and garden lovers are in heaven in Vancouver. The wet, mild climate is ideal for gardening, and come spring the city blazes with blossoming cherry trees, rhododendrons, camellias, azaleas, and spring bulbs. Roses are a favorite summer bloom. You’ll see gardens everywhere, and urban gardens with fountains have been incorporated into most of the city’s new development. Nature is part of the scheme here. For general information about Vancouver’s parks, call & 604/257-8400 or try www.parks.vancouver.bc.ca. For information on Stanley Park , the queen of them all, see p. 99.

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On the West Side you’ll find the magnificent UBC Botanical Garden, one of the largest living botany collections on the West Coast, and the sublime Nitobe Japanese Garden ; for descriptions of both, see p. 110. In Chinatown, the Dr. Sun Yat-Sen Classical Chinese Garden (p. 105) is a small, tranquil oasis in the heart of the city, built by artisans from Suzhou, China; right next to it, accessed via the Chinese Cultural Centre on Pender Street, is the pretty (and free) Dr. Sun Yat-Sen Park, with a pond, walkways, and plantings. On the West Side, Queen Elizabeth Park —at Cambie Street and West 33rd Avenue—sits atop a 150m-high (492-ft.) extinct volcano and is the highest urban vantage point south of downtown, offering panoramic views in all directions (although leafy deciduous trees now block some of the best views). It’s Vancouver’s most popular location for wedding-photo sessions, with well-manicured gardens and a profusion of colorful flora. There are areas for lawn bowling, tennis, pitch-and-putt golf, and picnicking. The Bloedel Conservatory (& 604/257-8584) stands next to the park’s huge sunken garden, an amazing reclamation of an abandoned rock quarry. A 42m-high (138-ft.) domed structure, the conservatory houses a tropical rainforest with more than 100 plant species as well as free-flying tropical birds. Admission to the conservatory is C$3.95 (US$2.95) for adults and C$2.95 (US$2.20) for seniors and children. Take bus no. 15 to reach the park. VanDusen Botanical Gardens (5251 Oak St., at W. 37th Ave.; & 604/878-9274; www.vandusengarden.org) is located just a few blocks from Queen Elizabeth Park and the Bloedel Conservatory. This 22-hectare (54-acre) botanical garden concentrates on whole ecosystems. From trees hundreds of feet high down to the little lichens on the smallest of damp stones, the gardeners at VanDusen attempt to re-create the plant life of an enormous number of different environments. Depending on which trail you take, you may find yourself wandering through the Southern Hemisphere section, the Sino-Himalayan garden, or the northern California garden where giant sequoias reach for the sky. Should all this tree gazing finally pall, head for the farthest corner of the garden where you’ll find a devilishly difficult Elizabethan garden maze. Admission April through September C$7.50 (US$5.60) adults, C$5.20 (US$3.90) seniors, C$5.70 (US$4.25) youths 13 to 18, C$3.90 (US$2.90) children 6 to 12, C$17 (US$13) families, free for children under 6. Admission is about C$2 less from October through March. Open daily 10am to dusk. Take bus no. 17.

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Adjoining UBC on the city’s west side at Point Grey, Pacific Spirit Regional Park, called the Endowment Lands by long-time Vancouver residents, is the largest green space in Vancouver. Comprising 754 hectares (1,862 acres) of temperate rainforest, marshes, and beaches, the park includes nearly 35km (22 miles) of trails ideal for hiking, riding, mountain biking, and beachcombing. Across the Lions Gate Bridge, there are six provincial parks that delight outdoor enthusiasts year-round. Good in winter or for those averse to strenuous climbing is the publicly maintained Capilano River Regional Park, 4500 Capilano Rd. (& 604/666-1790), surrounding the Capilano Suspension Bridge & Park (p. 112). Hikers can follow a gentle trail by the river for 7km (4.25 miles) down the well-maintained Capilano trails to the Burrard Inlet and the Lions Gate Bridge, or about a mile upstream to Cleveland Dam, which serves as the launching point for white-water kayakers and canoeists. The Capilano Salmon Hatchery, on Capilano Road (& 604/ 666-1790), is on the river’s east bank about a half a kilometer (1⁄2 mile) below the Cleveland Dam. Approximately two million Coho and Chinook salmon are hatched annually in glass-fronted tanks connected to the river by a series of channels. You can observe the hatching fry (baby fish) before they depart for open waters, as well as the mature salmon that return to the Capilano River to spawn. Admission is free, and the hatchery is open daily from 8am to 7pm (until 4pm in the winter). Drive across the Lions Gate Bridge and follow the signs to North Vancouver and the Capilano Suspension Bridge. Or take the SeaBus to Lonsdale Quay and transfer to bus no. 236; the trip takes less than 45 minutes. Eight kilometers (5 miles) west of the Lions Gate Bridge on Marine Drive West, West Vancouver, is Lighthouse Park . This 74-hectare (183-acre) rugged-terrain forest has 13km (8 miles) of groomed trails and—because it has never been clear-cut—some of the largest and oldest trees in the Vancouver area. One of the paths leads to the 18m (59-ft.) Point Atkinson Lighthouse, on a rocky bluff overlooking the Strait of Georgia and a fabulous view of Vancouver. It’s an easy trip on bus no. 250. For information about other West Vancouver parks, call & 604/925-7200 weekdays. Driving up-up-up the mountain from Lighthouse Park will eventually get you to the top of Cypress Provincial Park. Stop halfway at the scenic viewpoint for a sweeping vista of the Vancouver skyline, the harbor, the Gulf Islands, and Washington State’s Mount Baker, which peers above the eastern horizon. The park is 12km (71⁄2 miles) north of Cypress Bowl Road and the Highway 99

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junction in West Vancouver. Cypress Provincial Park has an intricate network of trails maintained for hiking during the summer and autumn and for downhill and cross-country skiing during the winter. Rising 1,430m (4,690 ft.) above Indian Arm, Mount Seymour Provincial Park, 1700 Mt. Seymour Rd., North Vancouver (& 604/986-2261), offers another view of the area’s Coast Mountains range. The road to this park roams through stands of Douglas fir, red cedar, and hemlock. Higher than Grouse Mountain, Mount Seymour has a spectacular view of Washington State’s Mount Baker on clear days. It has challenging hiking trails that go straight to the summit, where you can see Indian Arm, Vancouver’s bustling commercial port, the city skyline, the Strait of Georgia, and Vancouver Island. The trails are open all summer for hiking; during the winter, the paths are maintained for skiing, snowboarding, and snowshoeing. Mount Seymour is open daily from 7am to 10pm. The Fraser River delta is south of Vancouver. Thousands of migratory birds following the Pacific flyway rest and feed in this area, especially at the 340-hectare (840-acre) George C. Reifel Bird Sanctuary, 5191 Robertson Rd., Westham Island (& 604/9466980; www.reifelbirdsanctuary.com), which was created by a former bootlegger and wetland-bird lover. Many other waterfowl species have made this a permanent habitat. More than 263 species have been spotted, including a Temminck’s stint, a spotted redshank, bald eagles, Siberian (trumpeter) swans, peregrine falcons, blue herons, owls, and coots. The Snow Goose Festival, celebrating the annual arrival of the huge, snowy white flocks, is held here during the first weekend of November. The snow geese stay in the area until mid-December. (High tide, when the birds are less concealed by the marsh grasses, is the best time to visit.) An observation tower, 3km (2 miles) of paths, free birdseed, and picnic tables make this wetland reserve an ideal outing spot from October to April, when the birds are wintering in abundance. The sanctuary is wheelchair accessible and open daily from 9am to 4pm. Admission is C$4 (US$3) for adults and C$2 (US$1.50) for seniors and children.

3 Especially for Kids Pick up copies of the free monthly newspapers BC Parent, 4479 W. 10th Ave., Vancouver, BC V6R 4P2 (& 604/221-0366; www.bcparent.com); and West Coast Families, 8–1551 Johnston St., Vancouver, BC V6H 3R9 (& 604/689-1331). West Coast

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Families’ centerfold, “Fun in the City,” and event calendar, list everything currently going on, including CN IMAX (p. 173) shows at Canada Place Pier, OMNIMAX (& 604/443-7443) shows at Science World British Columbia (p. 110), and free children’s programs. Both publications are available at Granville Island’s Kids Market and at neighborhood community centers throughout the city. For a description of Vancouver’s newest kid-friendly attraction, called Storyeum, see p. 105. To give kids (and yourself ) an overview of the city, you can take the fun trolley tour offered by Vancouver Trolley Company (& 888/451-5581 or 604/801-5515; www.vancouvertrolley.com). Gas-powered trolleys run along a route through Downtown, Chinatown, the West End, and Stanley Park (for more information, see “Organized Tours,” below). Stanley Park (p. 99) offers a number of attractions for children, including a fabulous and free Spray Park near Lumberman’s Arch. Stanley Park’s Children’s Farm (& 604/257-8531) has peacocks, rabbits, calves, donkeys, and Shetland ponies. Next to the petting zoo is Stanley Park’s Miniature Railway (& 604/ 257-8531), a diminutive steam locomotive with passenger cars that runs on a circuit through the woods. The zoo and railway are open from 11am to 4pm daily June through early September, plus Christmas week and, weather permitting, on weekends October through March. Admission for the petting zoo or the miniature railroad is C$5 (US$3.75) for adults, C$3.50 (US$2.60) for seniors, C$3.75 (US$2.80) for youths 13 to 18, and C$2.50 (US$1.90) for kids 2 to 12. Second Beach on the park’s western rim has a playground, a snack bar, and an immense heated oceanside pool (& 604/2578371), open from May through September. Admission is C$4.40 (US$3.30) for adults, C$3.10 (US$2.30) for seniors, C$3.30 (US$2.50) for youths 13 to 18, and C$2.25 (US$1.70) for children 6 to12. Kids will also be impressed with the collection of giant totem poles in Stanley Park, and the entire family will enjoy the horsedrawn carriage rides that begin near Lost Lagoon. Also in Stanley Park, the Vancouver Aquarium Marine Science Centre (p. 102) has sea otters, sea lions, whales, and numerous other marine creatures, as well as many exhibits geared toward children. Right in town, Science World British Columbia (p. 110) is a hands-on kids’ museum where budding scientists can get their hands into everything. At the Vancouver Maritime Museum

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(p. 111), kids can dress up like a pirate or a naval captain and board the RCMP ice-breaker St. Roch. A trip to Granville Island by miniferry (p. 106) will delight kids, and there are a couple of specific kids’ places they’ll really enjoy. Granville Island’s Kids Market, 1496 Cartwright St. (& 604/689-8447), is open daily from 10am to 6pm. Playrooms and 28 shops filled with toys, books, records, clothes, and food are all child-oriented. At Granville Island’s Water Park and Adventure Playground, 1496 Cartwright St., kids can really let loose with movable water guns and sprinklers. They can also have fun on the water slides or in the wading pool. The facilities are open during the summer (weather permitting) daily from 10am to 6pm. Admission is free; changing facilities are nearby at the False Creek Community Centre (& 604/257-8195). Across Burrard Inlet on the North Shore, Maplewood Farm, 405 Seymour River Place, North Vancouver (& 604/929-5610; www. maplewoodfarm.bc.ca), has more than 200 barnyard animals (cows, horses, ponies, pigs, sheep, donkeys, ducks, chickens, and more) living on its 2-hectare (5-acre) farm, which is open daily year-round. A few working farms once operated in the area but were put out of business by competition from the huge agricultural concerns in Fraser River valley. The parks department rescued this one and converted it into an attraction. The ticket booth (a former breeding kennel) sells birdseed for feeding the ducks and other fowl. The farm also offers pony rides. Special events include the summertime Sheep Fair, the mid-September Farm Fair, 101 Pumpkins Day in late October, and the Country Christmas weekend. The farm is open Tuesday through Sunday from 10am to 4pm, and on designated holiday Mondays during the same hours. Admission is C$3.35 (US$2.55) for adults, C$1.65 (US$1.25) for seniors and children. Take bus no. 210 and transfer to the no. 211 or 212. Greater Vancouver Zoo, 5048–264th St., Aldergrove (& 604/ 856-6825; www.greatervancouverzoo.com), located 48km (30 miles) east of downtown Vancouver (about a 45-min. drive), is a lush 48-hectare (119-acre) reserve filled with lions, tigers, jaguars, ostriches, elephants, buffalo, elk, antelope, zebras, giraffes, a rhino, hippos, and camels. In all, 124 species roam in spacious enclosures on the grounds. The zoo also has food service and a playground. It’s open daily 9:30am to 4pm from October through March, 9:30am to 7pm from April through September. Admission is C$13 (US$9.75) for adults, C$10 (US$7.50) for seniors and children 3 to

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15, and is free for children under 3. Take the Trans-Canada Highway to Aldergrove, exit 73; parking is C$3 (US$2.25) per day. The Burnaby Village Museum, 6501 Deer Lake Ave., Burnaby (& 604/293-6501), is a 3.5-hectare (83⁄4-acre) re-creation of the town as it might have appeared in the 1920s. You can walk along boardwalk streets among costumed townspeople, shop in a general store, ride a vintage carousel, peek into an authentic one-room schoolhouse, and visit a vintage ice-cream parlor that’s been at the same location since the turn of the 20th century. At Christmastime, the whole village is aglow in Christmas lights and Victorian decorations. Admission is C$8 (US$6) for adults; C$5.70 (US$4.25) for seniors, students, and youths 13 to 18; C$4.85 (US$3.65) for children 6 to 12; and free for children under 6. It’s open daily May through September 6 from 11am to 4:30pm, November 20 through December 10 daily noon to 5pm., December 11 through 20 from noon to 8pm, and on holidays noon to 8pm throughout the year. From the Metrotown Skystation take bus no. 110 to Deer Lake. Tip: Time your trip to the Burnaby Village Museum to include a visit to the Hart House Restaurant, located at Deer Lake (6664 Deer Lake Ave.; & 604/298-4278). This elegant Tudor-style mansion houses an excellent restaurant, which is a perfect brunch or lunch spot, especially in summer when guests can stroll the lovely gardens. It’s open Tuesday through Sunday for lunch from 11:30am to 2:30pm and for dinner from 5:30 to 10pm. Rainy days are no problem at the Playdium at Metrotown, 4700 Kingsway, Burnaby (& 604/433-7529; www.playdium.com), where a huge variety of electronic diversions awaits kids and adults. It’s open Sunday through Thursday from 11am to midnight, Friday and Saturday 11am to 2am. Cost depends on the number of games you play. For a more traditional family experience, go to Playland Family Fun Park, Exhibition Park, East Hastings and Cassiar streets (& 604/255-5161). Admission for unlimited rides is C$23 (US$17) for those 1.2m (4 ft.) and taller, and C$10 (US$7.50) for those under 1.2m (4 ft.) tall for limited rides. Admission for an adult with a child under 12 is C$10 (US$7.50). Relive your childhood at this amusement park by riding on the ornate carousel and wooden roller coaster and playing miniature golf. There’s also a Nintendo Pavilion, Electric City Arcade, and petting zoo. The park is open weekends and holidays from late April to mid-June and Labour Day to the end of September from 11am to 7pm; mid-June to Labour Day daily from 11am to 9pm. Take bus no. 14 or 16.

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The Fort Langley National Historic Site, 23433 Mavis Ave., Fort Langley (& 604/513-4777), is the birthplace of British Columbia. In 1827, the Hudson’s Bay Company established this settlement to supply its provincial posts. Costumed craftspeople demonstrate blacksmithing, coppering, and woodworking skills, bringing this landmark back to life. It’s open daily from 10am to 5pm March through October, and weekdays only 10am to 5pm from November through February. Admission is C$5.75 (US$4.30) for adults, C$5 (US$3.75) for seniors, C$3 (US$2.25) for children 6 to 16, and is free for children under 6; a family pass is C$15 (US$11). To get there, take the SkyTrain to Surrey Central Station and transfer to bus no. 501. Note: The main street of Fort Langley Village, Glover Road, is packed with antiques shops, cafes, and a bookstore. Only a 2-minute stroll from the historic site, it makes a fine lunch destination. Open during summer, Splashdown Park, 4799 Nu Lelum Way, Tsawwassen (& 604/943-2251; www.splashdownpark.ca), is a 3minute drive from the Tsawwassen ferry terminal, just south of Vancouver. With 13 enormous water slides, a giant hot tub, a pool, a picnic area, inner tubes, and volleyball and basketball courts, it’s a great escape for kids of all ages. Check for hours as they change yearly. Generally, from May 25 to June 25 it’s open daily from 10am to 4pm (until 6pm on Fri, until 7pm on Sat and Sun); from June 26 to August 22 it’s open daily 10am to 8pm (Fri until 6pm only); from August 23 to September 6, hours are daily 10am to 7pm (Fri until 6pm). Admission is C$20 (US$15) for anyone over 48 inches tall, C$14 (US$10) for anyone under 48 inches tall, and C$69 (US$52) for a family pass (two adults and two children). The prospect of walking high above the rushing waters is the main draw at the Capilano Suspension Bridge & Park (p. 112) and the Lynn Canyon Suspension Bridge (see “The Other Suspension Bridge,” on p. 113). In winter, Mount Seymour Provincial Park (see “Skiing & Snowboarding,” on p. 134) and Grouse Mountain Resort (p. 112) offer ski programs for kids and adults. A 45-minute drive north of Vancouver, the BC Museum of Mining, Highway 99, Britannia Beach (& 800/896-4044; www.bc museumofmining.org), is impossible to miss. Located at the head of Howe Sound, it’s marked by a 235-ton truck parked in front. During the summer it offers guided tours of the old copper mine, demonstrations of mining techniques, and includes an underground mine tour and even a gold-panning area where anyone can try straining gravel for the precious metal. It’s open daily from the first

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Sunday in May to Thanksgiving from 9am to 4:30pm; the rest of the year it’s closed on weekends. Call ahead for tour schedule; allow about 11⁄2 to 2 hours. Admission is C$13 (US$9.70) for adults, C$11 (US$8.20) for seniors, students, and youths; and C$45 (US$34) for families; it’s free for children under 5. A whale-watching excursion is one of the most exciting adventures you can give a kid. See “Wildlife-Watching” later in this chapter for information.

4 Organized Tours If you don’t have the time to arrange your own sightseeing tour, let the experts take you around Vancouver. They will escort you in a bus, trolley, double-decker bus, seaplane, helicopter, boat, ferry, taxi, vintage car, or horse-driven carriage.

BUS TOURS Gray Line of Vancouver, 255 E. First Ave. (& 800/667-0882 or 604/879-3363; www.grayline.ca), offers a wide array of tour options. The “Deluxe Grand City Tour” is a 31⁄2-hour excursion through Stanley Park, Gastown, Chinatown, Canada Place, Queen Elizabeth Park, Robson Street, Shaughnessy, and English Bay Beach. Offered year-round, it costs C$45 (US$34) for adults and C$31 (US$23) for children 3 to 11. Departing at 9:15am and 2pm, the bus picks you up from downtown hotels approximately 30 minutes before departure. The daily “Mountains and Sea Tour” takes you up to Grouse Mountain and the Capilano Suspension Bridge. Departing daily at 2pm, it costs C$79 (US$59) for adults, C$74 (US$55) for seniors and students, and C$55 (US$41) for children 3 to 11, including admission and the SkyRide funicular up to Grouse Mountain Resort. Other offerings include day, overnight, and multinight package tours of Vancouver, Victoria, and Whistler, plus helicopter tours and dinner cruises. Vancouver Trolley Company, 875 Terminal Ave., Vancouver (& 888/451-5581 or 604/801-5515; www.vancouvertrolley.com), operates gas-powered trolleys along a route through Downtown, Chinatown, the West End, and Stanley Park. Between 9am and 6pm in summer (4:30pm in winter), passengers can get on and off at any of the 23 stops, explore, and catch another scheduled trolley. Onboard, drivers provide detailed tour commentary. Tickets are C$28 (US$21) for adults and C$14 (US$10) for children 4 to 12. Purchase tickets from the drivers or at the ticket booth in Gastown at 157 Water St.

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West Coast City and Nature Sightseeing, 4012 Myrtle St., Burnaby (& 604/451-1600; www.vancouversightseeing.com), offers a variety of minicoach tours, including Vancouver City/ Capilano Suspension Bridge for C$58 (US$44) for adults, C$55 (US$41) for seniors and students, and C$34 (US$25) for children 5 to 12; Grouse Mountain/Capilano Suspension Bridge for C$78 (US$58) for adults, C$74 (US$55) for seniors and students, and C$47 (US$35) for children; and Whistler/Shannon Falls for C$76 (US$57) for adults, C$73 (US$55) seniors and students, and C$42 (US$32) for children 5 to 12. Children under 4 go free. The staff also offers private and customized tours such as a Native Culture Tour, garden tour, bear habitat tour on Mount Seymour, or a visit to the city’s art galleries. Minicoaches pick up passengers from downtown hotels, cruise ships, the airport, and the bus/railway station; phone for departure times.

BOAT TOURS Harbour Cruises, Harbour Ferries, no. 1, north foot of Denman Street (& 604/688-7246; www.boatcruises.com), will take you on a 3-hour Sunset Dinner Cruise, including a catered gourmet meal and onboard entertainment; cost for adults, seniors, and students is C$65 (US$49); for children 2 to 11, C$55 (US$41). The cruise leaves at 7pm May through October. The 4-hour Indian Arm Luncheon Cruise (May–Sept) includes a salmon lunch, with departure at 11am. Cost for adults, seniors, and children is C$50 (US$38). Harbour Cruises also conducts a 75-minute narrated Harbour Tour aboard the MPV Constitution, an authentic 19th-century stern-wheeler with a smokestack. Tours depart at 11:30am, 1pm, and 2:30pm daily from May 8 to September 20 and once a day at 2:30pm April through May 7 and September 21 through October. Fares are C$19 (US$14) for adults, C$16 (US$12) for seniors and youths (12–17), C$7 (US$5.25) for children 5 to 11, and free for children under 5. Accent Cruises, 1676 Duranleau St. (& 604/688-6625; www. champagnecruises.com), offers a 21⁄2-hour Sunset Cruise departing Granville Island daily May through October at 5:45pm. Cost for adults is C$60 (US$45) with dinner, C$25 (US$19) without. Paddlewheeler River Adventures, New Westminster Quay, New Westminster (& 604/525-4465; www.vancouverpaddlewheeler. com), operates Fraser River tours from New Westminster aboard the 19th-century vessel SS Native. The company offers a 3-hour entertainment cruise Wednesday through Saturday evenings with live

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music, departing at 7pm. Ticket prices are C$20 (US$15); food and beverages can be purchased on board. More interesting but not regularly scheduled are the lunch cruises and day trips up to historic Fort Langley; call or visit the website for dates.

AIR TOURS Baxter Aviation Adventure Tours (& 800/661-5599 or 604/683-6525; www.baxterair.com), operates daily floatplane flights from its downtown Vancouver terminal next to Canada Place cruise-ship terminal. Floatplanes are single-prop, six-seater planes that take off and land on water. The 20-minute “Vancouver Scenic” tour (C$79/US$59 per person for groups of four) flies over Stanley Park and all around the metro region, giving you an unparalleled bird’s-eye view of the magnificent terrain; the 5-hour “Whistler Mountain Resort” tour (C$319/US$239 per person for groups of four) includes a 3-hour stopover. Other tours will take you to Victoria, glacial lakes, and prime fly-fishing and whale-watching spots. Harbour Air (& 800/665-0212 or 604/274-1277; www.harbourair.com) is on Coal Harbour just steps west of the Canada Place Pier. Look for the seaplanes arriving and departing. Thirty-minute seaplane flights over downtown Vancouver, Stanley Park, and the North Shore are C$95 (US$71) per person; C$79 (US$59) if your party includes four or more people. Many longer tours to alpine lakes and glaciers and nearby islands, as well as regularly scheduled flights to Victoria, Nanaimo, and Prince Rupert, are also available. From April through September, Helijet Charters (& 800/9874354 or 604/273-4688; www.helijet.com), offers a variety of daily tours that depart from their helipad on top of Grouse Mountain. The “West Coast Spectacular” is a 20-minute tour of the city, Stanley Park, and North Shore mountains for C$140 (US$105) per person. For a bird’s-eye view of the city, the 30-minute “Greater Vancouver Scenic Tour” costs C$165 (US$124) and the “Harbour Tour” lasts 20 minutes and costs C$135 (US$101); these prices are per person with a minimum of four people. The “Fly, Dine, and Drive” package takes you by helicopter from downtown Vancouver to the top of Grouse Mountain for dinner, returning to the city by limousine; it costs C$322 (US$241) per person for a party of two.

SPECIALTY TOURS Early Motion Tours, 1–1380 Thurlow St. (& 604/687-5088), offers private sightseeing tours around Vancouver aboard a restored 1930 Model A Ford Phaeton convertible that holds up to four

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passengers plus the driver. Reservations are required. Limousine rates apply: C$100 (US$75) per hour for up to four people with a 1-hour minimum. The office is open daily from 7:30am to 8pm. AAA Horse & Carriage Ltd., Stanley Park (& 604/681-5115; www.stanleyparktours.com), carries on a century-old tradition of horse-drawn carriage rides through Stanley Park . Tours depart every 30 minutes mid-March through October from the lower aquarium parking lot on Park Drive near the Georgia Street park entrance. Tours last an hour and cover portions of the park that even most locals have never seen. Rates are C$21 (US$15) for adults, C$19 (US$14) for seniors and students, C$13 (US$9.75) for children 3 to 12, and children under 2 go free. Yes, the truth is out there and so are the X-Files fans. Even though the series has ended, die-hards can still depart on the X Tour (& 604/609-2770; www.x-tour.com) for guided tours of X-Files shooting locations around Vancouver, along with other sights guaranteed to delight the true believer. Costs are from C$25 (US$19) per adult for a 1-hour walking tour to C$149 (US$112) per person (minimum of two) for a 3-hour limo tour.

FIRST NATIONS TOURS The Tsleil-Waututh Nation of North Vancouver offers a number of cultural and eco-tours that provide an introduction to both First Nations culture and the stunning Indian Arm fjord. Their company, Takaya Tours, 3093 Ghum-Lye Dr., North Vancouver (& 604/ 940-7410; www.takayatours.com), offers canoe tours in traditional northwest canoes, plant nature walks, full moon paddles, and other tours, at prices running from C$40 to C$75 (US$30–US$56).

WALKING TOURS Walkabout Historic Vancouver (& 604/720-0006; www.walk abouthistoricvancouver.com) offers 2-hour walking tours through Vancouver and Granville Island historic sites, complete with guides dressed as 19th-century schoolmarms. Tours depart daily at 10am and 2pm February through November, and by request during other months. Tours are wheelchair accessible. The cost is C$25 (US$19) per person. During the summer months (June–Aug), the Architectural Institute of BC (& 604/638-8588, ext. 306; www.aibc.ca) offers a number of architectural walking tours of downtown Vancouver neighborhoods, including Chinatown, for only C$5 (US$3.75) per person. The 2-hour tours run Tuesday through Saturday and depart

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at 1pm from different locations in the city. Call or visit the website for details and to book. If you want to devise your own walking tour, the Tourism Vancouver Touristinfo Centre at 200 Burrard St. (p. 22) has a number of brochures that will guide you through the city.

5 Outdoor Activities Vancouver is definitely an outdoors-oriented city and just about every imaginable sport has a world-class outlet within the city limits. Downhill and cross-country skiing, snowshoeing, sea kayaking, fly-fishing, hiking, paragliding, and mountain biking are just a few of the options. Activities that can be enjoyed in the vicinity include rock climbing, river rafting, and heli-skiing. An excellent resource for outdoor enthusiasts is Mountain Equipment Co-op, 130 W. Broadway (& 604/872-7858; www. mec.ca). The MEC’s retail store has a knowledgeable staff, the co-op publishes an annual mail-order catalog, and you can find useful outdoor activities information on the website.

BEACHES Only 10% of Vancouver’s annual rainfall occurs during June, July, and August; 60 days of summer sunshine is not uncommon. In addition to being a great place for viewing sunsets, English Bay Beach , at the end of Davie Street off Denman Street and Beach Avenue, has an interesting history. For more than 35 years it was Joe Fortes’s front yard. Fortes was a legendary Caribbean-born lifeguard and bartender who made English Bay Beach his home. The bathhouse dates to the turn of the 20th century, and a huge playground slide is mounted on a raft just off the beach every summer. On Stanley Park’s western rim, Second Beach is a quick stroll north from English Bay Beach. A playground, a snack bar, and an immense heated oceanside pool (& 604/257-8370), open from May through September, makes this a convenient and fun spot for families. Admission to the pool is C$4.40 (US$3.30) for adults, C$3.10 (US$2.30) for seniors, C$3.30 (US$2.50) for youths 13 to 18, and C$2.25 (US$1.70) for children 6 to 12. Farther along the seawall, due north of Stanley Park Drive, lies secluded Third Beach. Locals tote along grills and coolers to this spot, a popular place for summer-evening barbecues and sunset watching. The hollow tree, Geographic Tree, and Siwash Rock are neighboring points of interest.

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South of English Bay Beach, near the Burrard Street Bridge, is Sunset Beach. Running along False Creek, it’s actually a picturesque strip of sandy beaches filled with enormous driftwood logs that serve as windbreaks and provide a little privacy for sunbathers and picnickers. There’s a snack bar, a soccer field, and a long, gently sloping grassy hill for people who prefer lawn to sand. On the West Side, Kitsilano Beach , along Arbutus Drive near Ogden Street, is affectionately called Kits Beach. It’s an easy walk from the Maritime Museum and the False Creek ferry dock. If you want to do a saltwater swim but can’t handle the cold, head to the huge (135m-long/450-ft.) heated (77°F/25°C) Kitsilano Pool . Admission is the same as for Second Beach Pool, above. The summertime amateur theater, Kitsilano Showboat, attracts a local crowd looking for evening fun. Farther west on the other side of Pioneer Park is Jericho Beach (Alma St. off Point Grey Rd.). This is another local after-work and weekend social spot. Locarno Beach, off Discovery Street and NW Marine Drive, and Spanish Banks, NW Marine Drive, wrap around the northern point of the UBC campus and University Hill. (Be forewarned that beachside restrooms and concessions on the promontory end abruptly at Locarno Beach.) Below UBC’s Museum of Anthropology is Point Grey Beach, a restored harbor defense site. The next beach is Wreck Beach —Canada’s largest nude beach. You get down to Wreck Beach by taking the very steep Trail 6 on the UBC campus near Gate 6 down to the water’s edge. Extremely popular with locals, and maintained by The Wreck Beach Preservation Society, Wreck Beach is also the city’s most pristine and least-developed sandy stretch. It’s bordered on three sides by towering trees. At the northern foot of the Lions Gate Bridge, Ambleside Park is a popular North Shore spot. The quarter-mile beach faces the Burrard Inlet. For information on any of Vancouver’s many beaches, call & 604/738-8535 (summer only).

BICYCLING & MOUNTAIN BIKING Cycling in Vancouver is fun, amazingly scenic, and very popular. Cycling maps are available at most bicycle retailers and rental outlets. Some West End hotels offer guests bike storage and rentals. Hourly rentals run around C$4 (US$3) for a one-speed “Cruiser” to C$10 (US$7.50) for a top-of-the-line mountain bike; C$15 to C$40 (US$11–US$30) for a day, helmets and locks included. Bikes

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and child trailers are available by the hour or day at Spokes Bicycle Rentals & Espresso Bar, 1798 W. Georgia St. (& 604/688-5141; www.vancouverbikerentals.com). Alley Cat Rentals, 1779 Robson St., in the alley (& 604/684-5117), is a popular shop that rents city or mountain bikes, child trailers, child seats, locks, helmets, and inline skates (protective gear included). Bayshore Bicycle and Rollerblade Rentals, 745 Denman St. (& 604/688-2453; www. bayshorebikerentals.ca), rents 21-speed mountain bikes, bike carriers, tandems, city bikes, in-line skates, and kids’ bikes. Note: Be advised that helmets are mandatory and will be included in your bike rental. The most popular cycling path in the city runs along the Seawall around the perimeter of Stanley Park. Offering stunning views of the city, the Burrard Inlet, the mountains, and English Bay, this flat, 10km (61⁄4-mile) pathway attracts year-round bicyclists, in-line skaters, and pedestrians. (Note: Runners and cyclists have separate lanes on developed park and beach paths.) Another popular route is the seaside bicycle route, a 15km (91⁄4mile) ride that begins at English Bay and continues around False Creek to the University of British Columbia. Some of this route follows city streets that are well marked with cycle-path signs; the sights include: The Plaza of Nations, Science World, Granville Island, the Pacific Space Centre, the Kitsilano Pool and the Jericho Sailing Centre, and the University of British Columbia, home to the UBC Botanical Garden and Nitobe Japanese Garden (p. 110) and the lush Pacific Spirit Park (see “Parks & Gardens,” earlier in this chapter). Serious mountain bikers also have a wealth of world-class options within a short drive from downtown Vancouver. The trails on Grouse Mountain (p. 112) are considered some of the lower mainland’s best. The very steep Good Samaritan Trail on Mount Seymour connects to the Baden-Powell Trail and the Bridle Path near Mount Seymour Road. Local mountain bikers love the cross-country ski trails on Hollyburn Mountain in Cypress Provincial Park, located just northeast of Vancouver on the road to Whistler on Highway 99. Closer to downtown, both Pacific Spirit Park and Burnaby Mountain offer excellent beginner and intermediate offroad trails.

BOATING With thousands of miles of protected shoreline along British Columbia’s West Coast, boaters enjoy some of the finest cruising

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grounds in the world. These waters abound with inlets, passages, and islands to discover and explore. You can rent 4.5- to 5m-long (15–17 ft.) power-boats for a few hours or up to several weeks at Bonnie Lee Boat Rentals, 1676 Duranleau St., Granville Island (& 866/933-7447 or 604/290-7441; www.bonnielee.com). Rates for a 5m (17-ft.) sport boat that holds four begin at C$50 (US$37) per hour or C$300 (US$225) for an 8-hour package. Jerry’s Boat Rentals, Granville Island (& 604/644-3256), is just steps away and offers similar deals. Delta Charters, 3500 Cessna Dr., Richmond (& 800/661-7762 or 604/273-4211; www.deltacharters.com), offers weekly and monthly rates for skippered boats. Prices begin around C$1,400 (US$1,050) per week for a boat that sleeps four (which isn’t a bad deal when you consider that you won’t need a hotel room).

CANOEING & KAYAKING Both placid, urban False Creek and the incredibly beautiful 30km (19-mile) North Vancouver fjord known as Indian Arm have launching points that can be reached by car or bus. Prices range from C$33 (US$25) per 2-hour minimum rental to C$59 (US$44) per 5-hour day for single kayaks and about C$56 (US$42) for canoe rentals. Customized tours range from C$70 to C$110 (US$53– US$83) per person. Ecomarine Ocean Kayak Centre, 1668 Duranleau St., Granville Island (& 888/425-2925 or 604/689-7575; www. ecomarine.com), has 2-hour, daily, and weekly kayak rentals, as well as courses and organized tours. The company also has an office at the Jericho Sailing Centre, 1300 Discovery St., at Jericho Beach (& 604/222-3565). In North Vancouver, Deep Cove Canoe and Kayak Rentals, 2156 Banbury Rd. (at the foot of Gallant St.), Deep Cove (& 604/929-2268; www.deepcovekayak.com) is an easy starting point for anyone planning an Indian Arm run. It offers hourly and daily rentals of canoes and kayaks as well as lessons and customized tours. Lotus Land Tours, 2005–1251 Cardero St. (& 800/528-3531 or 604/684-4922; www.lotuslandtours.com), runs guided kayak tours on Indian Arm. Tours come complete with transportation to and from Vancouver, a barbecue salmon lunch, and incredible scenery. Operator Peter Loppe uses very wide, stable kayaks, perfect for first-time paddlers. One-day tours cost C$145 (US$109) for adults, C$110 (US$83) for children.

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ECOTOURS Lotus Land Tours, 2005–1251 Cardero St. (& 800/528-3531 or 604/684-4922; www.lotuslandtours.com), runs guided kayak tours on Indian Arm (see “Canoeing & Kayaking,” above). From late November to the end of January, this small local company also offers unique float trips on the Squamish River to see the large concentration of bald eagles up close. Rockwood Adventures (& 888/ 236-6606 or 604/980-7749; www.rockwoodadventures.com) has guided walks of the North Shore rainforest, complete with a trained naturalist and a gourmet lunch. Tours cover Capilano Canyon or Lighthouse Park, and start at C$70 (US$53) for a half-day, including snack and drink, or C$130 (US$98) for a full-day trip to Bowen Island, including transportation, guide, and lunch. Senior and children’s discounts are available.

FISHING Five species of salmon, rainbow and Dolly Varden trout, steelhead, and sturgeon abound in the local waters around Vancouver. To fish, anglers over the age of 16 need a nonresident saltwater or freshwater license. Licenses are available province-wide from more than 500 vendors, including tackle shops, sporting goods stores, resorts, service stations, marinas, charter boat operators, and department stores. For further information about licensing, call & 604/666-0566; sport fishing licenses can also be obtained via the Internet at www.pac.dfo-mpo.gc.ca/recfish. Licenses for freshwater fishing are C$20 (US$15) for 1 day or C$36 (US$27) for 8 days for non BCresidents. Saltwater (tidal waters) fishing licenses cost C$7.50 (US$6) for 1 day, C$20 (US$15) for 3 days, and C$34 (US$26) for 5 days. Fly-fishing in national and provincial parks requires special permits, which you can get at any park site for a nominal fee. Permits are valid at all Canadian parks. The BC Tidal Waters Sport Fishing Guide, BC Sport Fishing Regulations Synopsis for Non-tidal Waters, and BC Fishing Directory and Atlas, available at many tackle shops, are good sources of information. The Vancouver Sun prints a daily fishing report in the B section that details which fish are in season and where they can be found. Hanson’s Fishing Outfitters, 102–580 Hornby St. (& 604/ 684-8988; www.hansons-outfitters.com), and Granville Island Boat Rentals, 1696 Duranleau St. (& 604/682-6287; www.boat rentalsvancouver.com), are outstanding outfitters. Bonnie Lee Fishing Charters Ltd., 1676 Duranleau St., Granville Island

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& 604/290-7447; www.bonnielee.com), is another reputable outfitter and also sells fishing licenses. If you go to Granville Island, be sure to stop by the Granville Island Sport Fishing Museum, 1502 Duranleau (& 604/6831939; www.sportfishingmuseum.ca), open Tuesday through Sunday 10am to 5:30pm. Admission is C$7.50 (US$6) for adults, C$6 (US$4.50) for seniors and students.

GOLF Golf is a year-round Vancouver sport. With five public 18-hole courses and half a dozen pitch-and-putt courses in the city and dozens more nearby, golfers are never far from their love. For substantial discounts and short-notice tee times at more than 30 Vancouver-area courses, try calling A-1 Last Minute Golf Hot Line (& 800/684-6344 or 604/878-1833). The public University Golf Club, 5185 University Blvd. (& 604/224-1818), is a great 6,560-yard, par-71 course with a clubhouse, pro shop, locker rooms, bar and grill, and sports lounge. A number of excellent public golf courses, maintained by the Vancouver Board of Parks and Recreation (& 604/257-8400; www. city.vancouver.bc.ca/parks), can be found throughout the city. Langara Golf Course, 6706 Alberta St., around 49th Avenue and Cambie Street (& 604/713-1816), built in 1926 and recently renovated and redesigned, is one of the most popular golf courses in the province. Depending on the course, weekend greens fees range from C$25 to C$52 (US$18–US$39) for an adult, with discounts for seniors, youths, and weekday tee times. To reserve, call & 604/2801818 up to 5 days in advance. Leading private clubs are situated on the North Shore and in Vancouver. Check with your club at home to see if you have reciprocal visiting memberships with one of the following: Capilano Golf and Country Club, 420 Southborough Dr., West Vancouver (& 604/ 922-9331); Marine Drive Golf Club, W. 57th Avenue and SW Marine Drive (& 604/261-8111); Seymour Golf and Country Club, 3723 Mt. Seymour Pkwy., North Vancouver (& 604/9292611); Point Grey Golf and Country Club, 3350 SW Marine Dr. (& 604/261-3108); and Shaughnessy Golf and Country Club, 4300 SW Marine Dr. (& 604/266-4141). Greens fees range from C$42 to C$72 (US$32–US$54).

HIKING Great trails for hikers of all levels run through Vancouver’s dramatic environs. Good trail maps are available from International Travel

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Maps and Books, 539 Pender St. (& 604/687-3320; www.itmb. com), which also stocks guidebooks and topographical maps. You can pick up a local trail guide at any bookstore. If you’re looking for a challenge without a longtime commitment, hike the aptly named Grouse Grind from the bottom of Grouse Mountain (p. 112) to the top; then buy a one-way ticket down on the Grouse Mountain SkyRide gondola. The one-way fare (down) is C$5 (US$3.75) per person. For a bit more scenery with a bit less effort, take the Grouse Mountain SkyRide up to the Grouse chalet and start your hike at an altitude of 1,100m (3,700 ft.). The trail north to Goat Mountain is well marked and takes approximately 6 hours round-trip, though you may want to build in some extra time to linger on the top of Goat and take in the spectacular 360-degree views of Vancouver, Vancouver Island, and the snow-capped peaks of the Coast Mountains. Lynn Canyon Park, Capilano River Regional Park, Mount Seymour Provincial Park, Pacific Spirit Park, and Cypress Provincial Park (see “The Top Attractions” and “Parks & Gardens,” earlier in this chapter) have good, easy to challenging trails that wind up through stands of Douglas fir and cedar and contain a few serious switchbacks. Pay attention to the trail warnings posted at the parks; some have bear habitats. And always remember to sign in with the park service at the start of your chosen trail. Should you desire some guidance, Eco Trail Escapes (& 604/ 929-5751; www.ecotrailescapes.com) provides transportation to and from the trail heads, water and snacks, and a guide trained in wilderness first aid. The cost is C$70 (US$52) per person. A little farther outside the city, the 6-to-10-hour hike to Black Tusk is one of the finest day hikes in North America. The trail head is in Garibaldi Provincial Park (& 604/898-3678), located 13km (8 miles) north of Squamish, 97km (59 miles) north of Vancouver along Highway 99 on the road to Whistler. The park has five access points; Black Tusk/Garibaldi Lake is the second marked turnoff; it takes about an hour to get there. The trail switchbacks up 1,000m (3,280 ft.) in about 6km (3.75 miles), then levels onto a rolling alpine plateau with fabulous views of Howe Sound and the surrounding mountains. The best times to make this climb are from July to October.

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ICE SKATING Robson Square has free skating on a covered ice rink on Robson Street between Howe and Hornby streets. It’s open from November to early April. Rentals are available in the adjacent concourse. The West End Community Centre, 870 Denman St. (& 604/2578333), also rents skates at its enclosed rink, which is open October through March. The enormous Burnaby 8 Rinks Ice Sports Centre, 6501 Sprott, Burnaby (& 604/291-0626), is the Vancouver Canucks’ official practice facility. It has eight rinks, is open yearround, and offers lessons and rentals. Call ahead to check hours for public skating.

IN-LINE SKATING You’ll find locals rolling along beach paths, streets, park paths, and promenades. If you didn’t bring a pair of blades, try Bayshore Bicycle and Rollerblade Rentals, 745 Denman St. (& 604/688-2453; www.bayshorebikerentals.com). Rentals run C$5 (US$3.75) per hour or C$19 (US$14) for 8 hours. For information on in-line skating lessons and group events, visit www.rollerbladevancouver.com.

JOGGING You’ll find fellow runners traversing the Stanley Park Seawall and the paths around Lost Lagoon and Beaver Lake. Other prime jogging areas in the city are Kitsilano Beach, Jericho Beach, and Spanish Banks (for more information see “Beaches,” earlier in this chapter); all of them offer flat, well-maintained running paths along the ocean. You can also take the seawall path from English Bay Beach south along False Creek. If you feel like doing a little racing, competitions take place throughout the year; ask for information at any runners’ outfitters, such as Forerunners, 3504 W. Fourth Ave. (& 604/732-4535), or Running Room, 679 Denman St. (corner of Georgia; & 604/684-9771). Check www.runningroom.com for information on clinics and running events around Vancouver and British Columbia.

PARAGLIDING Summertime paragliding may be the ultimate flying experience. Most of the areas in British Columbia where it’s offered are outside Vancouver. Open from April 15 to September 15, Whistler Paragliding, in Whistler (& 604/938-8830; www.whistlerparaglding.com), offers an introductory tandem flight at C$140 (US$105) or 3-day course for C$285 (US$214) where you will learn ground handling, complete

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short hops, and fly with an instructor. In North Vancouver, First Flight Paragliding (& 604/988-1111; www.first-flight.ca) offers tandem flights June through September from the peak of Grouse Mountain, at C$150 (US$113) for 1 hour. The actual flight takes approximately 20 minutes.

SAILING Trying to navigate a sailboat in the unfamiliar straits around Vancouver is unwise and unsafe unless you enroll in a local sailing course before attempting it. Knowing the tides, currents, and channels is essential. Multiday instruction packages sometimes include guided Gulf Island cruises. If all you want is to get out for a day of sailing, you can charter a 3-hour yacht cruise with Cooper Boating Centre, 1620 Duranleau St. (& 604/687-4110; www.cooperboating.com), which offers chartered cruises, boat rentals, and sail-instruction packages on 6- to 13m (20–43 ft.) boats. Boat rentals start at C$156 (US$117) for a full-day rental in the off season and go as high as C$500 (US$375) for a full-day rental in the peak season, depending on the size of the boat.

SKIING & SNOWBOARDING Top-notch skiing lies outside the city at the Whistler and Blackcomb Resorts, 110km (68 miles) north of Vancouver. However, if you have only a day or two in Vancouver, you don’t even have to leave the city to get in a few runs. It seldom snows in the city’s downtown and central areas, but Vancouverites can ski before work and after dinner at the three ski resorts in the North Shore mountains. In 2010, these local mountains will play host to the Freestyle and Snowboard events in the Winter Olympics. Grouse Mountain Resort, 6400 Nancy Greene Way, North Vancouver (& 604/984-0661 or snow report 604/986-6262; www. grousemountain.com), is about 3km (13⁄4 miles) from the Lions Gate Bridge, overlooking the Burrard Inlet and Vancouver’s skyline (p. 112). Four chairs, two beginner tows, and two T-bars take you to 24 alpine runs. The resort has night skiing, special events, instruction, and a spectacular view, as well as a 90m (300-ft.) half pipe for snowboarders. Though the area is small, all skill levels are covered, with two beginner trails, three blue trails, and five blackdiamond runs, including Coffin and Inferno, which follow the east slopes down from 1,230 to 750m (4,100–2,500 ft.). Rental packages and a full range of facilities are available. Lift tickets good for

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all-day skiing are C$42 (US$31) for adults, C$30 (US$22) for seniors and youths, and C$18 (US$13) for children 5 through 12; children under 4 go free. Mount Seymour Provincial Park, 1700 Mt. Seymour Rd., North Vancouver (& 604/986-2261 or snow report 604/986-3999; www.mountseymour.com), has the area’s highest base elevation; it’s accessible via four chairs and a tow. Lift tickets are C$33 (US$25) all day for adults, C$23 (US$17) for seniors, C$27 (US$20) for youths 12 to 19, C$17 (US$13) for children 6 to 11. Nighttime skiing from 4 to 10pm costs less. In addition to day and night skiing, the facility offers snowboarding, snowshoeing, and tobogganing along its 22 runs. There are also 26km (16 miles) of cross-country trails. The resort specializes in teaching first-timers. Camps for children and teenagers, and adult clinics, are available throughout the winter. Mount Seymour has one of Western Canada’s largest equipment rental shops, which will keep your measurements on file for return visits. Shuttle service is available during ski season from various locations on the North Shore, including the Lonsdale Quay SeaBus. For more information, call & 604/986-2261. Cypress Bowl, 1610 Mt. Seymour Rd. (& 604/926-5612 or snow report 604/419-7669; www.cypressmountain.com), has the area’s longest vertical drop (525m/1,750 ft.), challenging ski and snowboard runs, and 16km (10 miles) of track-set cross-country ski trails (including 5km/3 miles set aside for night skiing). Full-day lift tickets are C$42 (US$32) for adults, with reduced rates for youths, seniors, and children. Cross-country full-day passes are C$15 (US$11) for adults, with reduced rates for youths, seniors, and children. Snowshoe trail tickets are available for C$6 (US$4.50). Discounts for half-day, nighttime, and multiday tickets are available. Cypress also offers excellent 1-day and 5-day lesson packages for skiing or riding as well as an intro class to cross-country skiing (classic and skate). Cypress Mountain Sports, 510 and 518 Park Royal S., West Vancouver (& 604/878-9229), offers shuttle service to and from the ski area. Round-trip tickets are C$9 (US$6.75). Cypress Mountain Sports stocks a complete selection of downhill, cross-country (including backcountry, skating, racing, and touring), and snowboarding equipment and accessories. The rental and repair department, staffed by avid skiers, offers a broad selection of equipment. Rental and repair prices are quite reasonable. The store also offers guided hikes in summer and snowshoe treks in winter.

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SWIMMING & WATERSPORTS Vancouver’s midsummer saltwater temperature rarely exceeds 65°F (18°C). If you’ve really got a hankering to have a saltwater swim, there are heated outdoor pools at both Kitsilano Beach and Second Beach (see “Beaches,” earlier in this chapter). You can also take to the water at public aquatic centers. The Vancouver Aquatic Centre, 1050 Beach Ave. at the foot of Thurlow Street (& 604/665-3424), has a heated, 50m (164-ft.) Olympic pool, saunas, whirlpools, weight rooms, diving tanks, locker rooms, showers, childcare, and a tot pool. Adult admission is C$4.25 (US$3.20). The new, coed YWCA Fitness Centre, 535 Hornby St. (& 604/895-5777; www.ywcavan.org), in the heart of downtown, has a 6-lane, 25m (82-ft.) ozonated (much milder than chlorinated) pool, steam room, whirlpool, conditioning gym, and aerobic studios. A day pass is C$13 (US$9.75) for adults. UBC’s Aquatic Centre, 6121 University Blvd. (& 604/822-4522; www. aquatics.ubc.ca), located next door to the Student Union Building and the bus loop, has designated hours when facilities are open for public use. Adult admission is C$4 (US$3), C$3 (US$2.25) for youths and students, and C$2.25 (US$1.70) for seniors.

TENNIS The city maintains 180 outdoor hard courts that have a 1-hour limit and accommodate patrons on a first-come, first-served basis from 8am until dusk. (Heavy usage times are evenings and weekends.) With the exception of the Beach Avenue courts, which charge a nominal fee in summer, all city courts are free. Stanley Park has four courts near Lost Lagoon and 17 courts near the Beach Avenue entrance, next to the Fish House Restaurant. During the summer season (May–Sept) six courts are taken over for pay tennis and can be pre-booked by calling & 604-605-8224. Queen Elizabeth Park’s 18 courts service the central Vancouver area, and Kitsilano Beach Park’s 10 courts service the beach area between Vanier Park and the UBC campus. You can play at night at the Langara Campus of Vancouver Community College, on West 49th Avenue between Main and Cambie streets. The UBC Coast Club, on Thunderbird Boulevard (& 604/822-2505), has 10 outdoor and 4 indoor courts. Indoor courts are C$12 (US$9) per hour, plus C$3 (US$2.25) per person; outdoor courts are C$3 (US$2.25) per person.

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Bayshore Bicycle and Rollerblade Rentals, 745 Denman St. (& 604/688-2453; www.bayshorebikerentals.com), rents tennis rackets for C$10 (US$7.50) per day.

WHITE-WATER RAFTING A 21⁄2-hour drive from Vancouver, on the wild Nahatlatch River, Reo Rafting, 845 Spence Way, Anmore (& 800/736-7238 or 604/4617238; www.reorafting.com), offers some of the best guided whitewater trips in the province, at a very reasonable price. One-day packages—including breakfast, lunch, all your gear, and 4 to 5 hours on the river—start at C$125 (US$94) for adults, C$95 (US$71) for youths 10 to 18; Sundays, the cost drops to C$109 (US$82) for adults. Multiday trips and group packages are also available. Only a 11⁄2-hour drive from the city is Chilliwack River Rafting (& 800/410-7283; www.dowco.com/chilliwackrafting), which offers half-day trips on the Chilliwack River and in the even hairier Chilliwack Canyon. The cost is C$89 (US$67) for adults and C$69 (US$52) for children.

WILDLIFE-WATCHING Vancouver is an internationally famous stop for naturalists, ecotourists, pods of orca whales, and thousands of migratory birds; so bring your camera, binoculars, and bird-spotting books. Salmon, bald eagles, herons, beavers, and numerous rare, indigenous marine and waterfowl species live in the metropolitan area. Orcas, or killer whales, are the largest mammals to be seen in the waters around Vancouver. Three orca pods (families), numbering about 80 whales, return to this area every year to feed on the salmon returning to spawn in the Fraser River starting in May and continuing into October. The eldest female leads the group; the head of one pod is thought to have been born in 1911. From April through October, daily excursions offered by Vancouver Whale Watch, 12240 2nd Ave., Richmond (& 604/274-9565; www.vancouver whalewatch.com), focus on the majestic killer whales plus Dall’s porpoises, sea lions, seals, eagles, herons, and other wildlife. The cost is C$95 (US$71) per person. The same rates and schedules apply at Steveston Seabreeze Adventures, 12551 No. 1 Rd., Richmond (& 604/272-7200; www.seabreezeadventures.ca). Both companies offer a shuttle service from downtown Vancouver. Whale-watching is a great adventure for kids and adults alike.

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To hook up with local Vancouver birders, try the Vancouver Natural History Society (& 604/737-3074; www.naturalhistory.bc. ca/VNHS). This all-volunteer organization runs birding field trips most weekends, many free, some at a nominal charge. During the winter, thousands of bald eagles line the banks of the Squamish, Cheakamus, and Mamquam rivers to feed on spawning salmon. The official January 1994 eagle count in Brackendale, a small community near Squamish, recorded 3,700—the largest number ever seen in North America. To get there by car, take the scenic Sea-to-Sky Highway (Hwy. 99) from downtown Vancouver to Squamish and Brackendale; the trip takes about an hour. The route winds along the craggy tree-lined coast of Howe Sound through the town of Britannia Beach and past two beautiful natural monuments: Shannon Falls and the continent’s tallest monolithic rock face, the Stawamus Chief. Alternatively, you can take a Greyhound bus from Vancouver’s Pacific Central Station, 1150 Station St. (& 604/482-8747; www.greyhound.ca); trip time is 11⁄4 hours. Contact Squamish & Howe Sound Visitor Info Centre (& 604/ 892-9244; www.squamishchamber.bc.ca) for more information. The annual summer salmon runs attract more than bald eagles. Tourists also flock to coastal streams and rivers to watch the waters turn red with leaping coho and sockeye. The salmon are plentiful at the Capilano Salmon Hatchery (p. 116). Along the Fraser River delta, more than 250 bird species migrate to or perennially inhabit the George C. Reifel Sanctuary’s wetland reserve. See “Parks & Gardens,” earlier in this chapter for a detailed description. Stanley Park and Pacific Spirit Park are both home to heron rookeries. You can see these large birds nesting just outside the Vancouver Aquarium. Ravens, dozens of species of waterfowl, raccoons, skunks, beavers, and even coyotes are also full-time residents. The Stanley Park Ecological Society (& 604/257-8544) runs regular nature walks in the park. Call or see their website for more information, or drop by the Lost Lagoon Nature House in Stanley Park (p. 99).

WINDSURFING Windsurfing is not allowed at the mouth of False Creek near Granville Island, but you can bring a board to Jericho and English Bay beaches or rent one there. Equipment sales, rentals (including wet suits), and instruction can be found at Windsure Windsurfing School, 1300 Discovery St., at Jericho Beach (& 604/

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224-0615; www.windsure.com). Rentals start at about C$18 (US$14) per hour, wet suit and life jacket included.

6 Spectator Sports Spectator events in Vancouver, especially Canucks games and the Vancouver Indy, tend to sell out early so it’s a good idea to book ahead. You can get information and purchase tickets from Ticketmaster at the Vancouver Ticket Centre, (& 604/280-4444; www. ticketmaster.ca), which has 40 outlets in the Greater Vancouver area.

AUTO RACING In late July, the CART Indy Series mounts its biggest annual event, the Molson Indy, 750 Pacific Blvd. (& 604/684-4639 for information or 604/280-4639 for tickets; www.molsonindy.com). General admission starts at C$19 (US$14), depending on the race day. A 3-day general admission ticket costs C$60 (US$45). The race roars through Vancouver’s streets around BC Place Stadium and the north and south shores of False Creek, attracting more than 350,000 spectators.

FOOTBALL The Canadian Football League’s BC Lions (& 604/580-7627; www.bclions.com) play their home and Grey Cup championship games (in good seasons) in the 60,000-seat BC Place Stadium, 777 Pacific Blvd. S. (at Beatty and Robson sts.). Canadian football differs from its American cousin: It’s a three-down offense game on a field that’s 10 yards longer and wider. Some of the plays you see will have NFL fans leaping out of their seats in surprise. Tickets run C$20 to C$60 (US$15–US$45).

HOCKEY The National Hockey League’s Vancouver Canucks play at General Motors Place (otherwise known as the Garage), 800 Griffith’s Way (& 604/899-4600 or event hotline 604/899-7444; www. canucks.com). Tickets are C$26 to C$95 (US$20–US$71).

HORSE RACING Thoroughbreds run at Hastings Park Racecourse, Exhibition Park, East Hastings and Cassiar streets (& 604/254-1631; www.hastings park.com), from mid-April to October. Post time varies; call ahead or check the website for the latest schedule if you want to place a

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wager. There is a decent restaurant there, so you can make a full evening or afternoon of dining and racing.

RUNNING The Sun Run in April and the Vancouver International Marathon in May attract many runners from around the world (4,411 runners finished the marathon in 2004) and even more spectators. Contact the Vancouver International Marathon Society, 1601 Bayshore Dr., in the Westin Bayshore Hotel (& 604/872-2928; www.van marathon.bc.ca), or the Vancouver Sun Run, 655 Burrard St. (& 604/689-9441; www.sunrun.com), for information.

SOCCER The American Professional Soccer League’s Vancouver Whitecaps (& 604/899-9283) play at Swangard Stadium (& 604/435-7121; www.whitecapssoccer.com) in Burnaby. Admission is normally C$14 to C$22 (US$11–US$17).

6 Vancouver Shopping lessed with a climate that seems semitropical in comparison to B the rest of Canada, Vancouverites never really developed a taste for indoor malls. Instead, most residents shop on the street. Below are a few thoughts on where to start exploring.

1 The Shopping Scene Outside of malls, stores in Vancouver are generally open Monday through Saturday from 9am to 6pm. A few exceptions: Stores on Robson Street stay open later (usually until 9pm), while stores in Kitsilano open later (around 10am). On Sundays most stores are open 11am to 6pm, but a few remain closed all day. Malls such as the Pacific Centre are open from 9am to 7pm Monday through Wednesday, 9am to 9pm Thursday through Saturday, and 10am to 6pm on Sunday. Come Christmas shopping season, stores extend their hours from 9am to 9pm 7 days a week. ROBSON STREET It’s been said that the corner of Robson and Burrard gets more foot traffic than any other corner in Canada. Urban myth? Who knows. Anyway, it’s a busy, colorful parade of humanity, many from Asia (hence the sushi bars and shops with Japanese signs), most with money. Over the past few years rents have risen so much that Robson Street now mostly offers upscale chain shops and international designer boutiques, though here and there a few local stores survive. Look for high-end fashions, with a focus on young designer fashions. SOUTH GRANVILLE The 10-block stretch of Granville Street—from Sixth Avenue up to 16th Avenue—is where Vancouver’s old-money enclave of Shaughnessy comes to shop. Classic and expensive men’s and women’s clothiers and housewares and furniture boutiques predominate. This area is also the heart of the city’s gallery district. WATER STREET Though a little too heavy on the souvenir shops, Water Street and Gastown are by no means just a tacky

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tourist enclave. Look for antique and cutting-edge furniture, galleries of First Nations art, and funky basement retro shops. MAIN STREET Antiques, and lots of ’em. From about 19th up to 27th, Main Street is chockablock with antiques shops. Rather than outbid each other, the stores have evolved so that each covers a particular niche, from Art Deco to country kitchen to fine Second Empire. It’s a fun place to browse, and if your eyes start to glaze over at the thought of yet another divan, the area also has cafes, bookshops, and clothing stores. GRANVILLE ISLAND A rehabilitated industrial site beneath the Granville Street Bridge, the Public Market is one of the best places to pick up salmon and other seafood. It’s also a great place to browse for crafts and gifts. Particularly interesting is Kids Market, a kind of minimall for children, complete with a Lilliputian entranceway; toy, crafts, and book stores; and play areas and services for the not-yet-10 demographic. ASIA WEST If you’ve never been to Hong Kong, or are just itching to get back, this new commercial area on Richmond’s No. 3 Road between Capstan and Alderbridge roads is the place to shop. Stores in four new malls—the Yaohan Centre, President Plaza, Aberdeen Centre, and Parker Place—cater to Vancouver’s newly arrived Asian community by bringing in goods direct from Asia. If the prices seem a bit high, a simple inquiry is often enough to bring them plummeting down as much as 80%. PUNJABI MARKET Just like an imported India, the 4 blocks of Main Street, on either side of 49th Avenue, contain the whole of the subcontinent, shrunk down to a manageable parcel. Look for fragrant spice stalls and sari shops and textile outlets selling luxurious fabrics—at bargain-basement prices.

2 Shopping A to Z ANTIQUES Bakers Dozen Antiques This charming shop specializes in antique toys, model ships and boats, folk art, and unusual 19th- and early-20th-century furniture. 3520 Main St. & 604/879-3348. Mihrab Finds Part museum, part subcontinental yard sale, Mihrab specializes in one-of-a-kind Indian antiques for the house and garden. Think intricately carved teak archways or tiny jewel-like door pulls, all selected by partners Lou Johnson and Kerry Lane on

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frequent trips to the subcontinent.

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2229 Granville St. & 604/879-6105.

www.mihrabantiques.com.

Catering to upscale shoppers, Uno Langmann specializes in European and North American paintings, furniture, silver, and objets d’art from the 18th through early 20th centuries. 2117 Granville St. & 604/736-8825. www.langmann.com. Vancouver Antique Centre Housed in a heritage commercial building, this maze contains 15 separate shops on two levels, specializing in everything from china, glass, and jewelry to military objects, sports, toys, retro, ’50s and ’60s collectibles, home furnishings, and watches. There are even more shops in the neighboring buildings. 422 Richards St. & 604/669-7444. Uno Langmann Limited

BOOKS Blackberry Books Although this small Granville Island store tends toward general interest, they have a healthy selection of books about art, architecture, and cuisine. They’re right across from the public market. 1663 Duranleau St. & 604/685-4113 or 604/685-6188. www. bbooks.ca.

Chapters chain bookstores are pleasant and well planned, with little nooks, comfy benches, and a huge stock of titles. It’s like the Borders of Canada. 788 Robson St. & 604/682-4066. Also at

Chapters

2505 Granville St. (& 604/731-7822). www.chapters.ca.

This well-known local bookstore on Granville Island, in business since 1957, is a good place to find local authors and stocks an excellent inventory of Canadian and international titles. 2239 W. Fourth Ave., Kitsilano. & 604/732-5344. www.duthie

Duthie Books 4th Ave.

books.com.

Located in the heart of Vancouver’s entertainment district, this bookstore has a great selection and staff with a true love for books. Generous open hours make this a great spot for browsing after dinner or before a movie. Open daily 9am to midnight. 850 Granville St. & 877/838-BOOK or 604/687-2213. www.granville

Granville Book Company

books.com.

This store has the Finds best selection of travel books, maps, charts, and globes in town, plus an impressive selection of special-interest British Columbia guides. This is the hiker’s best source for detailed topographic charts of the entire province. 539 W. Pender St. & 604/687-3320. Also at 530 W. Broadway

International Travel Maps and Books

(& 604/879-3621). www.itmb.com.

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Kidsbooks Kids The largest and most interesting selection of children’s literature in the city also has an amazing collection of puppets and has regular readings. 3083 W. Broadway. & 604/738-5335. Also 3040 Edgemont Blvd., North Vancouver (& 604/986-6190). www.kidsbooks.ca. UBC Robson Square Kids The University of British Columbia has a handy bookstore right below Robson Square; come here for the academic, scholarly, and specialized titles you won’t find at other bookstores. 800 Robson St., Plaza Level. & 604/822-6453. Also at UBC main campus. www.rsquare.ubc.ca.

CAMERA Dunne & Rundle is conveniently located downtown and can handle repairs for most major brands and sells parts, accessories, and film. 891 Granville St. & 604/

Dunne & Rundle foto source

681-9254. www.dunneandrundle.com.

Lens & Shutter Located near the food court of the downtown Pacific Centre mall, Lens & Shutter can provide film and camera advice, sells and repairs cameras, and develops photos. 8700 W. Georgia St. (in Pacific Centre). & 604/684-4422. Also 2912 W. Broadway (& 604/ 736-3461). www.lensandshutter.com.

CERAMICS, CHINA, SILVER & CRYSTAL You can find a great array of sophisticated international china and crystal in the downtown stores. On Granville Island, you can observe potters, silversmiths, and glassblowers as they work their magic. Gallery of BC Ceramics This Granville Island gallery loft is owned and operated by the Potters Guild of British Columbia and features a collection of sculptural and functional ceramic works from 100 different BC potters. Closed on Mondays in January and February. Gallery hours change seasonally, so phone ahead to confirm hours of operation. 1359 Cartwright St. & 604/669-5645. www.bc potters.com.

Local designer Martha Sturdy— Finds once best known for her collectible, usable, hand-blown glassware trimmed in gold leaf—is now creating a critically acclaimed line of cast-resin housewares, as well as limited-edition couches and chairs. Expensive, but, if you’ve got the dough, the furniture is well worth it. 3039 Granville St. & 604/737-0037. www.marthasturdy.com. Martha Sturdy Originals

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CHINESE GOODS This store with an entrance on Finds Columbia St. and another within Dr. Sun Yat-sen Park in the Chinese Cultural Centre sells attractive reproductions of Chinese art objects, including the ancient terra-cotta warriors unearthed in a Chinese emperor’s tomb. 561 Columbia St. & 604/683-8707. T&T Supermarket Finds This store has racks and racks of goods you won’t find at home (unless your home is China), but the real entertainment is the seafood bins and the produce section, where strange and ungainly comestibles lurk: fire-dragon fruit, lily root, and enoki mushrooms. 181 Keefer St. & 604/899-8836. Ten Ren Tea & Ginseng Co. Whether you prefer the pungent aroma of Chinese black or the exotic fragrance of chrysanthemum, jasmine, or ginger flower, you must try the numerous varieties of drinking and medicinal teas in this Chinatown shop. It also carries Korean, American, and Siberian ginseng for a lot less than you might pay elsewhere. 550 Main St. & 604/684-1566. Tung Fong Hung Foods Co. Finds If you’ve never been to a Chinese herbalist, this is the one to try: jars, bins, and boxes full of such things as dried sea horse, thinly sliced deer antler, and bird’s nest. It’s fun to explore and potentially good for what ails you. Chinese remedies can have side effects, however, so before ingesting anything unfamiliar, it’s wise to consult the on-site herbalist. 536 Main St. Silk Road Art Trading Co.

& 604/688-0883. CIGARS & TOBACCO Just remember: if they’re Cuban, you’ll have to light up on this side of the border. La Casa del Habano Directly across from Planet Hollywood on Robson Street, Casa del Habano has Vancouver’s largest walk-in humidor. Cigars range in price from a few dollars to over a hundred. 980 Robson St. & 604/609-0511.

The selection here is reputed to be the city’s most extensive, featuring brands such as Cohiba, Monte Cristo, Macanudo, Hoyo De Monterrey, Romeo y Julieta, Partagas, Ashton, and A. Fuente. The shop also carries a complete line of accessories. 1093 Hamilton St. & 604/685-0445. www.vancouvercigar.com.

Vancouver Cigar Company

DEPARTMENT STORES From the establishment of its early trading posts during the 1670s to its modern coast-to-coast

The Bay (Hudson’s Bay Company)

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chain, The Bay has built its reputation on quality goods. You can still buy a Hudson’s Bay woolen “point” blanket (the colorful stripes originally represented how many beaver pelts each blanket was worth in trade), but you’ll also find Tommy Hilfiger, Polo, DKNY, and more. 674 Granville St. & 604/681-6211. www.hbc.com. Hills of Kerrisdale Value This neighborhood department store in central Vancouver is a city landmark. Carrying full lines of quality men’s, women’s, and children’s clothes, as well as furnishings and sporting goods, it’s a destination for locals because the prices are often lower than those in the downtown core. 2125 W. 41st Ave.

& 604/266-9177. DISCOUNT SHOPPING The strip of West Fourth Avenue between Cypress and Yew streets has recently emerged as consignment-clothing central. New shops open regularly. In-Again Clothing Value This shop has a good variety of seasonal consignment clothing, and the selection keeps up with fashion trends. Don’t miss the collection of purses, scarves, and belts. 1962 W. Fourth Ave. & 604/738-2782.

Second Suit for Men & Women Value This resale- and sampleclothing store has the best in men’s and women’s fashions, including Hugo Boss, Armani, Donna Karan, Nautica, Calvin Klein, and Alfred Sung. The inventory changes rapidly. 2036 W. Fourth Ave.

& 604/732-0338. FASHIONS FOR CHILDREN Isola Bella Kids This store imports an exclusive collection of

rather expensive, high-fashion newborn and children’s clothing from designers like Babar, Babymini, Milou, Petit Bateau, and Paul Smith. 5692 Yew St. & 604/266-8808. Please Mum Kids This Kitsilano store sells attractive Canadianmade toddler’s and children’s cotton clothing. 2951 W. Broadway.

& 604/732-4574. www.pleasemum.com. FOR MEN & WOMEN

Vancouver has the Pacific Northwest’s best collection of clothes from Paris, London, Milan, and Rome, in addition to a great assortment of locally made, cutting-edge fashions. It seems that almost every week a new designer boutique opens in Yaletown, Kitsilano, or Kerrisdale. International designer outlets include Chanel

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Boutique, 900 W. Hastings St. (& 604/682-0522); Salvatore Ferragamo, 918 Robson St. (& 604/669-4495); Gianni Versace Boutique, 757 W. Hastings St. (& 604/683-1131); Polo/Ralph Lauren, the Landing, 375 Water St. (& 604/682-7656); and Plaza Escada, Sinclair Centre, 757 W. Hastings St. (& 604/688-8558). Dorothy Grant Finds Designed to look like a Pacific Northwest longhouse, this shop is where First Nations designer Dorothy Grant exhibits her unique designs as well as her husband’s (acclaimed artist Robert Davidson) collection of exquisitely detailed Haida motifs, which she appliqués on coats, leather vests, jackets, caps, and accessories. The clothes are gorgeous and collectible. She also carries contemporary Haida art and jewelry. Check the website for some samples of the collection. 1656 W. 75th St. (corner of Granville St., near Vancouver’s International Airport). & 604/681-0201. www.dorothygrant.com.

Big-name designs can be found anywhere, but this little shop is one of the few places to show early collections—clothing and jewelry—of local designers. 311 W. Cordova. & 604/683-7326. Leone Shop where the stars shop. Versace, Donna Karan, Byblos, Armani, and fabulous Italian and French accessories are sold in this very elegant building; valet parking provided and private after-hours shopping by appointment for VIPs. Sinclair Centre, 757 W. Hastings St. Dream 311

& 604/683-1133. www.leone.ca. Roots Canada Proudly Canadian, this chain features sturdy casual clothing, where you’ll find leather jackets, leather bags, footwear, outerwear, and athletic wear for the whole family. 1001 Robson (corner of Burrard). & 604/683-4305. www.roots.ca.

Swimco Located near Kitsilano Beach, this store caters to swimmers and sunbathers, where you’ll find a large variety of bikinis and bathing suits in the latest prints and colors for men, women, and children. 2166 W. Fourth Ave. & 604/732-7946. www.swimco.com. Venus & Mars Finds Add some drama to your life. This Gastown boutique features Vancouver designer Sanné Lambert’s work, specializing in one-of-a-kind handmade gowns and velvet robes. Some plus sizes also available. 315 Cambie St. & 604/687-1908. www.venusand mars.nu.

Rich colors and intricate patFinds terns highlight this Vancouver designer’s imaginative hand-woven separates, pleated silks, sweaters, vests, and soft knits. Nellis has also introduced a new line of hand-painted silks and sumptuous, sheer Zonda Nellis Design Ltd.

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hand-painted velvet eveningwear.

2203 Granville St.

& 604/736-5668.

www.zondanellis.com.

V I N TA G E C L O T H I N G Deluxe Junk Co. The name fits—there’s tons of junk here. Amid

the polyester jackets and worn-out dress shirts, however, are some truly great finds. Some real bargains have been known to pop up. 310 W. Cordova St. & 604/685-4871. www.deluxejunk.com.

Legends Retro-Fashion Specializing in unique retro clothing, Legends is well known among vintage purists for its cache of oneof-a-kind pieces. Most of the clothes, such as evening dresses, shoes, kid gloves, and other accessories, are in immaculate condition. 4366 Main St. & 604/875-0621.

This is a consignment shop with an interesting collection of vintage women’s clothing. Closed Monday and Tuesday. 321 Cambie St., Gastown. & 604/687-1719. True Value Vintage Clothing This underground shop has a collection of funky fashions from the 1930s through the 1990s, including tons of fake furs, leather jackets, denim, soccer jerseys, vintage bathing suits, formal wear, smoking jackets, sweaters, and accessories. 710 Robson St. & 604/685-5403. Tapestry Vintage Clothing

FIRST NATIONS ART & CRAFTS You’ll find First Nations art all over the city. You don’t have to purchase a pricey antique to acquire original Coast Salish or Haida work. As the experts at the Museum of Anthropology explain, if an item is crafted by any of the indigenous Pacific Northwest artisans, it’s a real First Nations piece of art. The culture is ancient yet still very much alive. Pick up a copy of Publication No. 10: A Guide to Buying Contemporary Northwest Coast Art by Karen Duffel (available at the Museum of Anthropology), which details how to identify and care for these beautifully carved, worked, and woven pieces. Bold, traditional, and innovative geometric designs; intricate carvings; strong primary colors; and rich wood tones are just a few of the elements you’ll find in First Nations crafts. Even if you’re not in the market, go gallery-hopping to see works by Haida artists Bill Reid (the province’s best-known Native artist) and Richard Davidson, and by Kwakwaka’wakw artist and photographer David Neel. Coastal Peoples Fine Arts Gallery This Yaletown boutique offers an extensive collection of fine First Nations jewelry. The motifs—bear, salmon, whale, raven, and others—are drawn from

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local myths and translated into 14-karat or 18-karat gold and sterling silver creations. Inuit sculptures and items made of glass or wood are also worth a look. Custom orders can be filled quickly and shipped worldwide. 1024 Mainland St. & 604/685-9298. www.coastal peoples.com.

In a re-creation of a trading post interior, this shop, established in 1946 and claiming to be North America’s largest Northwest coast Native art gallery, sells moccasins, ceremonial masks, Cowichan sweaters, wood sculptures, totem poles (priced up to C$35,000/US$26,250), silk-screen prints, soapstone sculptures, and gold, silver, and argillite jewelry. 165 Water St. & 604/ Hill’s Native Art

685-4249. www.hillsnativeart.com.

Images for a Canadian Heritage This store and the Finds Inuit Gallery of Vancouver (see below) are government-licensed First Nations art galleries, featuring traditional and contemporary works such as Native designs on glass totems and copper plates. With a museum-worthy collection, this shop deserves a visit whether you’re buying or not. 164 Water St. (at Cambie St.). & 604/6857046. www.imagesforcanada.com.

This store is home to one of Canada’s foremost collections of Inuit and First Nations art. Prices are for serious buyers, but it’s worth a visit. 206 Cambie St. & 604/

Inuit Gallery of Vancouver

688-7323. www.inuit.com.

Hand-tanned mooseFinds hide crafts, wood carvings, Cowichan sweaters, porcupine-quill jewelry, and bone, silver, gold, and turquoise accessories are just a few of the selections at this Coast Salish crafts shop. 270 Whonoak St., North

Khot-La-Cha Salish Handicrafts

Vancouver. & 604/987-3339. Turn south on Capilano Rd. (off Marine Dr.) and turn 1st left (Whonoak is parallel to Capilano Rd.). www.khot-la-cha.com.

Lattimer Gallery Finds This beautiful gallery showcases museum-quality Pacific Northwest First Nations Art, including ceremonial masks, totem poles, limited-edition silkscreen prints, argillite sculptures, and expensive gold and silver jewelry. 1590 Second Ave. & 604/732-4556. www.lattimergallery.com.

For 30 years, this gallery has been well regarded for its Inuit and First Nations art collections. 481 Howe St.

Marion Scott Gallery

& 604/685-1934. www.marionscottgallery.com. Museum of Anthropology Works by contemporary First Nations artisans as well as books about the culture and publications

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on identifying and caring for Pacific Northwest crafts.

University of British Columbia, 6393 NW Marine Dr. & 604/822-5087. www.moa.ubc.ca.

FOOD You’ll find salmon everywhere in Vancouver. Many shops package whole, fresh salmon with ice packs for visitors to take home. Shops also carry delectable smoked salmon in travel-safe, vacuum-packed containers. Some offer decorative cedar gift boxes; most offer overnight air transport. Try other salmon treats such as salmon jerky and Indian candy (chunks of marinated smoked salmon), which are available at public markets such as Granville Island Public Market and Lonsdale Quay Market. And even though salmon is the most popular item to buy in Vancouver, coffee flows like water—as does Belgian chocolate. Chocolate Arts Finds The works at this West Fourth Avenue chocolatier are made with exquisite craftsmanship. Seasonal treats include pumpkin truffles around Halloween or eggnog truffles for Christmas. They even make chocolate toolboxes filled with tiny chocolate tools. Look for the all-chocolate diorama in the window—it changes every month or so. Native masks of thick dark chocolate make great gifts. 2037 W. Fourth Ave. & 604/739-0475. The Lobsterman Live lobsters, Dungeness crabs, oysters, mussels, clams, geoducks, and scallops are just a few of the varieties of seafood swimming in the saltwater tanks at this Granville Island fish store. The staff steams the food fresh on the spot, free. Salmon and other seafood can also be packed for air travel. 1807 Mast Tower Rd.

& 604/687-4531. www.lobsterman.com. This Vancouver institution has been the city’s main tea and coffee purveyor for more than a century. You’ll find everything from Jamaican Blue Mountain and Kona coffees to Lapsang Souchong and Kemun teas. The knowledgeable staff will help you decide which flavors and blends fit your taste. There’s also a fine selection of bone china and crystal servingware as well as coffeemakers and teapots. 970 Robson St. & 604/669-0783. www.

Murchie’s Tea & Coffee

murchies.com.

Salmon Village If you want some salmon to take home, Salmon Village has a good selection to choose from. Smoked Salmon or jerky are vacuum-sealed for travel, and fresh salmon can be packed in an icebox or (for a price) shipped to you anywhere on the planet. 779 Thurlow St. & 604/685-3378. www.salmonvillage.com.

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South China Seas Trading Company The South Seas have always been a source of intrigue. This shop re-creates a bit of that wonder, with a remarkable collection of rare spices and hard-to-find sauces. Look for fresh Kaffir lime leaves, Thai basil, young ginger, sweet Thai chile sauce, and occasional exotic produce like mangosteens and rambutans. Pick up recipes and ideas from the knowledgeable staff. Granville Island Public Market. & 604/681-5402.

GALLERIES On the first Thursday of every month, many galleries host free openings from 5 to 8pm. Check the Georgia Straight or Vancouver Magazine for listings or www.art-bc.com for more details on Vancouver’s art scene. Buschlen Mowatt This is the city’s leading “establishment” gallery. Look for paintings, sculptures, and prints from well-known Canadian and international artists. 111–1445 W. Georgia St. & 604/6821234. www.buschlenmowatt.com.

Diane Farris Gallery Contemporary painting and sculpture, from up-and-coming artists and those who already have arrived. 1590 W. Seventh Ave. & 604/737-2629. www.dianefarrisgallery.com. Value This cutting-edge gallery—in the otherwise slightly staid confines of south Granville’s gallery row—is one of the best spots to look for that rising superstar without the rising prices. 2339 Granville St. & 604/730-5000. www.monteclarkgallery.com.

Monte Clark Gallery

GIFTS & SOUVENIRS Buddha Supply Centre Finds Want money to burn? At Chinese funerals people burn joss—paper replicas of earthly belongings—to help make the afterlife for the deceased more comfortable. This shop has more than 500 combustible products to choose from, including $1-million notes (drawn on the bank of hell), luxury penthouse condos, and that all-important cellphone. 4158 Main St.

& 604/873-8169. Beautifully displayed, the large collection of soaps, bath oils, shampoos, and other body products here come in a variety of scents, such as the fresh ginger-citrus twist or the relaxing lavender sea. Locally produced and made with minimal packaging, the allnatural, environmentally friendly products come in convenient sizes and prices. 1172 Robson St. & 604/682-0041. www.escentsaromatherapy.com. The Ocean Floor If you want to bring home a few gifts from the sea, then select from this Granville Island shop’s collection of Escents

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seashells, ship models, lamps, chimes, coral, shell jewelry, stained glass, and marine brass. 1522 Duranleau St., Granville Island. & 604/6815014.

JEWELRY Costen Catbalue Finds One-of-a-kind pieces in platinum and gold are made on the premises here by a team of four goldsmiths and artists Mary Ann Buis and Andrew Costen. The two artists’ styles complement each other; Buis favors contemporary and clean lines, and Costen’s designs tend toward a more ornate Renaissance style. 1832 W. First Ave. & 604/734-3259. www.costencatbalue.com. Forge & Form Master Granville Island metal designers Dietje Hagedoorn and Jürgen Schönheit specialize in customized gold and silver jewelry. Renowned for their gold and silver bow ties, they also create unique pieces like “tension set” rings, which hold a stone in place without a setting. Their studio is located just past the False Creek Community Centre. 1334 Cartwright St. & 604/684-6298. Karl Stittgen and Goldsmiths Finds Stittgen’s gold pins, pendants, rings, and other accessories demonstrate his eye for clean, crisp design and fine craftsmanship. Each work is a miniature architectural wonder. 2203 Granville St. & 604/737-0029. The Raven and the Bear If you’ve never seen West Coast Native jewelry, it’s worth making a trip here. Deeply inscribed with stylized creatures from Northwest mythology, these rings, bangles, and earrings are unforgettable. (See also “First Nations Art & Crafts,” above.) 1528 Duranleau St. & 604/669-3990.

MALLS & SHOPPING CENTERS This 3-block complex contains 200 shops and services, including Godiva, Benetton, Crabtree & Evelyn, and Eddie Bauer. 700 W. Georgia St. (at Howe). & 604/688-7236. www.pacific

Pacific Centre Mall

centre.ca.

Park Royal consists of two malls that face each other on Marine Drive, just west of the Lions Gate Bridge. Gap, Coast Mountain Sports, Cypress Mountain Sports, Future Shop, Marks & Spencer, Disney, Eaton’s, The Bay, Eddie Bauer, and a public market are just a few of the 250 stores in the center. Cinemas, bowling lanes, a golf driving range, community and special events, and a food court are next door. 2002 Park Royal St. Park Royal Shopping Centre

(at foot of Lion’s Gate Bridge), West Vancouver. parkroyal.com.

& 604/925-9576. www.shop

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The Sinclair Centre incorporates four Vancouver landmarks: the Post Office (1910), Winch Building (1911), Customs Examining Warehouse (1913), and Federal Building (1937). Now restored, they house elite shops like Armani and Leone, as well as smaller boutiques, art galleries, and a food court.

Sinclair Centre

757 W. Hastings St. & 604/659-1009. www.sinclaircentre.com.

Vancouver Centre Here you’ll find The Bay, restaurants, a food fair, a pair of Famous Players cinemas showing first-run movies, and more than 115 specialty stores (including high-fashion hair salon Suki’s and the electronics and pharmacy outlet London Drugs). The complex is connected underground to the adjoining Pacific Centre Mall (see above). 650 W. Georgia St. (at Granville). & 604/684-7537.

MARKETS Value Across Asia, prime shopping time comes only after the sun has gone down and the temperature has dropped to something bearable. Friday and Saturday nights May through September, merchants in Chinatown bring the tradition to Canada by closing 2 separate blocks to traffic and covering them with booths, tables, and food stalls offering all manner of things, useful and otherwise. Come down, grab a juicy satay skewer, sip the juice from a freshly cracked coconut, and see what’s up. 200 Keefer St.

Chinatown Night Market

and 200 E. Pender St. Phone the Vancouver Tourism Info Centre at 2000 for dates, times.

& 604/683-

Granville Island Public Market This 4,645-sq.-m (50,000-sq.-ft.) public market features produce, meats, fish, wines, cheeses, arts and crafts, and lots of fast-food counters offering a little of everything. The market is open daily 9am to 6pm. From midJune to September, the Farmers’ Truck Market operates here Thursday from 9am to 6pm. 1669 Johnston St. & 604/666-6477. www. granvilleisland.com. Kids Located at the SeaBus terminal, this public market is filled with produce, meats, fish, specialty fashions, gift shops, food counters, coffee bars, a hotel, and Kids’ Alley (a section dedicated to children’s shops and a play area). The upper floor houses a variety of fashion stores, bookstores, and gift shops.

Lonsdale Quay Market

123 Carrie Cates Court, North Vancouver. & 604/985-6261. www.lonsdalequay. com.

A smaller version of Granville Island, it is located 25 minutes away by SkyTrain from downtown Vancouver. The market has a variety of gift shops,

New Westminster Quay Public Market

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specialty stores, a food court, a delicatessen, and produce stands. Once finished browsing the market, make sure to have a gander at the neighboring Fraser River. A walkway extends along the river and allows great views of the waterfront, the busy boat traffic, and the occasional seal or sea lion. 810 Quayside, New Westminster. & 604/5203881. Value Near the train/bus terminal, Vancouver’s largest flea market boasts more than 350 stalls. A lot of cheap T-shirts, linens, used tools, and such, but it’s still possible to discover some real finds. Go early or the savvy shoppers will have already cleaned out the gems. Open weekends and holidays 9am to 5pm. 703 Terminal Ave. & 604/685-0666. Admission C60¢ (US45¢), free for chil-

Vancouver Flea Market

dren under 12.

MUSIC The Magic Flute Located in the heart of Kitsilano’s Fourth Avenue shopping area, The Magic Flute carries a large selection of classical music, including recordings of local choirs and orchestras. The collection also includes jazz, world music, and soundtracks. Listening stations allow you to “browse” before you buy. 2203 W. Fourth Ave. & 604/736-2727. www.magicflute.com.

OnDeck This is a small shop with an impressive collection of vintage vinyl (plus T-shirts). 416 W. Georgia St. & 604/662-7723. www.ondeck records.com.

Virgin Megastore With over 150,000 titles housed in a threestory, 3,902-sq.-m (42,000-sq.-ft.) space, this is Canada’s largest music and entertainment store. 788 Burrard St. at Robson St. & 604/6692289. www.virginmega.com.

A few blocks east of The Magic Flute, Zulu Finds Records specializes in alternative music, local and import, new and used. You will also find a good selection of vinyl and magazines. The staff is happy to make recommendations and bring you up to speed on what’s hot in the local music scene. 1972 W. Fourth Ave. & 604/738-

Zulu Records

3232. www.zulurecords.com.

SHOES David Gordon Vancouver’s oldest Western boot, hat, and accessories store is far from stodgy. Boots include an extensive selection of Tony Lama, Boulet, Durango, HH Brown, and Dan Post. You’ll also find Vans, Doc Martens, and a lineup of other funky footwear that attracts skateboarders and club kids. 822 Granville St. & 604/ 685-3784.

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John Fluevog Boots & Shoes Ltd. This native Vancouverite has a growing international cult following of designers and models clamoring for his under-C$200 (US$150) urban and funky creations. You’ll find outrageous platforms and clogs, Angelic Sole work boots, and a few bizarre experiments for the daring footwear fetishist. 837 Granville St. & 604/688-2828. www.fluevog.com.

SPECIALTY Lush has the look of an old-fashioned deli with big wheels of cheese, slabs of sweets, and vats of dips and sauces, but all those displays are really soaps (custom-cut from a block), shampoos, skin treatments, massage oils, and bath bombs made from all natural ingredients. 1025 Robson St. & 604/687-5874. www.lushcanada.com. The Market Kitchen Store This store has everything you’d like to have (or could even imagine) on your kitchen counters or in your kitchen drawers—gourmet kitchen accessories, baking utensils, gadgets, and the like. 2–1666 Johnston (Net Loft, Granville Island). & 604/ Lush

681-7399.

Three Dog Bakery Beagle Bagels, Scottie Biscotti, or Gracie’s Rollovers. Canines will have a hard time deciding on a favorite treat from this gone-to-the-dogs bakery. The store also has leashes, collars, greeting cards, and other dog paraphernalia. 2186 W. Fourth Ave.

& 604/737-3647. www.threedog.com. SPORTING GOODS A 2-block area near the Mountain Equipment Co-op (see below) has become Outdoor Central, with at least a half-dozen stores such as Altus Mountain Gear (137 W. Broadway; & 604/876-25255); Great Outdoors Equipment (222 W. Broadway; & 604/8728872); and AJ Brooks (147 W. Broadway; & 604/874-1117). Just a block north on 8th Avenue, you’ll find Taiga (380 W. Eighth Ave.; & 604/875-8388) for inexpensive fleece and other quality outdoor gear. In the past few years, the corner of Fourth Avenue and Burrard Street has become the spot for high-quality snow/skate/surfboard gear as well as the spot to see top-level boarders and their groupies hanging out. Shops here include Pacific Boarder (1793 W. Fourth Ave.; & 604/734-7245), Thriller (1710 W. Fourth Ave.; & 604/ 736-5651), and the particularly noteworthy West Beach (1766 W. Fourth Ave.; & 604/731-6449), which sometimes hosts pro-skate demos on the half-pipe at the back of the store.

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“Go play outside” is Comor’s motto, and they certainly have the goods to get you out there. Pick up some skateboard garb, swimwear, or hiking shoes, in-line skates, skis, boards, and snow toys. 1090 W. Georgia St. & 604/899-2111. www.comorsports.com. Mountain Equipment Co-op A true West Coast institution and an outdoors lover’s dream come true, this block-long store houses the best selection of top-quality outdoor gear: rain gear, clothing, hiking shoes, climbing gear, backpacks, sleeping bags, tents, and more. Memorize the MEC label; you’re sure to see it later—at the beach, the bar, or the concert hall. 130 W. Broadway (between Manitoba Comor Sports

and Columbia). & 604/872-7858. www.mec.ca.

TOYS Kids The Games People carries a huge selection of board games, strategy games, role-playing games, puzzles, models, toys, hobby materials, and other amusements. It’s difficult to walk past this store—whether you’re an adult or a kid. 157 Water

The Games People

St. & 604/685-5825. Kids Probably the only mall in North America dedicated to kids, the Kids Market on Granville Island features a Lilliputian entranceway; toy, craft, and book stores; play areas; and services for the younger set, including a “fun hairdresser.” 1496

Kids Market

Cartwright St. (on Granville Island). & 604/689-8447. www.kidsmarket.ca. Kids This little Gastown shop has every type of kite. Prices range from C$10 to C$20 (US$7.50–US$15) for nylon or Mylar dragon kites to around C$200 (US$150) for more elaborate ghost clippers and nylon hang-glider kites. The Courtyard, 131 Water

Kites on Clouds

St. & 604/669-5677.

WINE British Columbia’s wines are worth buying by the case, especially rich, honey-thick ice wines, such as Jackson-Triggs gold-medal-winning 1994 Johannesburg Riesling Ice wine, and bold reds, such as the Quail’s Gate 1994 Limited Release Pinot Noir. Five years of restructuring, reblending, and careful tending by French and German master vintners have won the province’s vineyards world recognition. When buying BC wine, look for the VQA (Vintner Quality Alliance) seal on the label; it’s a guarantee that all grapes used are grown in British Columbia and meet European standards for growing and processing.

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Summerhill, Cedar Creek, Mission Hill, and Okanagan Vineyards are just a few of the more than 50 local estates producing hearty cabernet sauvignons, honey-rich ice wines, and oaky merlots. These wines can be found at any government-owned LCB liquor store, such as the one at 1716 Robson St. (& 604/660-4576) and at some privately owned wine stores. Marquis Wine Cellars The owner and staff of this West End wine shop are dedicated to educating their patrons about wines. They conduct evening wine tastings, featuring selections from their special purchases. They also publish monthly newsletters. In addition to carrying a full range of British Columbian wines, the shop also has a large international selection. 1034 Davie St. & 604/684-0445. www.marquis-wines.com.

The Okanagan Estate Wine Cellar This department store annex, located in the Vancouver Centre mall Market Square, offers a great selection of British Columbian wines by the bottle and the case. The Bay, 674 Granville St. & 604/681-6211.

7 Vancouver After Dark options in Vancouver run the gamut from cuttingEedgentertainment theater companies to a well-respected opera and symphony. Watch out for folk and jazz festivals that draw people from up and down the coast. And then there are the bars, pubs, clubs, and cafes—lots of them—for every taste, budget, and fetish; you just have to get out there and see. Vancouver’s weekly tabloid the Georgia Straight (www.georgia straight.com) and the Queue section of Thursday’s Vancouver Sun offer the best overviews of the city’s nightlife. Vancouver Magazine, (www.vanmag.com), also covers what’s really hot in the city as does Xtra! West, the free gay biweekly, available throughout the West End. The Vancouver Cultural Alliance Arts Hot Line, 100–938 Howe St. (& 604/684-2787 or 604/681-3535; www.allianceforarts. com), is a great information source for all performing arts, literary events, and art films. The office is open Monday through Friday from 9am to 5pm. Ticketmaster (Vancouver Ticket Centre), 1304 Hornby St. (& 604/280-3311; www.ticketmaster.ca), has 40 outlets in the Vancouver area. Half-price tickets for same-day shows and events are available at the Tickets Tonight (www.ticketstonight.ca) kiosk in the Vancouver Tourist Info Centre, 200 Burrard St. (& 604/683-2000). The Info Centre is open from May to Labour Day daily from 8am to 6pm; the rest of the year, it’s open Monday through Saturday from 8:30am to 5pm.

1 The Performing Arts Three major theaters in Vancouver regularly host touring performances. The Orpheum Theatre, 801 Granville St. (& 604/665-3050; www.city.vancouver.bc.ca/theatres/orpheum/orpheum.html), is an elegant 1927 theater that originally hosted the Chicago-based Orpheum vaudeville circuit. The theater also hosts pop, rock, and

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variety shows. The Queen Elizabeth Complex, 600 Hamilton St., between Georgia and Dunsmuir streets (& 604/665-3050; www. city.vancouver.bc.ca), comprises the Queen Elizabeth Theatre and the Vancouver Playhouse. It hosts major musical and theater productions—both national and touring. It’s also home to the Vancouver Opera and Ballet British Columbia. The 670-seat Vancouver Playhouse presents chamber-music performances and recitals. Located in a converted turn-of-the-20th-century church, the Vancouver East Cultural Centre (the “Cultch” to locals), 1895 Venables St. (& 604/ 251-1363; www.vecc.bc.ca), coordinates an impressive program that includes avant-garde theater productions, performances by international musical groups, festivals and cultural events, children’s programs, and art exhibitions. On the campus of UBC, the Chan Centre for the Performing Arts, 6265 Crescent Rd. (& 604/822-2697; www.chancentre.com), showcases the work of the UBC music and acting students and also hosts a winter concert series. Designed by local architectural luminary, Bing Thom, the Chan Centre’s crystal-clear acoustics are the best in town.

THEATER Theater isn’t just an indoor art here. There’s an annual summertime Shakespeare series, Bard on the Beach, in Vanier Park (& 604/ 737-0625). You can also bring a picnic dinner to Stanley Park and watch Theatre Under the Stars (see below), which features popular musicals and light comedies. Arts Club Theatre Company The 425-seat Granville Island Mainstage presents major dramas, comedies, and musicals, with postperformance entertainment in the Backstage Lounge. The Arts Club Revue Stage is an intimate, cabaret-style showcase for small productions, improvisation nights, and musical revues. The smaller Art Deco Stanley Theatre has recently undergone a glorious renovation and now plays host to longer running plays and musicals. The box office is open 9am to 7pm. Granville Island Stage, 1585 Johnston St., and The Stanley Theatre, 2750 Granville St. & 604/687-1644. www.artsclub.com. Tickets C$13– C$45 (US$9.75–US$34). Senior, student, and group discounts available.

The Centre in Vancouver for Performing Arts This theatre was hailed as Vancouver’s newest prime entertainment venue when it opened in 1996, but then its owner went bankrupt and the theater sat empty until the spring of 2002. The new owners have given the venue new life and are once again bringing big productions to

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Finds Art on the Edge For more original performance fare, don’t miss The Fringe— Vancouver’s Theatre Festival (& 604/257-0350; www.vancouver fringe.com). Centered on Granville Island, the Fringe Festival features more than 500 innovative and original shows each September, all costing under C$12 (US$9).

town. Check the calendar or contact Ticketmaster for an updated schedule. 777 Homer St. & 604/602-0616. www.centreinvancouver.com. Tickets C$25–C$70 (US$19–US$53). Tickets available through Ticketmaster only; call & 604/280-3311.

Housed in Vancouver’s Firehouse No. 1, the Centre is home to the cutting-edge Firehall Theatre Company. Expect original and experimental plays. Dance events, arts festivals, and concerts are also staged here. The box office is open Monday through Friday 9:30am to 5pm and for 1 hour before the show begins. 280 E. Cordova St. & 604/689-0926. www.firehallartscentre.ca. Tickets

Firehall Arts Centre

C$8–C$18 (US$6–US$14). Senior and student discounts available. Value Forget that “student production” thing you’ve got in your head. Students at UBC are actors in training, and their productions are extremely high-caliber. Their presentations range from classic dramatic works to Broadway musicals to new plays by Canadian playwrights. The box office is open Monday through Friday 10:30am to 3pm. All shows start at 7:30pm. There are no performances during the summer. Gate 4, University of British

Frederic Wood Theatre

Columbia. & 604/822-2678. www.theatre.ubc.ca. Tickets C$16 (US$12) adults, C$10 (US$7.50) students and seniors.

From mid-July to mid-August, oldtime favorite musicals like The King and I, West Side Story, and Grease are performed outdoors by a mixed cast of amateur and professional actors. Bring a blanket (it gets cold once the sun sets) and a picnic dinner for a relaxing evening of summer entertainment. The box office is open Monday through Saturday 10am to 5pm and 7 to 8pm. Malkin Bowl, Stanley Park. & 604/257-0366 or 604/687-0174. www.

Theatre Under the Stars

tuts.bc.ca. Tickets C$34 (US$26) adults, C$29 (US$22) seniors and youth, C$24 (US$18) children 6–10, C$98 (US$74) family (2 adults and 2 children).

Vancouver Playhouse Now in its 3rd decade, the company at

the Vancouver Playhouse presents a program of six plays each season, usually a mix of the internationally known, nationally recognized,

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and locally promising. The box office opens 30 minutes before show time. You can also buy tickets through Ticketmaster (& 604/ 280-4444). 600 Hamilton, between Georgia and Hamilton sts. in the Queen Elizabeth complex. & 604/665-3050. www.city.vancouver.bc.ca/theatres. Tickets usually C$8–C$16 (US$6–US$12). Senior and student discounts available.

OPERA Vancouver Opera The Vancouver Opera Company alternates between obscure or new (and Canadian!) works and older, more popular perennials, often sung by international stars. The formula seems to work, as the company is nearly 40 years old and still packing ’em in. The season runs October through May, with most performances in the Queen Elizabeth Theatre. The box office is open Monday through Friday 9am to 4pm. 500–845 Cambie St. & 604/ 683-0222. www.vanopera.bc.ca. Tickets usually C$36–C$96 (US$27–US$72).

CLASSICAL MUSIC Fans of symphonic masterpieces, chamber music, baroque fugues, and popular show tunes will find world-class concert performances in Vancouver. University of British Columbia School of Music September through November and during January and March, UBC presents eight faculty and guest-artist concerts. They feature piano, piano and violin, opera, or quartets, plus occasional performances by acts like the Count Basie Orchestra. If the concert is in the Chan Centre, go. There are few halls in the world with such beautiful acoustics. Recital Hall, Gate 4, 6361 Memorial Rd. & 604/822-5574. www.music.ubc.ca. Tickets purchased at the door C$4–C$24 (US$3–US$18) adults, C$4–C$14 (US$3–US$11) seniors and students. Many concerts are free. The Wed noon hour series costs C$4 (US$3).

Vancouver’s international, awardwinning amateur choir, a 150-voice ensemble, presents five major concerts a year at the Orpheum Theatre. Specializing in symphonic choral music, the Choir’s singalong performance of Handel’s Messiah during the Christmas season is a favorite. 805–235 Keith Rd., West

Vancouver Bach Choir

Vancouver. & 604/921-8012. www.vancouverbachchoir.com. Tickets C$20–C$35 (US$15–US$26) depending on the performance. Tickets available through Ticketmaster at & 604/280-4444.

Vancouver Cantata Singers This semiprofessional, 40-person choir specializes in early music. The company performs works by Bach, Brahms, Monteverdi, Stravinsky, and Handel, as well as Eastern European choral music. The season normally includes three

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programs: in October, December, and March at various locations. 5115 Keith Rd., West Vancouver. & 604/921-8588. www.cantata.org. Tickets C$20 (US$15) adults, C$16 (US$12) seniors and students. Tickets at Ticketmaster (& 604/280-4444) or at the door.

Vancouver Chamber Choir Western Canada’s only professional choral ensemble presents an annual concert series at the Orpheum Theatre, the Chan Centre, and Ryerson United Church. Under conductor John Washburn, the choir has gained an international reputation. 1254 W. Seventh Ave. & 604/738-6822. www.vancouverchamberchoir.com. Tickets C$15–C$35 (US$11–US$26) adults, C$13–C$25 (US$9.75–US$19) seniors and students. Tickets through Ticketmaster at & 604/280-4444.

At its home in the Orpheum Theatre during the fall, winter, and spring, Vancouver’s active orchestra presents the “Masterworks” series of great classical works; “Casual Classics,” featuring light classics from a single area or composer and a casually dressed orchestra; “Tea & Trumpets,” highlighting modern classics and ethnic works; “Symphony Pops,” selections of popular and show tunes; and “Kid’s Koncerts,” a series geared toward school-age children. The traveling summer concert series takes the orchestra from White Rock and Cloverdale on the U.S. border to the tops of Whistler and Blackcomb mountains. The box office is open Monday through Friday 1 to 5pm. On the day of the performance, the box office is open from 6pm until show time. 601

Vancouver Symphony

Smithe St. & 604/876-3434 for ticket information. www.vancouversymphony.ca. Tickets C$22–C$60 (US$17–US$45) adults. Senior and student discounts available.

DANCE The new Scotiabank Dance Centre (677 Davie St.) provides a new focal point for the Vancouver dance community. Renovated by Arthur Erickson, the former bank building now offers studio and rehearsal space to more than 30 dance companies and is open to the general public for events, workshops, and classes. For more information, call & 604/606-6400 or check www.vkool.com/dancentre. For fans of modern and new dance, the time to be here is early July, when the Dancing on the Edge Festival (& 604/689-0691; www.dancingontheedge.org) presents 60 to 80 original pieces over a 10-day period. For more information about other festivals and dance companies around the city, call the Dance Centre at & 604/ 606-6400. Ballet British Columbia Just over 16 years old, this company strives to present innovative works, such as those by choreographers

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John Cranko and William Forsythe, along with more traditional fare, including productions by visiting companies, such as the American Ballet Theatre, the Royal Winnipeg Ballet, and the Moscow Classical Ballet. Performances are usually at the Queen Elizabeth Theatre, at 600 Hamilton St. 1101 W. Broadway. & 604/7325003. www.balletbc.com. Tickets C$23–C$47 (US$17–US$35) adults. Senior and student discounts available.

2 Laughter & Music COMEDY CLUB/IMPROV SHOW Vancouver TheatreSports League Part comedy, part theater, and partly a take-no-prisoner’s test of an actor’s ability to think extemporaneously, TheatreSports involves actors taking suggestions from the audience and spinning them into short skits or full plays, often with hilarious results. Since moving to the Arts Club Stage, Vancouver’s TheatreSports leaguers have had to rein in their normally raunchy instincts for the more family-friendly audience— except, that is, for Friday and Saturday at 11:45pm, when the Red-Hot Improv show takes the audience into the R-rated realm. Shows are Wednesday and Thursday at 7:30pm and Friday and Saturday at 8, 10, and 11:45pm. New Revue Stage, Granville Island. & 604/6871644. www.vtsl.com. Tickets C$10–C$16 (US$7.50–US$12).

STRICTLY LIVE Besides the listings below, every June the Vancouver International Jazz Festival (& 604/872-5200; www.jazzvancouver.com) takes over many venues and outdoor stages around town. The festival includes a number of free concerts. The Vancouver Folk Festival (& 800/986-8363 or 604/6029798; www.thefestival.bc.ca) is one of the big ones on the West Coast. The extended weekend of music takes place outdoors in July on the beach at Jericho Park. The Brickyard Once the city’s most consistently innovative small venue for touring indie bands, The Brickyard had slipped a little in recent years but is now back to featuring cutting-edge indie bands 4 nights a week (Wed–Sat). (Note: Pigeon Park—Vancouver’s notorious open-air drug bazaar—is located a half-block away. It’s not pretty, but there’s no danger of drive-bys or other random violence. On the other hand, the grubby guys mouthing “rock, rock” aren’t talking about the kind that goes with “roll.”) 315 Carrall St. & 604/ 685-3922. Cover C$5–C$15 (US$3.75–US$11) depending on the band.

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Jazz has a loose definition on the West Coast. In this dark downstairs Kitsilano boîte, the live sounds stretch to include funk, fusion, jazz, and occasionally even hip-hop. Local jazz aficionados swear by this place. 3611 W. Broadway.

Cellar Restaurant and Jazz Club

& 604/738-1959. www.cellarjazz.com. Cover C$3–C$15 (US$2.25–US$11). Every town should have one, but sadly very few do: a huge old-time dance hall, complete with a suspended hardwood dance floor that bounces gently up and down beneath your nimble or less-than-nimble toes. And though the room and floor date back to the jazz age, the lineup nowadays includes many of the best modern bands coming through town. Sightlines are excellent. Indeed, The Commodore is one of the best places to catch a midsize band—and thanks to a recent renovation, the room looks better than ever. 868 Granville St. & 604/739-7469. www.

The Commodore Ballroom

commodoreballroom.com. Tickets C$5–C$50 (US$3.75–US$38).

Piccadilly Pub A downtown watering hole inhabited largely by lusting and inebriated university students, the Pic serves as a 7nights-a-week live stage for the sort of bands drunken, lusting college kids like to hear. 620 W. Pender St. & 604/682-3221. Cover C$5–C$15 (US$3.75–US$11) depending on the band.

Some clubs DJ to survive, some have bands; the Onion serves up both, all for the same cover. The Club room is a dance floor pure and simple. Down the hall and round a left turn is the Lounge, where the house band squeals out funky danceable jazz for a slightly older crowd 3 nights a week. During the Jazz Festival, this place hops. 15 Water St. & 604/602-9442. www.purpleonion.com.

The Purple Onion

Cover C$5–C$8 (US$3.75–US$6).

Live bands play every day of the week in this casual club, which also features show-off bartenders with Tom Cruise Cocktail-style moves. The house bands Joe’s Garage and Dr. Strangelove keep The Roxy packed, and on weekends, the lines are long. Theme parties (often with vacation giveaways), Extreme Karaoke, Canadian content, ’80s only, and other events add to the entertainment. 932 Granville St. & 604/684-7699. www.roxyvan.com. Cover

The Roxy

C$4–C$12 (US$3–US$9).

Folk, folk, and more folk. In the far-off Finds reaches of East Vancouver (okay, Commercial Dr. area), The WISE Club was unplugged long before MTV ever thought of reaching for the power cord. Bands are local and international, and the room’s a lot of fun—like a church basement or community center with alcohol.

The WISE Club

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1882 Adanac St. & 604/254-5858. Cover depends on show; C$15 (US$11) for most bands.

Yale Hotel This century-old tavern on the far south end of Granville is Vancouver’s one and only home of the blues. Visiting heavyweights have included Koko Taylor, Stevie Ray Vaughan, Junior Wells, and Jeff Healey. The pictures in the entryway are a who’s who of the blues. When outside talent’s not available, the Yale makes do with what’s homegrown, including Long John Baldry and local bluesman Jim Byrne. There are shows Monday through Saturday at 9:30pm. On Saturday and Sunday, there is an open-stage blues jam from 3 to 7pm. 1300 Granville St. & 604/681-9253. www.the yale.ca. Cover Thurs–Sat C$3–C$15 (US$2.25–US$11).

3 Bars, Pubs & Other Watering Holes Though Vancouver has loosened up a great deal in recent years, city policy has still concentrated pubs, clubs, and discos into two ghettos—er, entertainment zones—one along Granville Street and the other along Water and Pender streets in Gastown. There are pubs and clubs in other places to be sure, and many are listed below, but if you just want to wander out for a serendipitous pub crawl, the Granville or Water street strips make fine destinations. Speaking generally, Granville Street tends more to Top-40 discos and upscale lounges, while down in Gastown, it’s dark cellars spinning hip-hop and house.

BARS MASQUERADING AS RESTAURANTS One holdover from the bad old days of the liquor license drought is the relatively large number of restaurants that look suspiciously like pubs. You can order food in these places. Indeed, it used to be a condition of drinking (wink, wink). But most patrons stick to a liquid diet. The Alibi Room Higher-end, trendy restaurant/bar brought to you at least in part by X-Files’ Gillian Anderson, The Alibi Room offers upstairs diners modern cuisine and a chance to flip through shelves full of old film scripts. Monthly script readings provide a venue for ever-hopeful wannabe screenwriters (call for details). Downstairs there’s a DJ and dance floor. Located on the eastern edge of Gastown. 157 Alexander St. & 604/623-3383. www.alibiroom.com. The Atlantic Trap and Gill Regulars in this sea shanty of a pub know the words to every song sung by the Irish and East Coast bands that appear onstage most every night. Guinness and Keith’s

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are the brews of choice, and don’t worry too much about ordering food. As the song goes: “I’se the bye that orders the pint, I’se the bye that drinks her, keep your menus up in sight, and the government’s none the wiser.” Or something like that. 612 Davie St. & 604/806-6393. The Jupiter Cafe Finds Located just off busy Davie Street in the West End, The Jupiter Cafe combines a post-apocalyptic industrial look with lounge chic. Black ceilings, exposed pipes, and roof struts mix surprisingly well with chandeliers, velvet curtains, and plush chairs. More important, the Jupiter is open late (till 4am some nights). True, it can be a challenge to flag down your waiter, but that gives you more time to scope out the crowd: gay and straight, funky and preppy, casual and dressed to kill. A huge outdoor patio provides a pleasant refuge from the street, but on colder nights it’s the exclusive domain of die-hard smokers. The menu—burgers, pastas, and pizzas—is largely decorative. 1216 Bute St. & 604/609-6665. Monsoon Restaurant What this slim little bistro in the otherwise sleepy section of Main and Broadway does really well is beer and fusion-induced tapas, accompanied by a buzzing atmosphere generated by interesting and sometimes beautiful people. Kitchen open until 11pm on weekdays, later on weekends. 2526 Main St.

& 604/879-4001. Urban Well The taut and tanned from nearby Kits Beach drop into the Well as the sun goes down, and often don’t emerge until the next day. Monday and Tuesday there’s comedy; DJs keep things groovy the rest of the week. Regulars line up on the patio counter to people-watch, while inside there’s a tiny dance floor for demonstrating once again that you can get down in beach sandals. The second, downtown Well (888 Nelson; & 604/638-6070) entertains much a similar jock(ette) crowd, but with a large dance floor and disco ball. 1516 Yew St. & 604/737-7770. www.urbanwell.com.

ACTUAL BARS The Arts Club Backstage Lounge The Arts Club Lounge has a

fabulous location under the Granville Bridge by the water on the edge of False Creek. The crowd is a mix of tourists and art school students from neighboring Emily Carr College. Friday and Saturday, there’s a live band in the evenings. Most other times, if the sun’s out, the waterfront patio is packed. 1585 Johnston St., Granville Island. & 604/ 687-1354.

A bright, pleasant Irish pub in the dark heart of Gastown, the Heather boasts numerous nooks and crannies,

The Irish Heather

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some of the best beer in town, and a menu that does a lot with the traditional Emerald Isle spud. The clientele is from all over the map, including artsy types from the local gallery scene, urban pioneers from the new Gastown condos, and kids from Kitsilano looking for some safe but authentic grunge. 217 Carrall St. & 604/688-9779. The Lennox Pub Part of the renewal of Granville Street, this new pub fills a big void in the neighborhood; it’s a comfortable spot for a drink without having to deal with lines or ordering food. The beer list is extensive, containing such hard-to-find favorites as Belgian Kriek, Hoegaarden, and Leffe. There is a great selection of singlemalt scotches, too. The pub has a turn-of-the-20th-century feel with lots of brass, wood paneling, and a long bar. The menu covers all the pub-food basics. 800 Granville St. & 604/408-0881.

SPORTS BAR The Shark Club Bar and Grill The city’s premier sports bar, The Shark Club—in the Sandman Inn—features lots of wood and brass, TVs everywhere, and on weekend evenings, lots of young women who don’t look terribly interested in sports. Despite this—or because of it—weekend patrons often score. 180 W. Georgia St. & 604/687-4275. C$4–C$6 (US$3–US$4.50) Fri–Sat.

BARS WITH VIEWS On the water at the foot of Cardero Street, this Coal Harbour pub and restaurant offers an unmatched view of Stanley Park, the harbor, and the North Shore. Overhead heaters take away the chill when the sun goes down. 1583 Coal Harbour

Cardero’s Marine Pub

Quay. & 604/669-7666.

View junkies will think they’re in heaven. As this sleek hotel-top lounge rotates 6 degrees a minute, your vantage point circles from volcanic Mount Baker to the Fraser estuary to English Bay around Stanley Park to the towers of downtown, the harbor, and East Vancouver. And who knew you could get such a good martini in heaven? 1400 Robson St. (42nd floor of the Empire Landmark

Cloud Nine

Hotel). & 604/662-8328. Cover C$5 (US$3.75) Fri–Sat after 8:30pm.

The best waterside pub in the city, the Dockside is located in the Granville Island Hotel (reviewed in chapter 3) and looks out across False Creek to Yaletown and Burnaby Mountain far in the distance. The grub’s not up to much, but the beer is among the best in town—brewed-on-thepremises lagers, ales, and porters. There are overhead gas heaters for chillier evenings, but even so, it’s a good idea not to arrive too late:

The Dockside Brewing Company

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An hour or two after the sun goes down, the mostly 30-something patrons remember that now they have homes to go to. 1253 Johnson St. & 604/685-7070.

The Flying Beaver Bar Finds A West Coast tradition: Beaver and Cessna pilots pull up to the floating docks and step ashore to down a few in the floatplane pub. Located beneath the flyway of Vancouver International, the Beaver offers nonflyers great views of incoming jets, along with mountains, bush planes, river craft, and truly fine beer. 4760 Inglis Rd., Richmond. & 604/273-0278.

LOUNGES Intimate couches and a soft soundtrack (which gets cranked up as the evening wears on) make for candlelit foreplay to a meal at Glowbal Grill (p. 71); you can also stay in the low-slung loveseats for a long evening’s cuddle. 350 Davie St. & 604/642-0577. Bacchus Lounge Step into Bacchus and bask in the low light cast by the fireplace and tealights. This luxuriously comfy hot-spot in the tony Wedgewood Hotel stages a powerhouse cocktail hour for mostly well-to-do professionals, then becomes an irony-free piano bar. The pianist in the corner pounds out Neil Diamond, and the crowd of boomers and their children hum along. In the Wedgewood Afterglow

Hotel, 845 Hornby St. & 604/608-5319. www.wedgewoodhotel.com.

A funky Spanish Revival building with a seedy past as a bordello, Balthazar’s offers martinis, wine, and tapas till the wee hours (2am), plus two small dance floors each with its own DJ. One spins house, the other roams all over. The crowd in this West End lounge is a little older and dresses the part. 1215 Bidwell St. (at Davie St.).

Balthazar

& 604/689-8822. Super-trendy Ian Schrager-ish decor—the designer apparently wanted to include a chair design from every historical period— has helped the Elixir lounge in the cool Opus Hotel become the Yaletown hotspot for a pre-dinner martini or an extended evening schmooze. In the Opus Hotel, 50 Davie St. & 604/642-0577. www.elixir-

Elixir

opusbar.com.

Ginger Sixty-Two, with its funky warehousechic look, is the new darling of trendy Granville St. A mix of lounge, restaurant, and club, it attracts plenty of fashion-industry types, who lay back on strategically-placed pillows and crash pads. 1219

Ginger Sixty-Two

Granville St. & 604/688-5494.

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BREWPUBS In this category don’t forget The Dockside Brewing Company (1253 Johnson St.; & 604/685-7070), in the Granville Island Hotel: It’s listed under “Bars with Views,” above. Steamworks Pub & Brewery Winding your way from room to room in this Gastown brewery is almost as much fun as drinking. Upstairs, by the doors, it’s a London city pub where stockbrokers ogle every new female entrant. Farther in by the staircase, it’s a refined old-world club, with wood paneling, leather chairs, and great glass windows overlooking the harbor. Down in the basement, it’s a Bavarian drinking hall with long lines of benches, set up parallel to the enormous copper vats. Fortunately, the beer’s good. Choose from a dozen in-house beers. 375 Water St. & 604/689-2739. www.steamworks.com.

Remember, if it’s raining at 11:30am on a Thursday, all pints of brewed-on-the-premises beer are C$3.75 (US$2.80) for the rest of the day. The excellent beer is complemented by an extremely cozy room, a great summertime patio, and a good appetizer menu. Resist the urge to stay for supper, however: Snacks are the true forte. Sunday, all pizzas are half price.

Yaletown Brewing Company

1111 Mainland St. & 604/681-2739.

4 Dance Clubs Generally clubs are open until 2am every day but Sunday, when they close at midnight. In the summer months (mid-June through Labour Day), opening hours are extended to 4am. Au Bar An address is unnecessary for Au Bar; the long Seymour Street line of those not-quite-beautiful-enough for expedited entry immediately gives it away. Inside, this newest of downtown bars is packed with beautiful people milling from bar to dance floor to bar (there are two) and back again. Observing them is like watching a nature documentary on the Discovery Channel: Doelike women prance and jiggle while predatory men roam in packs, flexing pecs and biceps. To maintain some form of natural order, black-clad bouncers scan the room like game wardens, searching the horizon for trouble in paradise. 674 Seymour St. & 604/648-2227. www.aubarnight club.com. Cover C$5–C$8 (US$3.75–US$6).

The Caprice Upstairs, it’s The Lounge, with dark wood, a fireplace, a big-screen TV showing old Audrey Hepburn movies, and

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roll-top doors opening on a Granville Street patio. Downstairs, it’s The Nightclub—a large room with a funky semicircular glowing blue bar, big comfy wall banquettes, a secluded circular passion pit in one corner, and a medium-size dance floor. Earlier in the week the DJ spins house, but on weekends, when the older, richer 25and-overs come out to play, the cover goes up and the DJ retreats to the safety of Top 40. 965 Granville St. & 604/685-3189. Cover Tues–Thurs C$6 (US$4.50); Fri–Sat C$10 (US$7.50).

The Cellar inhabits that netherworld between dance club, bar, meat market, and personals listing. Dance club characteristics include a cover charge, smallish dance floor, and a DJ, who mostly spins Top 40. But Cellar patrons are far less interested in groovin’ than they are in meetin’ other Cellar dwellers, a process facilitated by a wall length message board upon which pickup lines are posted. When not angsting over pickup notes, Cellar dwellers drink. 1006 Granville St. & 604/605-4350. Cover C$5–C$8 (US$3.75–US$6). Crush Wine snobs will feel right at home at the Crush Champagne Lounge; unique for a dance club, this venue has a professional sommelier on staff to help you make your wine selection. The drink list also includes a large selection of sexy champagne cocktails and by-the-glass bubblies. The lounge has a small dance floor and the music is mellow R&B, soul, classic lounge, and jazz. Now it may just be the fancy drinks, but this crowd likes to dress up for the occasion; no fleece or Gore-Tex in sight. 1180 Granville St. & 604/684-0355. The Cellar

Cover C$5 (US$3.75).

The Drink This is a vast basement warren with two bars, numerous intimate cubbyholes, and a DJ that does progressive house and hiphop. And if that weren’t enough, there’s also a pool. 398 Richards St.

& 604/687-1307. Cover C$5 (US$3.75) weeknights; C$10 weekends (US$7.50). Loft Six Newcomer Loft Six is a curious mix of contradictions. The upstairs space has open windows with a great view of Gastown’s Maple Tree Square, but inside, the 20- to 30-something crowd is mostly interested in each other. Here, tattoos are more common than underwear, yet piercings are next to nonexistent. Denim is not only allowed but also seemingly de rigueur. And music is a kind of house-inflected world beat (think Hindi with heavy bass) but patrons are by and large lily white. 6 Powell St. & 604/688-6440. Cover C$5–C$10 (US$3.75–US$7.50).

Dick’s on Dicks has been packing ’em in longer than you’d care to know. What’s the attraction? For years, the Richard’s on Richards

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club was a notorious pickup spot. Things have mellowed since then, but as the line of limos out front on busy nights attests, Dick’s is still hot. Inside there are two floors, four bars, a laser light system, and lots of DJ’ed dance tunes and concerts. Live music acts have included the likes of Junior Wells, James Brown, and Jack Soul. 1036 Richards St. & 604/687-6794. www.richardsonrichards.com. Cover Fri–Sat C$8 (US$6) for the club; concerts C$10–C$30 (US$7.50–US$23).

Loud bass. Flashing lights. The endlessly thrumming rhythms of house. It’s a combination that really works best with the aid of psychedelic substances with four-letter initials. Of course, the Sonar crowd of ravers-on-holiday already know that. 66 Water St. & 604/

Sonar

683-6695. www.sonar.bc.ca. Cover varies C$5–C$10 (US$3.75–US$7.50) and up to C$20 (US$15) for special events.

Tonic Squeeze past the well-endowed door bunnies and you’re in a narrow room with a soaring ceiling, oversize paintings of hard liquor bottles, and an impressive-looking disco ball. The crowd is post-university but as yet unmated. Music is Latin, Brazilian, and Top-40 mix on weekends. On nights when it’s packed, the sweat evaporates from dancers and rises high into the vast ceiling where it falls as smoke-machine fog. Or that’s one theory anyway. 919 Granville St. & 604/669-0469. Cover C$6–C$10 (US$4.50–US$7.50).

Voda has quickly made a name for itself, attracting folks young, old, and in-between, with the only real common denominator being cash. The intriguing interior boasts a mix of waterfalls, rocks, and raw concrete—like a beautiful piece of 1950s Modernism. The small dance floor basks in the warm light from the hundreds of candles everywhere. Monday night is oldfashioned R&B and funk, Tuesday is reserved for bands playing Latin or reggae, Thursday nights are martini-elegant and a mix of DJs, and bands fill out the rest of the week with lots of hip-hop and R&B. In The Westin Grand Hotel, 783 Homer St. & 604/684-3003. Cover C$5–

Voda Nightclub

C$8 (US$3.75–US$6).

5 Gay & Lesbian Bars Vancouver is so laid-back and attitude-free that it’s often hard to tell straight from gay. Many clubs feature theme nights and dance parties, drag shows are ever popular, and every year in early August, as Gay Pride nears, the scene goes into overdrive. The Gay Lesbian Transgendered Bisexual Community Centre, 2–1170 Bute St. (& 604/684-5307; www.lgtbcentrevancouver.com), has information

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on the current hot spots, but it’s probably easier just to pick up a free copy of Xtra West!, available in most downtown cafes. The Dufferin Pub Buff at the Duff is a city institution; other drag shows might be raunchier, but none have quite the style. Shows are Monday through Thursday. Friday and Sunday, the go-go boys strut their stuff (and yes, they do take it all off). The rest of the time—and before, during, and after many of the shows—the DJs keep you grooving. 900 Seymour St. & 604/683-4251. www.dufferinhotel.com. The Fountain Head Pub Where do you go when you’ve run rings round the bathhouse and the disco ball no longer beckons? Reflecting the graying and—gasp!—mellowing of Vancouver’s boomer-age gay crowd, the hottest new hangout for gays is, well, a pub, The Fountain Head, located in the heart of the city’s gay ghetto on Davie Street. The Head offers excellent microbrewed draught, good pub munchies, and a pleasant humming atmosphere till the morning’s wee hours. Cruising has been known to happen, but more often customers come with friends and have things other than intimacy in mind: Most of the bragging at the Head involves the size of people’s portfolios. 1025 Davie St. & 604/687-2222. Heritage House Hotel Once among the most disreputable of Gastown gay bars, this aging beauty of a downtown hotel was given a total face-lift. It’s now home to three separate bars and lounges, all with a largely gay clientele. Downstairs, the Lotus Lounge is one of the hottest house music venues in town, particularly on Straight Up Fridays when the all-female DJ team spins sexy funky house. On Saturdays, clubbers gather for the deep underground house also referred to as West Coast house. On the main floor, the Milk Lounge has a popular gay following; men flock to Friday’s Cream night and on Saturdays, it’s Ladies Only. The third venue also on the main floor is Honey, a comfortable lounge where a mixed crowd gathers for cocktails or beers. On most nights, the DJs keep the music on a mellow, conversational level. However, on Saturdays, decibels go up significantly when the Queen Bee review, a New York–style cabaret drag show fills the house. 455 Abbott St. & 604/6857777. Cover Milk and Lotus C$5–C$12 (US$3.75–US$9) some nights, Honey only on Sat C$7 (US$5.25).

Numbers Cabaret A multilevel dance club and bar, Numbers has been around for over 20 years and hasn’t changed a bit. Extroverts hog the dance floor while admirers look on from the bar above. On the second floor, carpets, wood paneling, pool tables, darts, and

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a lower volume of music give it a neighborhood-pub feel. 1042 Davie St. & 604/685-4077. Cover Fri–Sat C$3 (US$2.25).

The Odyssey Odyssey is the hottest and hippest gay/mixed dance bar in town (alley entrance is for men; women go in by the front door). The medium-size dance space is packed. Up above, a mirrored catwalk is reserved for those who can keep the beat. Shows vary depending on the night. Monday it’s Sissy Boy, Saturday it’s Fallen Angel go-go dancers, and Sunday it’s the Feather Boa drag show. And on Thursday, it’s “Shower Power”—yes, that is a pair of naked men in the shower above the dance floor. 1251 Howe St.

& 604/689-5256. www.theodysseynightclub.com. Cover C$3–C$5 (US$2.25– US$3.75). Wed no cover. 6 Other Diversions CINEMA Attendance at the Vancouver International Film Festival (& 604/ 685-0260; www.viff.org) reaches over 100,000, not including the celebs who regularly drop in. At this highly respected October event, over 250 new films are shown, representing filmmakers from 40 countries. Asian films are particularly well represented. A R T H O U S E & R E P E R T O R Y T H E AT E R S

Since 1972, the Pacific Cinematheque, 1131 Howe St. (& 604/ 688-FILM; www.cinematheque.bc.ca), has featured classic and contemporary films from around the world. Screenings are organized into themes, such as “Jean Luc Godard’s Early Efforts,” film noir, or the “Hong Kong Action Flick: A Retrospective.” Schedules are available in hipper cafes, record shops, and video stores around town. Admission is C$7.50 (US$5.75) for adults, C$6 (US$4.50) for seniors and students; double features cost C$1 (US75¢) extra. Annual membership, required to purchase tickets, is C$3 (US$2.25). S P E C I A LT Y T H E AT E R S

At the CN IMAX, Canada Place (& 604/682-IMAX), a gargantuan screen features large-format flicks about denizens of the animal kingdom (sharks, wolves, elephants, X-treme athletes). A similar large screen at the Alcan OMNIMAX, Science World (& 604/4437443), features flicks about empty, wide-open spaces, colorful coral reefs, and the like. Way off in the strip-mall lands of farthest Kingsway stands the Raja, 3215 Kingsway (& 604/436-1545), a modest single-screen

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movie house dedicated to bringing in the best flicks from Bombay, the world’s moviemaking capital. For those unfamiliar with the Indian masala genre, expect raw violence mixed with big production numbers—think Mary Poppins does Die Hard. Sometimes there are English subtitles, though strictly speaking they’re not necessary. If Kingsway is too far off, there’s another Raja on 639 Commercial Dr. (& 604/253-0402).

CASINOS It ain’t Vegas, but you can try your luck at the Great Canadian Casino Downtown, 1133 W. Hastings St. (& 604/682-8415), open daily from noon to 4am. For blackjack, roulette, pai gow poker, and mini-baccarat, you can also try the Royal Diamond Casino, 750 Pacific Blvd., in the Plaza of Nations (& 604/8991061; www.rdc.com). Here you can play high roller from noon to 4am daily.

Index See also Accommodations and Restaurant indexes, below.

GENERAL INDEX A bbottsford International Air Show, 12 Accommodations, 36–63. See also Accommodations Index Afterglow, 168 Airlines, 16–17 Airport, 16–18 Airport security, 17 Air tours, 124 AJ Brooks, 155 Al’Arte Silk, 107 Alcan Dragon Boat Festival, 10 Alcan OMNIMAX, 173 Altus Mountain Gear, 155 Ambleside Park, 127 Amtrak, 18 Annual Bald Eagle Count, 8 Anthropology, Museum of, 109–110, 149–150 Antiques, 142–143 Aquarium, Vancouver, 102, 104, 118 Aquatic Centre, UBC’s, 136 Architectural walking tours, 125–126 Art galleries, 151 The Arts Club Backstage Lounge, 166 Arts Club Theatre, 107, 159 Asia West, 142 ATMs, 6–7 Au Bar, 169 Auto racing, 139

B acchus Lounge, 168 Baisakhi Day Parade, 9 Bakers Dozen Antiques, 142 Bald eagles, 8, 130, 137, 138 Ballet British Columbia, 162–163 Balthazar, 168 Bard on the Beach Shakespeare Festival, 10, 159 Bars and pubs, 165–169 gay and lesbian, 171–173

Baxter Aviation Adventure Tours, 124 The Bay (Hudson’s Bay Company), 145–146 BC Lions, 139 BC Museum of Mining, 121–122 BC Place Stadium, 139 Beaches, 126–127 Beaver Lake, 133 Bed-and-breakfasts (B&Bs), 36. See also Accommodations Index Biking and mountain biking, 31–32, 127–128 Bird-watching, 137 Blackberry Books, 143 Blackcomb Resort, 134 Black Tusk, 132 Bloedel Conservatory, 115 Boat festivals, 10, 13 Boating (boat rentals), 128–129 Boat tours, 13, 123–124 Bookstores, 143–144 Brewpubs, 169 The Brickyard, 163 Buddha Supply Centre, 151 Burnaby Mountain, 128 Burnaby Village Museum, 120 Buschlen Mowatt, 151 Business hours, 32 Bus tours, 122–123 Bus travel, 19, 30

C alendar of events, 8–14 Cameras, 144 Canada Day, 10–11 Canada Pass, 19 Canada Place, 20, 114 Canoeing, 129 Capilano River Regional Park, 116 Capilano Salmon Hatchery, 116 Capilano Suspension Bridge & Park, 112 The Caprice, 169–170

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Cardero’s Marine Pub, 167 Caribbean Days Festival, 12 Carol Ship Parade of Lights Festival, 14 Carr, Emily, 104 Car rentals, 31 Car travel, 19–20 Casinos, 174 The Cellar, 170 Cellar Restaurant and Jazz Club, 164 The Centre in Vancouver for Performing Arts, 159–160 Ceramics, 144 Chan Centre for the Performing Arts, 159 Chanel Boutique, 146–147 Chapters, 143 Children. See Families with children Children’s Farm (Stanley Park), 102, 118 Chinatown, 26–27 restaurants, 74–76 sights and attractions, 105–106 Chinatown Night Market, 153 Chinese goods, 145 Chinese New Year, 9 Chocolate Arts, 150 Christmas Craft and Gift Market, 14 Cigars and tobacco, 145 Cinemas, 173–174 Classical music, 161 Cleveland Dam, 116 Climate, 7–8 Cloud Nine, 167 Cloverdale Rodeo, 9 CN IMAX, 173 Coal Harbour, 113–114 Coastal Peoples Fine Arts Gallery, 148–149 Comedy club/improv show, 163 Comedy Festival, Vancouver International, 12 Commercial Drive, 28 The Commodore Ballroom, 164 Comor Sports, 156 Consulates, 33 Costen Catbalue, 152 Credit and debit cards, 7 Cruise ships, 20 Crush, 170 Currency, 6 Customs regulations, 3–5 Cypress Bowl, 135 Cypress Provincial Park, 116–117, 128

D ance clubs, 169–171 Dance performances, 162 Dancing on the Edge Festival, 11, 162 David Gordon, 154 Debit cards, 7 Deluxe Junk Co., 148 Dentists, 33 Department stores, 145–146 Diane Farris Gallery, 151 Disabilities, travelers with, 14–15 Discount shopping, 146 The Dockside Brewing Company, 167–169 Doctors, 33 Documents for Commonwealth citizens, 3 Dorothy Grant, 147 Downtown, 23 accommodations, 37–50 restaurants, 64–74 Dream 311, 147 The Drink, 170 Dr. Sun Yat-Sen Classical Chinese Garden, 105 Dr. Sun Yat-Sen Park, 115 The Dufferin Pub, 172 Dunne & Rundle foto source, 144 Duthie Books 4th Ave., 143 E arly Motion Tours, 124–125 The East Side, restaurants, 91–93 Ecomarine Kayak Marathon, 11 Ecomarine Ocean Kayak Centre, 107, 129 Ecotours, 130 Electricity, 33 Elixir, 168 Emergencies, 33 Emily Carr Institute, 107 English Bay, 113 English Bay Beach, 126, 138 Entry requirements, 2 Escents, 151 F alse Creek, 133 False Creek North, 27 Families with children, 10 information, 16, 23, 117–118 shopping, 146, 156 sights and attractions, 102, 117–122

GENERAL INDEX Fashions, 146–148 Ferries, 20–21 Festival d’Eté Francophone de Vancouver, 10 Festival of Lights, 14 Festivals and special events, 8–14 Festival Vancouver, 12 Film Festival, Vancouver International, 13, 173 Firehall Arts Centre, 160 First Nations, 10 art and crafts, 148–150 tours, 125 First Night, 14 Fishing, 130–131 The Flying Beaver Bar, 168 Food stores, 150–151 Football, 139 Forge & Form, 152 Fort Langley National Historic Site, 121 The Fountain Head Pub, 172 Francophone Summer Festival, 10 Frederic Wood Theatre, 160 The Fringe-Vancouver’s Theatre Festival, 160 Frommers.com, 21

G alleries, 151 Gallery of BC Ceramics, 144 The Games People, 156 Garibaldi Provincial Park, 132 Gastown, 26 restaurants, 74–76 sights and attractions, 105–106 Gay and lesbian travelers bars, 171–173 information and resources, 15, 23 Vancouver Pride Parade, 12 Gay Lesbian Transgendered Bisexual Community Centre, 171–172 General Motors Place, 139 George C. Reifel Sanctuary, 117, 138 The Georgia Straight, 22, 158 Gianni Versace Boutique, 147 Gifts and souvenirs, 151–152 Ginger Sixty-Two, 168 Goat Mountain, 132 Golf, 131 Good Samaritan Trail, 128 Granville Book Company, 143

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Granville Island, 27, 119 shopping, 142 sights and attractions, 106–108 Granville Island Museum, 107 Granville Island Public Market, 108, 153 Granville Island Sport Fishing Museum, 131 Gray Line of Vancouver, 122 Great Canadian Casino Downtown, 174 Greater Vancouver Zoo, 119–120 Great Outdoors Equipment, 155 Greyhound Bus Lines, 19 Grouse Grind, 132 Grouse Mountain, 132 Grouse Mountain Resort, 112–113, 128, 134–135

H arbour Air, 124 Harbour Cruises, 123 Harmony Arts Festival, 13 Harrison Festival of the Arts, 11 Hastings Park Racecourse, 139–140 Helijet Charters, 124 Heritage House Hotel, 172 Hiking, 116, 131–132 Hill’s Native Art, 149 Hills of Kerrisdale, 146 Hockey, 139 Holidays, 8 Hollyburn Mountain, 128 Horse-drawn carriage rides, 102, 118, 125 Horse racing, 139–140 Hospitals, 33 H.R. MacMillan Space Centre, 108–109 HSBC Celebration of Light, 12 I ce skating, 133 Ice Sports Centre, 133 Illuminares, 11 Images for a Canadian Heritage, 149 In-Again Clothing, 146 In-line skating, 133 International Children’s Festival, 10 International Travel Maps and Books, 143 Internet access, 33 Inuit Gallery of Vancouver, 149 The Irish Heather, 166–167 Isola Bella, 146

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J

azz, 10, 164 Jericho Beach, 127, 133, 138 Jewelry, 152 Joe’s Cafe, 96 Jogging, 133 John Fluevog Boots & Shoes, 155

K arl Stittgen and Goldsmiths, 152 Kayaking, 11, 107, 129 Khot-La-Cha Salish Handicrafts, 149 Kidsbooks, 144 Kids Market, 119, 156 Kites on Clouds, 156 Kitsilano, 27–28 Kitsilano Beach, 127, 133, 136 Kitsilano Beach Park, 136 Kitsilano Pool, 127 L a Casa del Habano, 145 Lattimer Gallery, 149 Legends Retro-Fashion, 148 The Lennox Pub, 167 Lens & Shutter, 144 Leone, 147 Library Square, 114 Lighthouse Park, 116 Liquor laws, 33–34 The Lobsterman, 150 Locarno Beach, 127 Loft Six, 170 Lonsdale Quay Market, 153 Lookout!, Harbour Centre Tower, 106 Lost Lagoon, 133 Lost Lagoon Nature House, 99, 102, 138 Lotus Land Tours, 130 Lounges, 168 Lush, 155 Lynn Canyon Park, 113 Lynn Canyon Suspension Bridge, 113 M agic Flute, 154 Malls and shopping centers, 152–153 Maplewood Farm, 119 Marathon, Vancouver International, 9, 140 Marion Scott Gallery, 149

Maritime Museum, Vancouver, 111, 118 The Market Kitchen Store, 155 Markets, 153–154 Marquis Wine Cellars, 157 Martha Sturdy Originals, 144 Mid-Autumn Moon Festival, 13 Mihrab, 142–143 Miniature Railway, 102, 118 Miniferries, 32 Molson Indy, 11, 139 Money matters, 6–7 Monte Clark Gallery, 151 Mountain Equipment Co-op, 126, 156 Mount Seymour Provincial Park, 117, 135 Movie houses, 173–174 Murchie’s Tea & Coffee, 150 Museum of Anthropology, 109–110, 149–150 Music festivals, 10–12, 163 Music stores, 154

N ational Aboriginal Day Community Celebration, 10 Neighborhoods, 23–29 New Play Festival, 9 Newspapers and magazines, 34 New Westminster Quay Public Market, 153–154 Nightlife, 158–174 Nitobe Memorial Garden, 110–111 The North Shore (North Vancouver & West Vancouver) accommodations, 61–63 restaurants, 93–95 The North Shore Heritage Weekend, 13 North Vancouver sights and attractions, 112–113 Numbers Cabaret, 172–173

O cean Floor, 151–152 The Odyssey, 173 Okanagan Estate Wine Cellar, 157 OnDeck, 154 Opera, 161 Orpheum Theatre, 158 Outdoor activities, 126–139

GENERAL INDEX

P

acific Boarder, 155 Pacific Central Station, 18–19 Pacific Centre Mall, 152 Pacific Cinematheque, 173 Pacific Coach Lines, 19 Pacific National Exhibition, 13 Pacific Spirit Regional Park (Endowment Lands), 116, 128, 138 Parade of Lost Souls, 14 Paragliding, 133–134 Park Royal Shopping Centre, 152 Parks and gardens, 114–117 Performance Works, 107 Performing arts, 158–163 Pharmacies, 34 Piccadilly Pub, 164 Playdium at Metrotown, 120 Playland Family Fun Park, 120 Plaza Escada, 147 Plazas and parks, 113–117 Please Mum, 146 Point Atkinson Lighthouse, 116 Point Grey Beach, 127 Polar Bear Swim, 8 Police, 34 Police Museum, 106 Polo/Ralph Lauren, 147 Post office, 34 Powell Street Festival, 12 Punjabi Market, 28–29, 142 The Purple Onion, 164

Q ueen Elizabeth Complex, 159 Queen Elizabeth Park, 115, 136 R ail Canada, 18 Raja, 173–174 The Raven and the Bear, 152 Remembrance Day, 14 Restaurants, 64–97. See also Restaurant Index Richard’s on Richards, 170–171 Richmond, 28 Robson Square, 114 Robson Street, shopping on, 141 Rockwood Adventures, 130 Roots Canada, 147 The Roxy, 164

179

Royal Diamond Casino, 174 Running, 140

S ailing, 134 Salmon, 11, 116, 150 Salmon Village, 150 Salvatore Ferragamo, 147 Science World British Columbia, 110, 118 Scotiabank Dance Centre, 162 SeaBus, 30 Sea-to-Sky Highway, 138 Seawall, Stanley Park, 99, 113, 128, 133 Second Beach, 102, 118, 126, 136 Second Suit for Men & Women, 146 Seniors, 15–16 Seymour, Mount, 128 The Shark Club Bar and Grill, 167 Shaughnessy, 28 Shoes, 154–155 Shopping, 141–157 Sights and attractions, 98–140 Silk Road Art Trading Co., 145 Sinclair Centre, 153 Skiing, 134–135 SkyRide gondola, 112 SkyTrain, 30 Snowboarding, 135 Snow Goose Festival, 117 Soccer, 140 Sonar, 171 South China Seas Trading Company, 151 South Granville, shopping, 141 Spanish Banks, 127, 133 Special events and festivals, 8–14 Spectator sports, 139–140 Splashdown Park, 121 Sporting goods, 155–156 Spray Park, 102, 118 Stanley Park, 99, 118, 125, 126, 136, 138 Starbucks, 96 Steamworks Pub & Brewery, 169 Steveston Salmon Festival, 11 Storyeum, 105 Students, 16 Sun Run, 140 Sunset Beach, 127

180

INDEX

Swimco, 147 Swimming, 118 Swimming pools, 118, 126, 136

T aiga, 155 T&T Supermarket, 145 Tapestry Vintage Clothing, 148 Taxes, 34–35 Taxis, 30–31 Telephone, 35 Tennis, 136–137 Ten Ren Tea & Ginseng Co., 145 Theater, 9, 10, 159–161 Theatre Under the Stars, 160 Third Beach, 102, 126 Three Dog Bakery, 155 Thriller, 155 Time zone, 35 Tipping, 35 Tonic, 171 Totem poles, 99, 109, 118, 149 Tourism Vancouver, 1 Tourism Vancouver Touristinfo Centre, 22 Tourist information, 1–2, 22–23 Tours, organized, 122–126 Toys, 156 Train travel, 18–19 Trans-Canada Highway 1, 19–20 Transportation, 29–32 Traveler’s checks, 6 Treetops Adventure, 112 True Value Vintage Clothing, 148 Tung Fong Hung Foods Co., 145 U BC Botanical Garden, 110–111 UBC Coast Club, 136 UBC Robson Square, 144 University of British Columbia School of Music, 161 Uno Langmann Limited, 143 V ancouver Antique Centre, 143 Vancouver Aquarium Marine Science Centre, 102, 104, 118 Vancouver Aquatic Centre, 136 Vancouver Art Gallery, 104, 114 Vancouver Bach Choir, 161 Vancouver Cantata Singers, 161–162

Vancouver Canucks, 139 Vancouver Centennial Police Museum, 106 Vancouver Centre, 153 Vancouver Chamber Choir, 162 Vancouver Cigar Company, 145 Vancouver East Cultural Centre, 159 Vancouver Flea Market, 154 Vancouver Folk Music Festival, 11, 163 Vancouver Fringe Festival, 13 Vancouver International Airport, 16–18 Vancouver International Comedy Festival, 12 Vancouver International Film Festival, 13, 173 Vancouver International Jazz Festival, 10, 163 Vancouver International Marathon, 9, 140 Vancouver International Writers and Readers Festival, 14 Vancouver Maritime Museum, 111, 118–119 Vancouver Museum, 111–112 Vancouver Natural History Society, 138 Vancouver Opera, 161 Vancouver Playhouse, 9, 160–161 Vancouver Pride Parade, 12 Vancouver’s Best Coffee, 96 Vancouver Sun Run, 9 Vancouver Symphony, 162 Vancouver TheatreSports League, 163 Vancouver Trolley Company, 118, 122 Vancouver Whitecaps, 140 VanDusen Botanical Gardens, 10, 115 Venus & Mars, 147 Virgin Megastore, 154 Visitor information, 1–2, 22–23 Voda Nightclub, 171

W alking tours, 125–126 Waterfront Theatre, 107 Water Park and Adventure Playground (Granville Island), 119 Water Street, shopping on, 141–142 West Beach, 155 West Coast City and Nature Sightseeing, 123 The West End, 26 accommodations, 50–57 restaurants, 77–83

R E S TA U R A N T I N D E X West End Community Centre, 133 The West Side accommodations, 57–61 restaurants, 83–91 sights and attractions, 106–112 West Vancouver attractions, 112–113 Whale-watching, 137 Wheelchair accessibility, 14–15 Whistler Paragliding, 133 Whistler Resort, 134 White-water rafting, 137 Wildlife-watching, 137–138 Windsurfing, 138–139 Wines, 156–157 The WISE Club, 164–165 Wooden Boat Festival, 13 Wreck Beach, 127

Y ale Hotel, 165 Yaletown, 27 accommodations, 37–50 restaurants, 64–74 Yaletown Brewing Company, 169 YWCA Fitness Centre, 136 Z onda Nellis Design Ltd., 147–148 Zoo, Greater Vancouver, 119 Zulu Records, 154 ACCOMMODATIONS The Aston Rosellen Suites at Stanley Park, 53–54 Barclay House in the West End, 54 Beachside Bed & Breakfast, 62 Best Western Downtown Vancouver, 46 Blue Horizon, 54–55 Buchan Hotel, 56–57 Camelot Inn, 58–59 Coast Plaza Hotel & Suites, 55 Days Inn Downtown, 46 Delta Vancouver Suites, 37 The Fairmont Hotel Vancouver, 40 Four Seasons Hotel, 40–41 Georgian Court Hotel, 46–47 Granville Island Hotel, 58 Hostelling International Vancouver Downtown Hostel, 48 Hostelling International Vancouver Jericho Beach Hostel, 60–61

181

Howard Johnson Hotel, 48–49 Johnson Heritage House Bed & Breakfast, 59 Kenya Court Ocean Front Guest House, 59–60 The Kingston Hotel, 49 Le Soleil Hotel & Suites, 41 Listel Vancouver, 50–51 Lonsdale Quay Hotel, 62 Metropolitan Hotel Vancouver, 41–42 Opus Hotel, 42 Pacific Palisades Hotel, 51–52 Pan Pacific Hotel Vancouver, 42–43 Penny Farthing Inn, 60 Quality Hotel Downtown/The Inn at False Creek, 47 Ramada Inn and Suites, 49–50 Rosedale on Robson Suite Hotel, 47–48 Sheraton Vancouver Wall Centre Hotel, 43–44 Sunset Inn & Suites, 55–56 The Sutton Place Hotel, 44 Sylvia Hotel, 57 The University of British Columbia Conference Centre, 61 Vancouver Marriott Pinnacle Hotel, 52 Wedgewood Hotel, 44–45 West End Guest House, 56 Westin Bayshore Resort & Marina, 52–53 The Westin Grand, 45 YWCA Hotel/Residence, 50

RESTAURANTS The Alibi Room, 165 Amarcord, 68 Annapurna, 89–90 The Atlantic Trap and Gill, 165–166 Banana Leaf, 82 The Beach House at Dundarave Pier, 93 Bin 941 Tapas Parlour, 73 Bishop’s, 83 Bis Moreno, 68 Blue Water Café and Raw Bar, 68–69 Bukowski’s, 92 C, 64–65 Café Zen, 87 Caffè Artigiano, 95 The Cannery, 74–75 Cin Cin, 77

182

INDEX

Circolo, 69 Coast, 69 Death by Chocolate, 95 Delilah’s, 77 Diva at the Met, 65 Elixir, 70 Epicurean Delicatessen Caffè, 96 Feenie’s, 84 Fiddlehead Joe’s, 70–71 The Fish House in Stanley Park, 78 The Five Sails, 65, 68 Glowbal Grill and Satay Bar, 71 Gusto, 94 Gyoza King, 82 Hapa Izakaya, 80 Hart House Restaurant, 120 Hiwus Feast House, 113 Hot Dog Jonny’s, 82 Ichibankan, 80 Il Giardino di Umberto Ristorante, 71–72 Incendio, 76 Joe Fortes Seafood and Chop House, 72 The Jupiter Cafe, 166 La Bodega, 73 La Casa Gelato, 97 Le Gavroche, 78 The Locus Café, 92–93 Lumière, 84–86 Lumière Tasting Bar, 85–86 Mark’s Fiasco, 87–88

Memphis Blues Barbeque House, 88 Monsoon Restaurant, 166 The Naam Restaurant, 90 Old Spaghetti Factory, 76 Olympia Oyster & Fish Co. Ltd., 74 Park Lock Seafood Restaurant, 75 Phnom Penh Restaurant, 76 Pink Pearl, 75 Raincity Grill, 79 Rangoli, 90–91 The Reef, 93 Romano’s Macaroni Grill at the Mansion, 80–81 The Salmon House on the Hill, 94 Sami’s, 88 The SandBar, 88–89 Senses Bakery, 97 Sha-Lin Noodle House, 91 Simply Thai, 73–74 The Smoking Dog, 86 Sophie’s Cosmic Café, 91 Stephos, 83 Sun Sui Wah, 92 Tanpopo, 81 The Teahouse Restaurant, 79 Tojo’s Restaurant, 86 The Tomahawk Restaurant, 95 Urban Well, 166 Vij’s, 89 West, 86–87 Zin, 81–82

FROMMER’S® COMPLETE TRAVEL GUIDES Alaska Alaska Cruises & Ports of Call American Southwest Amsterdam Argentina & Chile Arizona Atlanta Australia Austria Bahamas Barcelona, Madrid & Seville Beijing Belgium, Holland & Luxembourg Bermuda Boston Brazil British Columbia & the Canadian Rockies Brussels & Bruges Budapest & the Best of Hungary Calgary California Canada Cancún, Cozumel & the Yucatán Cape Cod, Nantucket & Martha’s Vineyard Caribbean Caribbean Ports of Call Carolinas & Georgia Chicago China Colorado Costa Rica Cruises & Ports of Call Cuba Denmark Denver, Boulder & Colorado Springs England Europe Europe by Rail European Cruises & Ports of Call

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FROMMER’S® DOLLAR-A-DAY GUIDES Australia from $50 a Day California from $70 a Day England from $75 a Day Europe from $85 a Day Florida from $70 a Day Hawaii from $80 a Day

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Washington, D.C. from $80 a Day Portable London from $90 a Day Portable New York City from $90 a Day Portable Paris from $90 a Day

FROMMER’S® PORTABLE GUIDES Acapulco, Ixtapa & Zihuatanejo Amsterdam Aruba Australia’s Great Barrier Reef Bahamas Berlin Big Island of Hawaii Boston California Wine Country Cancún Cayman Islands Charleston Chicago Disneyland® Dominican Republic Dublin

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Grand Canyon National Parks of the American West Rocky Mountain

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FROMMER’S® IRREVERENT GUIDES Amsterdam Boston Chicago Las Vegas London

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THE UNOFFICIAL GUIDES® Beyond Disney California with Kids Central Italy Chicago Cruises Disneyland® England Florida Florida with Kids Inside Disney

SPECIAL-INTEREST TITLES Athens Past & Present Cities Ranked & Rated Frommer’s Best Day Trips from London Frommer's Best RV & Tent Campgrounds in the U.S.A. Frommer’s Caribbean Hideaways Frommer's China: The 50 Most Memorable Trips Frommer’s Exploring America by RV Frommer’s Gay & Lesbian Europe Frommer’s NYC Free & Dirt Cheap

Frommer’s Road Atlas Europe Frommer’s Road Atlas France Frommer’s Road Atlas Ireland Frommer's Wonderful Weekends from New York City The New York Times’ Guide to Unforgettable Weekends Retirement Places Rated Rome Past & Present

Travel Tip: He who finds the best hotel dea has more to spend on facials involving l knobbly vegetables. Hello, the Roaming Gnome here. I’ve been nabbed from the garden and taken round the world. The people who took me are so terribly clever. They find the best offerings on Travelocity. For very little cha-ching. And that means I get to be pampered and exfoliated till I’m pink as a bunny’s doodah.

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Travel Tip: Make sure there’s customer service for any change of plans- involving friendly natives, for example. One can plan and plan, but if you don’t book with the right people you can’t seize le moment and canoodle with the poodle named Pansy. I, for one, am all for fraternizing with the locals. Better yet, if I need to extend my stay and my gnome nappers are willing, it can all be arranged through the 800 number at, oh look, how convenient, the lovely company coat of arms.

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